I have a Croix de Fer with 50/34 and 11-32 (11 speed 105). I have just bought a SRAM PG1170 11-36 cassette, which I understood I could squeeze in with a bit of B screw fiddling. However, I can't seem to get the cassette on the freewheel. It doesn't seem to sit close enough to the wheel, and I cant screw up the locking ring. Any advice?
thanks.
lowering my 105 11 speed - help!
Re: lowering my 105 11 speed - help!
Is the free hub indented from the previous cassette? Could you clean it up with a file?
Have you compared the mating surfaces of the two 11sp cassettes to see if there is anything different about the Shram? They are meant to be interchangeable after all.
I notice that when I lay a straight edge across my 11sp Shimano cassette there is about a 1mm gap at the centre which mates with the free hub. Do you have this on your Shram cassette?
Have you compared the mating surfaces of the two 11sp cassettes to see if there is anything different about the Shram? They are meant to be interchangeable after all.
I notice that when I lay a straight edge across my 11sp Shimano cassette there is about a 1mm gap at the centre which mates with the free hub. Do you have this on your Shram cassette?
Re: lowering my 105 11 speed - help!
Just make sure its on cleanly. Gentle tap with a spanner to ensure its seated is occasionally needed.
Re: lowering my 105 11 speed - help!
Not much experience with Shimano, and none at all with Sram.
However, my Moulton came with a Tiagra 11-23 cassette, but I swapped it for a 105 11-28.
The Tiagra and the 105 sat very differently on the hub, as the 105 needed a shim sat behind the inner cog.
Leaving that off, the lockring wouldn't tighten enough.
Why the cassettes are different in that regard, I don't know.
I have one cassette that needs one, and one that doesn't. Seems daft to me.
Therefore, I would suggest that you have a shim, and you should remove it.
However, my Moulton came with a Tiagra 11-23 cassette, but I swapped it for a 105 11-28.
The Tiagra and the 105 sat very differently on the hub, as the 105 needed a shim sat behind the inner cog.
Leaving that off, the lockring wouldn't tighten enough.
Why the cassettes are different in that regard, I don't know.
I have one cassette that needs one, and one that doesn't. Seems daft to me.
Therefore, I would suggest that you have a shim, and you should remove it.
Mick F. Cornwall
Re: lowering my 105 11 speed - help!
Miguel Evans wrote:I have a Croix de Fer with 50/34 and 11-32 (11 speed 105). I have just bought a SRAM PG1170 11-36 cassette, which I understood I could squeeze in with a bit of B screw fiddling. However, I can't seem to get the cassette on the freewheel. It doesn't seem to sit close enough to the wheel, and I cant screw up the locking ring. Any advice?
thanks.
Yep - I had the same issue at the shop a couple of weeks ago with a customer-supplied cassette - the Shimano cassettes seem to have some sort of indent behind the largest sprocket that lets the cassette further onto the freehub- whereas the SRAM doesn't. And FWIW the Miche cassettes don't work either.
Not much help but the older 10 speed 105 with SRAM max 36T does work with the B-screw would almost all the way in.
Rob
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Cytech accredited mechanic . . . and woodworker
HoECC http://www.heartofenglandcyclingclub.org.uk
Cytech accredited mechanic . . . and woodworker
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NetworkMan
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Re: lowering my 105 11 speed - help!
I don't know if this is correct but I believe I heard that Shimano 11 speed mountain bike and road cassettes are different in that the mountain bike one manages to fit on an 8/9/10 speed hub because it overhangs the inside of the freehub while the road cassette requires a special 11 speed hub. If true I don't know how this bears on SRAM cassettes.
Re: lowering my 105 11 speed - help!
Pretty certain that you do not need the spacer shim behind the cassette for this scram cassette. This being a mtb cassette and not a road one.
Just fit it and torque up to almost the recommended and then do up to to max torque observing if the lock ring turns, if it does not then it has bottomed out before the cassette is tight.
I actually fitted one last week and did not fit a spacer. The only time I have fitted a spacer with this scram model is on a Hope mtb hub and the spacer was supplied with the hub.
Just fit it and torque up to almost the recommended and then do up to to max torque observing if the lock ring turns, if it does not then it has bottomed out before the cassette is tight.
I actually fitted one last week and did not fit a spacer. The only time I have fitted a spacer with this scram model is on a Hope mtb hub and the spacer was supplied with the hub.
Re: lowering my 105 11 speed - help!
there are two sorts of shimano 11s cassette; 'MTB' and 'road'.
'MTB' 11s cassettes are short enough that they fit onto 10s freehub bodies and 'road' 11s cassettes are less indented on the left side and only fit onto longer 11s specific freehub bodies. My understanding is that SRAM 11s cassettes are built like 'road' ones.
If you fit an MTB 11s cassette onto an 11s hub, you often need to fit a thin spacer at the back of the cassette.
I don't know what dictates whether you have an MTB or road 11s cassette for sure, except that all MTB cassettes have large bottom gear sprockets; these mean that the sprocket can be used (closer to the spokes) without the rear mech tangling with the wheel.
All this means that you can take a shimano 11s cassette off a hub and try to replace it, only to come unstuck as the above posts describe.
There may be other wrinkles beyond this of which I am not aware. If you can measure the length of the freehub body that you are trying to fit a SRAM 11s cassette to and failing, this may cast more light on the subject.
cheers
'MTB' 11s cassettes are short enough that they fit onto 10s freehub bodies and 'road' 11s cassettes are less indented on the left side and only fit onto longer 11s specific freehub bodies. My understanding is that SRAM 11s cassettes are built like 'road' ones.
If you fit an MTB 11s cassette onto an 11s hub, you often need to fit a thin spacer at the back of the cassette.
I don't know what dictates whether you have an MTB or road 11s cassette for sure, except that all MTB cassettes have large bottom gear sprockets; these mean that the sprocket can be used (closer to the spokes) without the rear mech tangling with the wheel.
All this means that you can take a shimano 11s cassette off a hub and try to replace it, only to come unstuck as the above posts describe.
There may be other wrinkles beyond this of which I am not aware. If you can measure the length of the freehub body that you are trying to fit a SRAM 11s cassette to and failing, this may cast more light on the subject.
cheers
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