Rear mech hanger issues

[Brucey]

to straighten most in situ, you just need an M10x 1 threaded axle and a couple of nuts. If you install the rear wheel the wrong way round (i.e. so that the cassette is on the left) there will be space for the nut on the inside of the hanger. If you don't have nuts either side there is a risk of threads stripping.

cheers

[thirdcrank]

to straighten most in situ, you just need an M10x 1 threaded axle and a couple of nuts. If you install the rear wheel the wrong way round (i.e. so that the cassette is on the left) there will be space for the nut on the inside of the hanger. If you don't have nuts either side there is a risk of threads stripping.

cheers

In the case I mentioned above, the deformation was minimal to the extent of being imperceptible (to me.) With the replacement and the original together, I couldn't see much difference, but with the new one fitted, the gears changed as sweetly as a nut whereas the old one was bad enough to have me pulling what's left of my hair out till I was pointed in the right direction. Is straightening a matter of trial-and-error?

[fastpedaller]

One of these is well worth making, unless you feel the Park tool one worth the cost....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWdO4dnu18g

I have used my home made hanger aligner a good few times to cure mine and friends bikes with gear changing issues and rubbing chain/can't quite get the adjustment right type problems which are often due to even a very slight twist or bend in the hanger. even this very basic home made tool will show up any wonkiness and let you gently tweak things back to normal.

I would love to ' home made' one of these tools but it is entirely dependant on making the hole perfectly aligned and a pillar drill is not available in your average home tool kit

It isn't entirely dependent on the hole alignment being perfect....... If the square tube is slightly 'in' when at the top, it will also be slightly 'in' when at the bottom! or anywhere else. It is ideal if perfectly aligned (washers will not like a misalignment) but not absolutely essential. Also it's important (probably more so) that the hole is as tight a fit (and round) to the bolt.

[iandusud]

I totally agree with those who have suggested that you straighten out the bent hanger (unless it is very badly bent) however I would not do it in situ. Do it in vice ideally, although I have done it using a couple of adjustable spanners when a vice wasn't available. It's safe enough to make small tweeks in situ but I would avoid putting much force into it with it in the frame.

[Brucey]

to straighten most in situ, you just need an M10x 1 threaded axle and a couple of nuts. If you install the rear wheel the wrong way round (i.e. so that the cassette is on the left) there will be space for the nut on the inside of the hanger. If you don't have nuts either side there is a risk of threads stripping.

cheers

In the case I mentioned above, the deformation was minimal to the extent of being imperceptible (to me.) With the replacement and the original together, I couldn't see much difference, but with the new one fitted, the gears changed as sweetly as a nut whereas the old one was bad enough to have me pulling what's left of my hair out till I was pointed in the right direction. Is straightening a matter of trial-and-error?

if you don't have an eye for it, you can improvise tools to check the alignment; a pointer made from coathanger wire, wrapped around the 'tool' (axle) will do

cheers

[thirdcrank]

... if you don't have an eye for it, you can improvise tools to check the alignment; a pointer made from coathanger wire, wrapped around the 'tool' (axle) will do ...

I'm hoping I'm never in this situation again but in the various youtube guides I watched when I was stuck, there seemed to be plenty suggesting taking a spare hanger along on a ride in much the same way as a puncture outfit and a spare tube etc.

My problem was that the mech selected the smallest sprocket OK but couldn't shift all the way across to the largest. I can see now that it would have taken the chain off the small sprocket had it not been for the stop. ie, Without the stop it would have shifted 0-6 rather than 1-7.

As a dour skinflint, I'm attracted to the idea of fixing the original rather than shelling out for a replacement, but I'm frank enough to admit I don't really understand how to improvise such a tool. Is there something like a youtube clip where I can get a simpleton's guide?

[keyboardmonkey]

... As a dour skinflint, I'm attracted to the idea of fixing the original rather than shelling out for a replacement, but I'm frank enough to admit I don't really understand how to improvise such a tool. Is there something like a youtube clip where I can get a simpleton's guide?

If you have the time, lots of stuff lying about or more time and patience to source or scavenge bits and bobs and (ideally) a drill press, I can quite understand how it might be satisfying indeed to make your own tool:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KIzd0xdkowM

I think I watched the video all the way through then ordered the Park Tool DAG2.2.

[fastpedaller]

... As a dour skinflint, I'm attracted to the idea of fixing the original rather than shelling out for a replacement, but I'm frank enough to admit I don't really understand how to improvise such a tool. Is there something like a youtube clip where I can get a simpleton's guide?

If you have the time, lots of stuff lying about or more time and patience to source or scavenge bits and bobs and (ideally) a drill press, I can quite understand how it might be satisfying indeed to make your own tool:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KIzd0xdkowM

I think I watched the video all the way through then ordered the Park Tool DAG2.2.

Crikey - would be cheaper to go to local engineering shop, buy a steel tube and get them to drill it for you - plus an m10X1 bolt of suitable length (less than £2? and some nuts - simples.