Six bolt adapters for centrelock hubs

[Gattonero]

I'm sure with a bit of search there will be a new CL rotor for a tenner or slightly more

[thelawnet]

the problem you have is that Center-Lock wheels are mostly still considered as "medium-high range" so the rotors that will be fitted are going to be the expensive ones, and as such the adapters do cost some money.

I don't think that's the issue. Centerlock is found on Shimano's cheapest hubs, which must cost very little for OEMs.

The issue more is that it belongs to Shimano so there's no cheap third-party rotors. The cheaper Shimano rotors (RT10/RT30/RT54) are all 'resin only'. Probably they are ok, but if you don't want that the cheapest is RT64. Around £12 from China, £15 in the UK

[Valbrona]

The DT wheels I am about to buy are supplied with centerlock to 6 bolt adapters, which I thought was rather nice.

[reohn2]

The DT wheels I am about to buy are supplied with centerlock to 6 bolt adapters, which I thought was rather nice.

Problem solved

[StephenW]

Would it be OK to glue the adapter onto the hub with epoxy? Then it would be possible to dispense with the lockring. This would allow the disc to be removed using only a torx key, without needing the special lockring spanner.

[RickH]

Would it be OK to glue the adapter onto the hub with epoxy? Then it would be possible to dispense with the lockring. This would allow the disc to be removed using only a torx key, without needing the special lockring spanner.

Why can't you just leave the adapter fixed in place with the lock ring & just undo the torx bolts to remove/change the disc. I wouldn't want to rely on a disc of mine solely held on to the hub by epoxy.

[reohn2]

.

Why can't you just leave the adapter fixed in place with the lock ring & just undo the torx bolts to remove/change the disc. I wouldn't want to rely on a disc of mine solely held on to the hub by epoxy.

Nor me

[Brucey]

is there such a thing that allows you to unbolt the disc via six bolts leaving the adaptor in situ? I think the lockring gets in the way. Problem solvers used to make a clamp-on adaptor but I think they have stopped making it...?

cheers

[alexnharvey]

The lockring gets in the way. Many of the current adapters don't use bolts and have six studs instead.

[StephenW]

The lockring gets in the way.

Yes, this is the problem. I got the adapter partly so that I could take the disc off using only a torx key. This could be useful when taking the bike on a plane.

I wouldn't want to rely on a disc of mine solely held on to the hub by epoxy.

Well, the splines should be taking the force of braking. The epoxy would just be there to stop the adapter from sliding off the splines. The lateral force on the disc should be pretty low I think? Even when using brakes where only one pad moves, the moving pad is on the outside, so should be pushing the adapter onto the hub, not pulling it off.

[RickH]

Well, the splines should be taking the force of braking. The epoxy would just be there to stop the adapter from sliding off the splines. The lateral force on the disc should be pretty low I think? Even when using brakes where only one pad moves, the moving pad is on the outside, so should be pushing the adapter onto the hub, not pulling it off.

Theory is a fine thing but not always born out in practice.

If the force at the calliper is trying to bend the disc inwards the elasticity of the disc trying to stay straight will be acting to try to pull it off the hub at the diametrically opposite point. Unless the braking force is absolutely even on both sides of the disc there will always be some force trying to pull the disc off the splines, either at the calliper or the opposite side of the disc.

How much overlap with the lock ring is there?

Would it be possible to grind down the outer edge to give enough clearance?

Or make notches where the bolts sit, when the lock ring is tight, to give access?

Do you need to remove the discs or can you devise a packing method that doesn't leave them exposed to potential damage?

OT: Are discs that vulnerable? I haven't flown with a disc bike (simply because I've not flown with a bike since I've been using disc bikes) but in over 10,000 miles (probably nearer 15,000) of riding them, having other bikes leant & locked against them, chucking them in (& on) cars, stowing them on trains (at least weekly) I've never had a noticeably bent rotor (with the one exception where I found some new discs warped slightly in early hard use - descending North Wales hills on a tandem - but self straightened when they cooled & stopped doing after a short while).

[StephenW]

A quick google tells me that Araldite has a shear strength of about 2500 psi. At a very rough guess, the surface area of the splines might be 2 sq. inches. A strength of 5000 pounds seems like plenty? The rotor would be utterly destroyed before you could apply a lateral force that high I think.

I could leave the lockring on initially, but done up very loose, so there is a gap between disc and lockring. I would keep the lockring in this position using loctite.

[Brucey]

the joint has a variable bond line thickness, and sees a whole load of mixed stresses as well as (in the long run) plenty of potentially corrosive spray. Not an ideal candidate for adhesive bonding.

Why not just carry a tool that will loosen the lockring if needs be? Suitable ones might vary depending on your bike and the rest of the toolkit you have but they start from 17g e.g.



https://bikerumor.com/2019/03/13/review-uniors-tiny-multi-purpose-pocket-lockring-tool-saves-the-day/

so if one of these works for you it is hardly likely to be burdensome to carry

cheers

[Mattyfez]

I'd just buy a pair of centerlock disks personally, you can pickup a decent pair for about £20


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-Deore-SMRT54S-Centre-silver/dp/B00971FSFK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=center%2Block%2Bdisc%2Bbrake%2Brotor&qid=1562870759&s=gateway&sprefix=Center%2Block%2B&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1