David9694 wrote:The tile of this thread is that of a poem - we did it in English. “ to,orrow we will have what to do after firing, but today we have naming of parts” “...don’t let me catch anyone using his thumb”
Without looking it up, who is the author? I was thinking Kipling or Newbolt, but now I’m not so sure. I’m going to click submit and then have me a peek.
Plus One for literary references, it seemed a bit biblical to me
Seems this thread is rushing off in two different directions
If a torque setting is wrong, which is worse: too loose or too tight?
Entertainer, juvenile, curmudgeon, PoB, 30120 Cycling-of course, but it is far better on a Gillott We love safety cameras, we hate bullies
Cyril Haearn wrote: Seems this thread is rushing off in two different directions?
OP privilege.
Spa Audax Ti Ultegra; Genesis Equilibrium 853; Raleigh Record Ace 1983; “Raleigh Competition”, “Raleigh Gran Sport 1982”; “Allegro Special”, Bob Jackson tourer, Ridley alu step-through with Swytch front wheel; gravel bike from an MB Dronfield 531 frame.
Flimsoid seat binder - Ribble’s double bolt, which has threaded cams made from what my father used to call white metal. Fell to bits on me.
Spa Audax Ti Ultegra; Genesis Equilibrium 853; Raleigh Record Ace 1983; “Raleigh Competition”, “Raleigh Gran Sport 1982”; “Allegro Special”, Bob Jackson tourer, Ridley alu step-through with Swytch front wheel; gravel bike from an MB Dronfield 531 frame.
NetworkMan wrote: Presumably there's a torsion bar with a pointer moving over the yellow scale. The big one works by bending a beam and I googled for a small one but failed.
The main shaft of the tool is usually a 4mm hexagon section and this twists (elastically only, one hopes... ) to give the torsion beam effect. The calibration can be changed by sliding the yellow scale up and down the shaft. If the shaft takes a 'set' at high torque then this gives a zero point error, which is obvious.
Park tool make (made?) a 1/4" beam type wrench which is just fine but at low torque a T handle is usually easier to use, esp one-handed. A point to note is that for a few fasteners you might encounter (eg lever hood bolts), you may need a long series 1/4" hex fitting bit to access the fastener head properly; the tool won't fit because it is too fat. But it works fine on stem hardware and seat post bolts etc.
cheers
Thanks. I just ordered the Topeak one. Even if it's inaccurate it should at least be repeatable and linear (praise be to Mr. Hooke) so any error is not too great a problem.
maintenance so how do you lubricate a click torque wrench. I have a Halfords one I use for my motor bike and it is rarely used but used fro eg the engine oil drain plug ( 43NM ) as I dont want to damage the threads as it seems a coomon problem is that they get damaged by overtightening! Should it be stored with a low setting but greater than zero? squirt oils some where?
store set to zero or ~1Nm to relieve tension on the spring without the workings coming loose. Best lube depends on what is inside it to start with.
If you have not used it for months, default option is to oil the knuckle mechanism, check the calibration, and 'exercise' the wrench a few times before using it on critical work.
Just remembered that my Ultegra 8 speed bar-end shifters tighten anti-clockwise and that my little Topeak wrench can't do that except by estimating the deflection, which I guess will probably be good enough. Do the clicky ones manage to tighten anti-clockwise - not that I'm about to buy one?
NetworkMan wrote:Just remembered that my Ultegra 8 speed bar-end shifters tighten anti-clockwise and that my little Topeak wrench can't do that except by estimating the deflection, which I guess will probably be good enough. Do the clicky ones manage to tighten anti-clockwise - not that I'm about to buy one?
NetworkMan wrote:Just remembered that my Ultegra 8 speed bar-end shifters tighten anti-clockwise and that my little Topeak wrench can't do that except by estimating the deflection, which I guess will probably be good enough. Do the clicky ones manage to tighten anti-clockwise - not that I'm about to buy one?
Henry Reed's poem 'Naming of Parts' cleverly moves through the verses to contrast the dry technical diction of a gunnery instructor with the more aesthetic appreciation of the surrounding natural world as experienced by the person under instruction. The mundane pathos of having to prepare for war is heightened by an increasing sense of regret for what is being left behind. As has been noted earlier, the bolt, which 'we can slide backwards and forwards: we call this easing the spring' is linked with the bees 'assaulting and fumbling the flowers: They call it easing the spring.' Quite raunchy, for 1946.
Pretty good choice of subject really- torque wrenches, tyre levers and allen keys and so on are means of getting on our bikes to go and experience the real world, as Henry Reed is longing to do.
Philip Larkin, in his poem (bear with me, folks) 'Church Going' takes off his cycle-clips 'in awkward reverence'. Anyone remember doing that?
My only excuse for all this is that there was a request for more poetic allusions earlier. So maybe stop hi-jacking this thread and start a new one.
Yeah, I’m fairly and squarely the level 3 fettler you describe: I can’t justify having the level 4 stuff that you list.
...
The last of my kit is slung, I mean carefully placed, in the bottom of my tool box...
Perhaps I need a tidier storage method for this lot
Digital calipers (bought after being recommended on this forum), inner brake and gear cables, Park Tool PW-4 pedal wrench, Bondhus 6mm ball end screwdriver type Allen key, Vessel +2 150mm and +1 100mm screwdriver, Ice Toolz Shimano HT2 bottom bracket removal tool, 3rd hand tool (used in the last week when working on the cantis on my touring bike), 3/8" drive shoulderless extra long Allen key socket set, Park Tool parts bowl (with 1/2" drive socket for that bottom bracket tool I keep in the tool box lid), some grease, Park Tool DAG2.2 rear derailleur hanger alignment gauge, Home Bargains towel.
David9694 wrote:Blimey keyboardmonkey you’re not getting a look at mine!
NetworkMan wrote:Nor mine. They are carefully thrown into the drawers of an old kitchen unit in the garage.
I've had a shuffle around so that I can quickly get at the tools that would otherwise hide at the bottom of my tool box. Instead they're now directly underneath the lift-out compartment (on top of the two tool rolls) strapped in to a Cocoon GRID-IT organiser thingy. Not cheap but I saved a few quid by getting the less-fancied blue model. It would be cheaper to lash some knicker elastic to a sheet of hardboard or something, but hey ho. Works for me
Cocoon GRID-IT with those tools that I would otherwise be scrabbling about for at the bottom of my big tool box
