Don't usually do Shimano, so applied my usual technique of doing the lockring up "good and tight", and the free wheel stopped working!
Have loosened it off and the freewheel seems to freeze around finger tight + 1/2 turn. What causes this, and is there a method I'm missing? Never had this with a Campag cassette. Is finger+1/2turn tight enough or will the thing fall apart under riding conditions? Bruce?
Tightening Shimano Cassette lockring
Re: Tightening Shimano Cassette lockring
Hi
40Nm, tight, but not as much as you might imagine:)
Regards
tim-b
40Nm, tight, but not as much as you might imagine:)
Regards
tim-b
~~~~¯\(ツ)/¯~~~~
Re: Tightening Shimano Cassette lockring
what hub and cassette model are you using, exactly?
cheers
cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: Tightening Shimano Cassette lockring
BigFoz wrote:Don't usually do Shimano, so applied my usual technique of doing the lockring up "good and tight", and the free wheel stopped working
Doesn't sound right at all. Good and tight should only push the cogs and spacers together (until the spacers crush?). If the freewheeling action is affected then the freehub part must be broken in some way such that allows the moving part to touch the hub shell.
Re: Tightening Shimano Cassette lockring
Brucey wrote:what hub and cassette model are you using, exactly?
cheers
the reason for asking this is that if the wrong combination is used, then you can get all kinds of weird things happening, eg
-sprockets hitting the spoke protector disc or pushing it into the spokes
- lockring going further into the hub than normal, causing binding (eg by pushing the seal too far into the hub, or by the lockring fouling on the axle seals directly)
cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: Tightening Shimano Cassette lockring
You might find that the leading edge of the lockring is bottoming out against a component on the axle, like a dustcover. So, if you use a lockring of shallower depth it wouldn't happen.
I should coco.
Re: Tightening Shimano Cassette lockring
Are you missing a spacer - so the lock ring screws in too far and fouls the mechanism? EG 10 speed cassette on 11 speed hub?
Re: Tightening Shimano Cassette lockring
BigFoz wrote:Don't usually do Shimano, so applied my usual technique of doing the lockring up "good and tight", and the free wheel stopped working!
Have loosened it off and the freewheel seems to freeze around finger tight + 1/2 turn. What causes this, and is there a method I'm missing? Never had this with a Campag cassette. Is finger+1/2turn tight enough or will the thing fall apart under riding conditions? Bruce?
I've used Shimano freehubs since they first came out and I've never known that to happen. Something unusual is going on.
Re: Tightening Shimano Cassette lockring
I've no idea what hub / cassette - it's a seven speed. (Had to get the Sora 8speed working with this as the reason it came across was that it strangely chucked its chain going into gear #8.) Owner can't afford new 8 speed wheel. I guess it's possible someone has previously slapped 7 sprockets onto an 8, and that would explain the tightening and locking issue. I know next to nothing about what goes with what on Shimano - last time I had Shimano it was 600 range!
Next time I have the bike over, I'll check it and reply - so far the finger + 1/2 turn is working with no issues, I took it out with a bagful of tools, did about 30 miles, worked perfectly, owner has since done a bunch of riding without issues, but I want it back to check a few things anyway - one of the spokes in the rear wheel was very iffy, big kink in it, but I didn't have a same length one at the time, so am intending to pull it, and get a a right length spoke, and retrue
Next time I have the bike over, I'll check it and reply - so far the finger + 1/2 turn is working with no issues, I took it out with a bagful of tools, did about 30 miles, worked perfectly, owner has since done a bunch of riding without issues, but I want it back to check a few things anyway - one of the spokes in the rear wheel was very iffy, big kink in it, but I didn't have a same length one at the time, so am intending to pull it, and get a a right length spoke, and retrue