Road Stop Delux Brake Blocks

[jb]

A while ago I bought some 'BBB' road calliper blocks from a well known bike shop in Harrogate. I just got round to fitting them or trying to, the problem is that they have an adjustable self aligning feature, but unless I'm being thick - there is no way of tightening them up. as soon as they start to tighten then the ball joint which is part of the adjustment mechanism, spins, thus preventing further tightening. There is no way to prevent this as far as I can see.


The other odd thing about these blocks is that there is only one ball and socket washer, so the block has to align with the flat face of the calliper slot regardless of how much you would like it to toe in. The cantilever types I've used before had ball and socket washers on both sides allowing the block to be toed in by a small amount. Most calliper brakes would not have the room for this.


Has any one else used these with a better outcome?

[Brucey]

like this?



not used that exact model but there are plenty others that are similar. The swivel is built into the shoe not the bolt, so the head on the 'sleeve' part of the bolt is curved to match a similar curve on the inside of the holder, and there is curved washer between the arm and the holder too . Kool stops, ashimas, some clarks and most good shimano 'road' brake blocks are like this.

If you remove the insert you can see the back of the sleeve part and it should have two flats on it so that it doesn't rotate easily. Take a look inside the BBB ones to see if there is a similar arrangement or not.

The sleeve can try and rotate if the bolt binds for any reason or the brake arm is too thin or something.

These brake blocks have a similar adjustment system; this photo happens to show the outer curved face; there is obviously a matching inner one that can't be seen



cheers

[jb]

No they are not that sort ,there is no way of preventing the spindle from rotating.

[RickH]

No they are not that sort ,there is no way of preventing the spindle from rotating.

If the spindle is rotating in the blocks then they are faulty. If it isn't you can stop the block rotating by applying the brake firmly (you can use a toestrap or a reusable zip tie to lock the brake on) while you tighten the nut.

[Brucey]

ah... I have not encountered that exact sort before. Might I suggest that the thing might be secured more easily by using a drop of threadlock on the swivel at base of the stud (which may hinder it from spinning whilst still allowing it to articulate) and a little grease on the threads of the nut?

Also the correct assembly is like the one on the left below



except that there are no curvy washers on the outer side of the brake arm. There surely ought to be a flat washer though?

Putting the brake on hard may or may not load up the stud itself.

cheers

[jb]

That may or may not work , the thing is you should not need to do it. They are poorly designed and unfortunately shows that the businesses selling them do not take the trouble to asses the products they are selling.

[Paulatic]

I see what you did there
The asses fail to assess

[Brucey]

yes you shouldn't have to struggle to fit them, but you are where you are; you have a choice of

a) taking/sending them back (faff, expense etc) and
b) making them work somehow (faff, expense etc).

so choose your poison...

Once they are on they probably won't need to be fiddled with again until they have to come off. However taking them off might be worse than fitting them, if the threads in the nut have corroded at all.....

In addition to the threadlock idea, some thoughts;

- just pulling on the brake block (backwards or sideways) might cause enough binding in the stud/socket to allow the thing to be tightened

- pushing a small screwdriver into the brake arm slot might jam the stud well enough to allow the nut to be tightened

- cutting a slot in the end of the stud for a screwdriver and using a conventional M6 hexagon nut might be a way of fitting them.

cheers