Campag Ergo strip down

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Mick F
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Campag Ergo strip down

Postby Mick F » 19 Apr 2008, 4:14pm

I had a strange problem with my RH Ergo.

It would change beautifully with the up button, but the lever mechanism behind the brake lever felt "woolly" and "vague" and it sometimes slipped a cog. I immediately thought of a worn G spring, but as I only put new ones on in December when I modified it to 10sp, I hoped it was something simpler. Yesterday I gave it a good dowsing in GT85, but during my ride today it felt no better.

So I bit the bullet and spent a happy couple of hours completely stripping it down and re-building.

Basically, it was caked in dried grease, making the cams, springs and ratchets all sticky and stiff.

I'd assembled it after the modification in December with loads of grease that helped hold everything together. You need five hands with 11 fingers on each to re-build one of these! I didn't clean anything out, I just added more grease.

Anyway, this time I assembled it dry after giving absolutely everything a thoroughly good cleaning. I did it, even with only two normal hands! Then I gave it a good dowsing in engine oil, exercising the Ergo back and forth.

It feels as good as new.

Who's a clever boy then?

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Mick F. Cornwall

thirdcrank
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Re: Campag Ergo strip down

Postby thirdcrank » 19 Apr 2008, 4:18pm

Mick F wrote:Who's a clever boy then?


I thought that was Uncle Alf, then I remembered Uncle Alf's a girl :oops:

Colin Stanley
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Postby Colin Stanley » 19 Apr 2008, 4:59pm

OK Mick,
Sad to read you are having probs with your 10 speed Ergos.

What grease did you use when you first assembled them?
I use Finish Line, the white stuff in a screw lid tub.
I know Campy say don't use any extra lube, but it's difficult not to when offering up an inner cable several times.

I did find that the outer cable was a right B*. Knowing what I do now, I should have bent the outer cable first at the Ergo end, then cut the outer. Thus the cable with the longitudinal wires would have been cut square, and not left with a weird bunch of "fingers" due to inner thingies being cut, then bent into the angle required for the Ergo levers.

Whilst my car engine loves engine oil, not to sure about Ergos?
I use a lot of GT85 on mechs and freeing things, its great on chains..... :oops: , oops, as we all know, only White Lightning is good for chains...

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Mick F
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Postby Mick F » 19 Apr 2008, 5:13pm

Hi Colin,

The grease in the Ergo was the original, I just added some general purpose stuff. But a lot of it dried to a gunge, especially round the lever mechanism at the front. The bits and bobs at the back were just about ok. Basically, there was too much grease, some of it rather manky.

I have some 20/50(?) engine oil in a small can, so I used that. I haven't been out for a test ride, (tomorrow perhaps, and I'm busy Monday, so it might be Tuesday yet!) but I'm positive that I've fixed it. It honestly feels as good as new.

Yes, the cables do take some fitting, I always hold them in place on the bars with gaffa tape before wrapping the bar tape on top.

TC - Uncle Alf is a girl, as you say. We named her before we had any idea what sex she was. And she often says "Hello!". I'll pass your regards on to her!
Mick F. Cornwall

reohn2

Postby reohn2 » 19 Apr 2008, 7:31pm

I immediately thought of a worn G string
,

:shock:

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Mick F
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Postby Mick F » 19 Apr 2008, 8:39pm

An air on a G string?
Mick F. Cornwall

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Re: Campag Ergo strip down

Postby Kentish Man » 19 Apr 2008, 8:50pm

Mick F wrote:
Basically, it was caked in dried grease, making the cams, springs and ratchets all sticky and stiff.

Image


Mick, have you tried molybdenum grease? I bought a tin of Castrol's over thirty years ago (didn't know I was making a life time's investment) and it doesn't dry out. Apart from being very slippery, I was told that it was the grease to use to prevent alloy cranks binding on to steel bb axles (as it prevents the electrolytic action between the two different metals?). Anyway, I've found it a great lubricant and never a source of dried, crusted gunk.

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Mick F
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Postby Mick F » 19 Apr 2008, 9:04pm

Good stuff KM. I have a tub that I used on CV joints from when I had a Mini or two...

Didn't use it on the Ergo, perhaps I should, but oil will do just fine - I hope!
Mick F. Cornwall

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Graham
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Postby Graham » 20 Apr 2008, 4:36pm

Hi Mick,

I just did my Ergo G-springs a couple of weeks ago.

The change from good shifting to a mush on specific gears ( 6-7-8 ) was very sudden and unexpected. I thought it might be some other sort of failure.

I used FinshLine (white) grease on the springs, as per last time.
Everything seems ok.

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Mick F
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Postby Mick F » 20 Apr 2008, 7:01pm

I didn't expect to, but I did! I rode out on a Sunday! Isn't the traffic different?

Anyway, the Ergo worked beautifully, albeit a bit oily! Sweaty right hand and slippy rubber hood. I worked absolutely fine, nice and clicky and positive. The lever flicked back and forth without any hesitation.

All that the problem was therefore, was a build-up of dried grease on the lever cam and ratchet.

If I were to re-design the Ergo, I'd have lubrication ports at suitable places. There's no way you can get any lub into the mechanism without stripping it all out. The least that needs to be done is to take the brake lever off to access the front bits. Other than that, it's take the complete Ergo off the 'bars to get at the back bits as well.

BTW, my Ergos are 4 years old and have done more than 10,000 miles. That's lots of gear changes!
Mick F. Cornwall

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Postby pliptrot » 21 Apr 2008, 3:39pm

I take my CTC cap off to you for having the patience and dexterity to do this. Don't let Campag know or they'll do a Shimano - making it completely unserviceable.

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Mick F
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Postby Mick F » 21 Apr 2008, 4:22pm

Good grief! Is that true? Shimano STI unserviceable?

I know the Campag stuff is now "Escape" for Xenon, Mirage, Veloce, and Centaur and is now unrepairable. ie they don't do the internal bits as spares. But I'm sure you can strip them down and give then a good seeing-to.

It wasn't that difficult to do the job.
1. Remove the gear and brake cables and take Ergo control off the bars.
2. Drive out the brake pivot shaft with a soft punch - I used a brass bolt of the right diameter. Easily done with a few gentle taps of a hammer.
3. Remove the brake lever, the bar clamp and the rear plastic bit.
4. Unhook the lever return spring, and lift it out.
5. Peel back the hood at either end and fit allen keys into the shaft sockets.
6. Unscrew the lot and let all the bits fall all over the kitchen floor!
(Taking care to do it in slow motion so you can see how it all goes back together) Seriously, it is easy. Just pay attention to see how it works.
7. Clean everything, and re-assemble. Fiddly. You need a thin screwdriver and a pair of tweezers, and your reading glasses and good light.
Mick F. Cornwall

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Graham
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Postby Graham » 21 Apr 2008, 7:54pm

You've read the book : now see the film(s)

Ergopower - take apart
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=2t0ttU_Jm0Y

Ergopower - reassemble
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=qSAnAmBXYSY

Mick : Note the generous use of grease to hold the G-springs in place during reassembly :wink:

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Mick F
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Postby Mick F » 21 Apr 2008, 8:27pm

Very good, Graham.

It all went just like that for me too! But not necessarily in that order!

But what happened to the rubber hood?
From what I know, the hood won't come off or go back on without removing the upshift button. Funny how it wasn't there to start with.
Mick F. Cornwall

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Campag ergo strip down

Postby SP » 21 Apr 2008, 10:58pm

Am I the only one to sit watching those video clips with sweaty palms?!