Another Shopper - general modernisation questions

[4004]

Oh, it's been a while.
My old trusty shopper that has seen wheels rebuilt, the hub refreshed, tyres swapped, new rims and chains has been stolen (despite the rat look and all).
So I went out and bought another one. This one actually has more bits of the Shopper left on it: rear rack, Union bottle and rear light (front MIA), and a vinyl saddle (some Polish brand, not Brooks, unfortunately). While I haven't yet run this specimen into the ground, some things I was hoping to get advice on:
- Dynamo lights: are modern units ok with that Union bottle (presuming it works)? I am self-contained lights man and wouldn't mind just using old battery lights, but if I can dive into the wonderful dynamo world without too much effort (like a new bottle+wiring), I would;
- Saddle: the Polish thing looks the part, but rusts like something out of the PRL, and isn't exactly comfortable. My old Shopper had a non-standard, narrower vinyl that was ok, but I could see myself going for something from Brooks or others with some ventilation while the heat holds - shouldn't be any issues affixing it to the original seat post? Speaking of
- Seat post: this one still hasn't rusted away, but I was thinking of a suspension post since this a commuter bike. Are there any out there that would fit the Shopper/20 frame?
That's a lot of questions, thanks in advance to whoever manages through it

[rjb]

Here's a link showing what you can do to an old Raleigh 20. Plenty of ideas there. http://mapage.noos.fr/ptis.trucs.sympas/VPBleu.htm

[Brucey]

any bike with posh bits on it loses utility as a town hack because someone will want to nick the posh bits. Better locks will help but really you might as well leave £50 notes stapled all over your bike and expect them to still be there when you get back.

seat pin diameter is 28.6mm I think. More here
https://raleightwenty.webs.com/needalongerseatpost.htm
suspension posts normally fit with a shim, and the combination of a long seat pin and a shim isn't always a good one.

Best lighting solution (IMHO) is to use a dynohub, like raleigh did (in the rear wheel). Modern LED lights will work with either a bottle dynamo or the dynohub.

cheers

[cycle tramp]

Sorry to hear about the theft of your cycle Send some photographs of your new one, when you've finished...
.... just looking at the link makes me wish the raleigh twenty frame was still in production..... >sigh<

[4004]

any bike with posh bits on it loses utility as a town hack because someone will want to nick the posh bits. Better locks will help but really you might as well leave £50 notes stapled all over your bike and expect them to still be there when you get back.

seat pin diameter is 28.6mm I think. More here
https://raleightwenty.webs.com/needalongerseatpost.htm
suspension posts normally fit with a shim, and the combination of a long seat pin and a shim isn't always a good one.

Best lighting solution (IMHO) is to use a dynohub, like raleigh did (in the rear wheel). Modern LED lights will work with either a bottle dynamo or the dynohub.

cheers

yeah, figured as much, hence why I am looking for something inconspicious but still good (some suspension posts don't look too out of place IIRC).
Kinda wary of shims with suspension posts, anyone had such experience?
This bike sadly didn't come with a dynohyb fitted, and I don't think I'll bother with a retrofit, so bottle it is. Will see if it works.

[SA_SA_SA]

The original Rido saddle was very cheap: its successors rather less so
(they have gained some padding: I find the original comfortable with the addition of some fleece under a lycra saddle cover to create padding). I think the idea of the Rido was to work the same way as a worn-in leather saddle minus the wearing-in....

But now more expensive: http://www.rido-cyclesaddles.com/c.do?category=34

[Brucey]

This bike sadly didn't come with a dynohyb fitted, and I don't think I'll bother with a retrofit, so bottle it is. Will see if it works.

If you want a 28hole AG hub (as per R20s), I have one kicking around somewhere. You can have it as is for cheap or (if you prefer, for a bit more) with the internal (different from an AW BTW) rebuilt with new springs etc.

cheers

[4004]

I've actually tried the Rido, but found the padding somewhat hard, so probably not for me. Considering how many people fit aero saddles to their 20s, it seems I am in the minority wanting a comfy one. Might end up just taking a Sedona saddle, at least I know it works for me.

Thanks for the offer Brucey, but I figured I'd just keep this one as it is with the hub (for now)

[rogerzilla]

Fitting a BMX fork (I paid £13 new, chromed) with V-brake bosses gives you the opportunity to use any ISO 1" headset and to have a brake that actually works You'll need to rebuild the wheels to the "other" 20" (406), for which tyres are far more readily available. BB height is still ok on the smaller wheels as it was quite high to start with (US models always had BMX wheels).

A coaster brake on the rear gives you two brakes that work; the rear drop is almost 100mm on 406 wheels and among rim brakes only ineffective Dia-Compe sidepulls or copies will fit. I used a Sachs Duomatic 102 kickback hub but Sturmey-Archer or Velosteel have various options that can be spaced to fit.

You're stuck with the Raleigh threaded BB and cottered cranks unless you pay over £90 to have the shell reamed, narrowed and sleeved.

[4004]

Actually, that's the way I wasn't planning to go, as it changes the bike's character quite a lot (and not a fan of 406 wheels).
I think my brake options are slightly better with 451, at least for the front, I could try some old weinmans/diacompe, or something long reach.
Coasters are good in that they actually work, but not used to them so probably would avoid for now.
I've ridden a 20 with cotterless cranks and don't think it's worth it.
Now that parts are starting to come in, I should actually spend some time on it, chain replacement first

[Brucey]

another front brake option is to use one of these;



https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/diacompe-brs101-front-track-frame-brake-25-mm-clamp-fitting-silver/

but 'as is' it only works with a skinny tyre of some kind. I daresay that something similar could be DIYed; however NB it is important to make the band clamps

a) perfectly secure and
b) the same height as the brake blocks end up

if the brakes are to work as they should do.

cheers

[4004]

Hmm, I thought I've seen some long reach brakes on SJS that were used in some R20 builds without much modification, but maybe I'm misremembering

[random37]

You could have a drum braked rear hub, and a front brake such as one of these (providing you stick with 451 rims):

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/blac ... t-fitting/

The rear one wouldn't work because of the 20's cable routing.

And yes, sorry to hear about your bike. Horrible feeling.

[4004]

Yeah, made more horrible by all the time I put into the previous one, and how I managed to recover another bike before but seems less likely now. Because of this, I am no longer relying on ratrod looks and doing some security upgrades from the get to.

Yes, I was thinking of the Tektros, thanks! I think Alhonga also did something long reach, but they don't really appeal to me.
Just looking at the current Raleigh brakes, they don't seem that long, but I guess it's better to just drop in the Tektros rather than try and figure out which ones are compatible? I wouldn't expect much difference in performance between calipers that are a bit shorter/longer.
I might splash out for a new hub when the current wheels give in, but will keep the old brakes for now, and add some koolstop/raincheaters.


Put a new rear tire on - went for Michelin CIty J simply because couldn't find the Schwalbe white walls (looks like I am late to that party).
It would appear that the old Record tire wasn't seated on the rim properly due to the peculiar Michelin tube with a Presta valve (I didn't know they had Presta valves on such sizes), with the valve stem somehow interfering with the tire. Swapped it out for now, and preserved for history

[4004]

Finally got round to installing the replacement Tektro's on the front, but struggled a little.
Despite trying to fix the cable when pads are in contact with the rim, the level goes almost all the way to the handlebar, and sometimes stays there.
Is the issue with the lever, cable or cable housing?
The plastic self-adjusted also seems to be under a lot of strain from the cable pulling down - could be because the cable is routed on the right of the bike with tektro, while originals where on the left