In a post sure to strike fear in to Pete Bird's heart at Bicycle by design who is well aware of my past form of using inappropriate bicycle part in ways they were not designed...
How 'do-able' is using a 125 or 126mm hub + spacers in a frame with 130mm spaced drop outs?
'Do-able'' and producing a workable end product, not sensible.
125/6 hub in 130mm frame
Re: 125/6 hub in 130mm frame
with many hubs this is 'easy' you just add spacers and redish the wheel as necessary. However some hubs do not lend themselves to being respaced and with these you are on a somewhat stickier wicket.
One obvious point is that if you set the rear mech up for one gear system, you will need to set it up again for some other arrangement. If you forget to do this you may end up with the RD in the spokes.
cheers
One obvious point is that if you set the rear mech up for one gear system, you will need to set it up again for some other arrangement. If you forget to do this you may end up with the RD in the spokes.
cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: 125/6 hub in 130mm frame
Set up of friction. I can just about do that. The plan would be to build up a new frame with new bits and use it for 'best' I.e. Very occasionally.
Last edited by botty on 8 Jul 2018, 5:31pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: 125/6 hub in 130mm frame
I have done this with a few wheels and have chosen to stick all the spacers on the non drive side, so that the wheels remain interchangeable with others and it reduces the dish*.
I converted old uniglide RX100 road hubs to replace uniglide RM50 mtb hubs and I imagine they were the same hub just fitted with different spacers and name tags.
When the front forks broke I spaced the hubs out to 135mm to go in the replacement frame and at that point they were dishless. There is quite a lot of axle sticking out on the left side now which is a bit like going back to screw-on freewheels type loadings that used to bend axles. The axles are still fine and this bike is the one that has to carry the heavy loads.
I have also ran 130mm hubs in a 126mm frame for 20,000 miles (just by squeezing them in) with no problems, though the frame "relaxed" to 128mm during that time and eventually I cold set it to 130mm.
Many bikes come from the factory with 132.5mm spacing so you can use either 130mm or 135mm and with my bike the wheel changes never involved having to readjust the gears indexing, I dont know if that is luck or that Shimano have been good at sticking to standard dimensions.
So even if using 126mm hubs in 130mm OLN frames is horrifying to some, it is certainly very doable.
*When I say "it reduces the dish", I mean that I adjust the spokes to get the rims central which reduces the dish.
I converted old uniglide RX100 road hubs to replace uniglide RM50 mtb hubs and I imagine they were the same hub just fitted with different spacers and name tags.
When the front forks broke I spaced the hubs out to 135mm to go in the replacement frame and at that point they were dishless. There is quite a lot of axle sticking out on the left side now which is a bit like going back to screw-on freewheels type loadings that used to bend axles. The axles are still fine and this bike is the one that has to carry the heavy loads.
I have also ran 130mm hubs in a 126mm frame for 20,000 miles (just by squeezing them in) with no problems, though the frame "relaxed" to 128mm during that time and eventually I cold set it to 130mm.
Many bikes come from the factory with 132.5mm spacing so you can use either 130mm or 135mm and with my bike the wheel changes never involved having to readjust the gears indexing, I dont know if that is luck or that Shimano have been good at sticking to standard dimensions.
So even if using 126mm hubs in 130mm OLN frames is horrifying to some, it is certainly very doable.
*When I say "it reduces the dish", I mean that I adjust the spokes to get the rims central which reduces the dish.
Yma o Hyd
Re: 125/6 hub in 130mm frame
yup, converting 126mm shimano cassette hubs to 130mm is easy enough and dishless wheels are very strong.
A 126mm OLN hub has 5mm of axle stickout each side; if respaced to 130mm using the original axle with extra spacers this leaves 3mm stickout each side, which is plenty.
Don't worry about axle loads on the LHS; hub bodies are made no wider even with a larger OLN and shimano have made plenty of 7s 135mm hubs for MTBs etc and they don't break. The reason axles break in screw-on freewheel hubs is quite a lot to do with the fatigue loads generated by chain tension, and these don't so greatly affect a LH end of an axle.
cheers
A 126mm OLN hub has 5mm of axle stickout each side; if respaced to 130mm using the original axle with extra spacers this leaves 3mm stickout each side, which is plenty.
Don't worry about axle loads on the LHS; hub bodies are made no wider even with a larger OLN and shimano have made plenty of 7s 135mm hubs for MTBs etc and they don't break. The reason axles break in screw-on freewheel hubs is quite a lot to do with the fatigue loads generated by chain tension, and these don't so greatly affect a LH end of an axle.
cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~