Brucey wrote:If you want STIs then I would advise you to stick with pre-2008 STIs that don't have the longer NSSLR brake cable pull.
Thanks. Any idea what ST numbers I should be looking out for. Would it be 8-speed versions of 105 or Ultegra that were current pre-2008? Is there anything compatible that doesn't have the gear cable coming out of the side of the hood?
You say that your dissatisfaction with the Rapidfire shifters is the handlebar clutter, rather than the need to take your hands off the hoods to change gear. Given that, and given the likely relatively high cost (and possible difficulty) of getting suitable STI levers, what about downtube levers instead?
Not only are they less expensive than STIs, their simplicity and reliability would also admirably suit a bike fitted with drum brakes, and you could continue to use your current brake levers.
Nice idea but it's too late for that. My other main bikes have had STI or Ergo for many years and I have got used to them. I could never go back to reaching down to down tube levers.
Brucey wrote:If you want STIs then I would advise you to stick with pre-2008 STIs that don't have the longer NSSLR brake cable pull.
Thanks. Any idea what ST numbers I should be looking out for. Would it be 8-speed versions of 105 or Ultegra that were current pre-2008? Is there anything compatible that doesn't have the gear cable coming out of the side of the hood?
On the latter point, yes, campag 10s ergos. Ought to be plug and play for shimano 8s mech
Shimano shifters that work include ST-
7400 6400 1055 2200 2300 (I think- do check this but I think this is the only model launched post 2008 that has the 'old' brake cable pull) 3300
easier to source? Hmm... There are some issues to contend with
1) not all 10s ergos are any good at all (recent ones are nowhere near good enough IMHO) 2) FD control is a bit hit and miss when you start mixing and matching. You will probably get away with using most versions on a double (even with an FD that isn't matched) provided you are not too fussy about trim positions 3) ergos have a different failure mode to STIs. Typically STIs fail by breaking (don't really work at all) or gumming up inside. Ergos can wear so that they appear to be working OK when you have them in your hand, but they either won't hold a gear or will do multiple shifts at once, and you only get to find that out when they are installed on the bike.
Most Ergos are rebuildable but for early 10s models some spare parts have gone NLA
With a shimano STI you will have to use a matched FD and RD obviously but there is a much wider choice.
Although your query is not directed at me, I have an eighties Raleigh Record Ace fitted with 70mm SA drum brakes fore and aft.
I built the bike up initially as fixed gear with front drum only and travelled just shy of 6000 commuting miles without problem. The front brake performed very well 'out of the box' with tektro RL340 lever (I think). I opened up the drum before first installation and haven't opened it since. Thus it may have some black brake lining dust inside but I have no reason to suspect any fall off in performance so I'll probably open it up at around 10,000 miles.
My only 'observation' is that when descending a really steep hill (say 1 in 4) in fixed gear guise, the drum would start to squeal as it became warm. I find it hard to control descent speed just with the pedals and thus would 'chicken out' and probably use the brake over enthusiastically. It was always at the back of my mind what would happen if the cable snapped and I was careering downhill with pedals flying around at 40mph.
Hence at Christmas I built up a rear hub braked wheel with 5 speed freewheel and have been entirely satisfied ever since.
It may be worth pointing out that I have never ridden a bike with disc brakes and thus maybe my satisfaction with drums would change if I ever encountered the magic of instant retardation with discs!. My preferred anchors in no particular order being Vee, caliper and these drums.
Another detail to point out is that I use the standard SA cables & outers as supplied with the hubs and feel these give good feedback. I would be averse to fit the non compressible cable outers for fear of overstressing the rather spindly fork and chainstay scantlings. Similar thinking behind why the 70mm drum is sufficient for my needs. The 90mm may be too powerful.
Punctures are a bit more of a faff on this bike, having to carry a small wrench to release the rear gubbins, but as with most things if you are prepared then life is good.
SimonCelsa wrote: ↑5 Jun 2022, 7:43pm
Although your query is not directed at me, I have an eighties Raleigh Record Ace fitted with 70mm SA drum brakes fore and aft.
My only 'observation' is that when descending a really steep hill (say 1 in 4) in fixed gear guise, the drum would start to squeal as it became warm.
Hence at Christmas I built up a rear hub braked wheel with 5 speed freewheel and have been entirely satisfied ever since.
Similar thinking behind why the 70mm drum is sufficient for my needs. The 90mm may be too powerful.
Hope that helps, cheers
Thank you, it does indeed. With current supply chains being disrupted I an having to plan for the future and was wondering about either stocking up with 90mm drum brakes or 70mm drum brakes.. given that lack of 1/4 hills in my area, your feedback is greatly appreciated - Thank you.
