V brake pad question

[Thornyone]

Yesterday I did what is possibly my least favourite regular bike maintenance job: replacing worn V brake cartridge pads. I always find it necessary to remove the brake calipers first. I find it difficult to remove the worn pad, and even harder to install the new pads. To do this I tend to slide the pad in as far as it will go (normally not far at all) and then push the caliper down vertically onto the pad, which is resting on the workbench. It always gets interesting when the little groove across the pad (for the retaining pin) tends to cause the pad to flex a bit and compromise its sliding cleanly into the shoe.

With one of the brake pads, I was unable to fit the retaining pin, despite the fact that I can clearly see light right through the holes it should fit through. It simply wont go in straight. So, given that the pads seem to fit very snugly and are always very difficult to remove, should I be concerned that one pad has no retaining pin, given that braking action presumably forces the pad further into the shoe?

Any tip on easy cartridge pad fitting would also be welcome

[pwa]

I know grease and brake pads is a combination to worry about, but I put a small amount of grease on the metal so the pad slides in a bit easier. It helps. Obviously I make sure the grease gets nowhere near the business end of the pad.

[pwa]

If applying the brake while going forward will push the pad further in, rather than out, as should be the case, the lack of the pin is not a worry.

[elPedro666]

If applying the brake while going forward will push the pad further in, rather than out, as should be the case, the lack of the pin is not a worry.

Double check that is the case though! Even so, I have had pads slide out backwards while sitting on the stationary bike so it's worth trying again.

Once you've applied the brake a few times, the pad might be shoved far enough in that the pin will fit...

I'm a trendy consumer. Just look at my wobbly using hovercraft full of eels.

[Brucey]

I use a little spittle to help fitment of tight inserts. Soapy water will work too. Unlike grease neither will hurt rubber, and neither will linger where it can cause troubles. Don't use grease.

Tip; if the insert has grooves in, use the edge of spanner (or something) in a groove to help drag the insert into the holder. If you can, engage with several grooves at once. Pulling works differently (better) than pushing.

NB inserts (like a lot of rubber mouldings) tend to shrink over time. I've had some in use and some sat on the shelf for a year or two and both became loose in the holders despite being tight and difficult to fit originally. They were so loose that simply standing the bike on the rear wheel with the pins out would have meant that all four inserts would have dropped out. This means it is incredibly dangerous to run around without the pins through the holders; the inserts will likely become so loose they can just drop out even if they were tight to start with.

If necessary you can use a piece of stiff wire through the hole and help ease the fit on the pin. IIRC the centre section of an old DB spoke may fit. Last resort is to run a suitably sized drill through the hole and reshape the gap in the insert. Some inserts have moulding flash in the pin slot; these should be fettled before fitting.

cheers

[Thornyone]

Thanks for the tips. I’m assuming that the forward motion of the wheel at the top (where the brakes are mounted) tends to ‘grab’ at the brake block and effectively tend to drag it forwards, and that the forward direction of insertion into the shoe takes this fact into account. I must say that I have never had an issue with shrinkage or looseness, possibly because I don’t tend to have the pads fitted for long before they need replacing, and when (on a very odd occasion) a pad has felt slightly loose on fitting (and I have fortunately managed to fit a pin) the braking action seems to cause it to become a snug fit. I will, however, have another go at fitting a pin. I always like belt and braces

[MikeF]

I use a little spittle to help fitment of tight inserts. Soapy water will work too. Unlike grease neither will hurt rubber, and neither will linger where it can cause troubles. Don't use grease.

Rubber grease will also work and shouldn't affect the rubber.

[Gattonero]

Yesterday I did what is possibly my least favourite regular bike maintenance job: replacing worn V brake cartridge pads. I always find it necessary to remove the brake calipers first. I find it difficult to remove the worn pad, and even harder to install the new pads. To do this I tend to slide the pad in as far as it will go (normally not far at all) and then push the caliper down vertically onto the pad, which is resting on the workbench. It always gets interesting when the little groove across the pad (for the retaining pin) tends to cause the pad to flex a bit and compromise its sliding cleanly into the shoe.

With one of the brake pads, I was unable to fit the retaining pin, despite the fact that I can clearly see light right through the holes it should fit through. It simply wont go in straight. So, given that the pads seem to fit very snugly and are always very difficult to remove, should I be concerned that one pad has no retaining pin, given that braking action presumably forces the pad further into the shoe?

Any tip on easy cartridge pad fitting would also be welcome

Use methylated spirit to remove and fit the pads, helps a lot!

Before fitting the new pads, use a small square or rectangular file to get the groove for the pin all clean.
When the pads are on, use a "podger" like a peper-clip, a sefety pin or an old 15G spoke to align the groove in the pad with the holes in the holder, then use a set of small pliers and that's it