How to attach Shimano derailluer

[maddrock]

I decided to change my chain, gear shifter and rear derailluer. However I failed a bit by not noting down what screws and bolts attached what
I have a Bobbin metropole bike and I am at a loss on how to attach my new derailluer...
Here is a picture of the derailluer and the bolts and pieces left over. I know the bolt on the right and the washer on the left are to secure the wheel as they do on the other side.


If anyone could give me any guidance on what goes where I'd be very grateful so i can get the chain on and ride!

[gaz]

Welcome to the forum.

Your bike has no derailleur hanger on the rear drop out. From the picture of the bike in your link this was attached to the old derailleur, possibly permanently and certainly the length of the hanger will have been optimised for the old derailleur. I'd doubt that it can be salvaged.

Some new derailleurs come with hangers, most without. In this link it is described as an adapter. I can't quite tell from the angle of your pic but I suspect your new derailleur has no hanger.

There are a bewildering array of derailleur hangers, you'll need one like this.

[gaz]

Incidentally the bits highlighted appear to be a spacer and lock nut unnecessarily removed from the axle. This could be problematic as the right hand bearing cone, spacer and locknut are best left factory tight.

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To fit these properly you will need to remove the freewheel and hold the right hand bearing cone whilst you tighten the lock nut. If the setting of the hub bearings has not already been disturbed it is likely that this process will do so. The bearings will need adjustment, best done from the bearing cone on the left hand side.

The task will require specialist tools (freewheel remover and cone spanner). Bearings need careful adjustment. If you are not familiar with these jobs seek further guidance or take things to a local bike shop for help.

[Brucey]

you can set the RH cone and locknut against one another tightly (as the they should be) without removing the freewheel, provided you withdraw the axle from the hub by about 30mm e.g. by first by removing the LH cone and locknut. This will spare you one tool purchase at least, but you will still need to buy cone spanners.

As Gaz says you appear to need a gear hanger and an M5 screw to go through it and mate with the 'D' shaped nut. Sometimes the parts come together like this



cheers

[maddrock]

you can set the RH cone and locknut against one another tightly (as the they should be) without removing the freewheel, provided you withdraw the axle from the hub by about 30mm e.g. by first by removing the LH cone and locknut. This will spare you one tool purchase at least, but you will still need to buy cone spanners.

As Gaz says you appear to need a gear hanger and an M5 screw to go through it and mate with the 'D' shaped nut. Sometimes the parts come together like this



cheers

Thank you this helped! The spacer and nut are back, they were removed unnecessarily. I've put them back where they belong.

I think what I've done, is chucked the hanger away when I chucked the old worn out derailleur...like an idiot. So that explains the lonely D nut (I did find the screw for it as well!). I will buy a new hanger and hopefully that will be the end of it!

Thank you everyone

[Brucey]

sometimes the hanger is riveted to the derailleur so it is easy to dispose of it and even if you hadn't it might not be any use to you.

cheers

[mattsccm]

Try a shops scrap bin for the hanger.bet there is a pile there.

[gregoryoftours]

you can set the RH cone and locknut against one another tightly (as the they should be) without removing the freewheel, provided you withdraw the axle from the hub by about 30mm e.g. by first by removing the LH cone and locknut.

Thank you this helped! The spacer and nut are back, they were removed unnecessarily. I've put them back where they belong.

Did you put them back exactly as brucey said, i.e. undoing the left side locknut and cone and unscrewing it far enough to pull the axle partly out of the right side? You need to have access to the right cone so that you can lock the right cone, spacer and locknut off against each other, not just put the spacer and nut back on the right hand side and screw up tight in situ. If you've only done the latter you'll have hub bearings that are either to tight or not locked off properly and can come loose. Either will lead to mangled hub internals or a bent/broken axle. If in doubt take it to a bike shop and explain exactly which parts you've removed and re attached.

[Brucey]

yup. IME

- loose LH cone = hub bearings that go a little bit loose

but

- loose RH cone = self-destructing hub

due to the effects of precession.

cheers

[drossall]

Try SJS Cycles. May be worth talking to them to confirm compatibility, but chances are good and it's not a lot of money if it doesn't work. They may have other designs though.