Left ergo to operate SA AW hub?

[rjb]

That's good. Is that an old Aw hub with the threaded driver?. Did you fit a longer axle.? Has the dropout had the gear hanger brazed on. ? The cable routing looks very neat, you must have given a lot of thought to were the braze on cable guides and stops were positioned.
Nice example of shedgineering there.

[fausto99]

Thanks for the kind comments. It is a 60s AW hub. I got the threaded driver separately. I used to be a more active Moulton Club member and cycle jumble attendee.
Yes it has the longer axle; as mentioned back up this thread, that's why I can't rely on the indicator rod to tell when I am in the optimum direct drive position with the cable.
I planned out and did all the repairs and braze-ons myself. The rear forks and gear hanger were brazed. The cable guides and bosses on the thinner frame tubes were silver soldered. Before I retired, I had access to oxy-acetylene gear.

[Mick F]

Was that driver a Cyclo?
If my memory serves me correctly, they were a popular mod back in the day.

As a yoof, me and my mate cobbled together two sprockets back-to-back on our AW machines. Took us up to the dizzy heights of 6sp gearing!

[Brucey]

Nice work!

I noticed the sprockets looked a bit odd. I would suggest that you try a chain with cambered inner side plates if the shifting isn't up to snuff.

BTW you can buy different length indicator rods to match the axle, and thus reclaim the indicator function. If the axle is a one-off then you could make the indicator to match. Another method that works OK if the rod is the wrong length is to use a paint mark and/or scribe mark on the toggle chain itself.

cheers

[fausto99]

Was that driver a Cyclo?

Sorry, I don't remember. I must have got it second hand in the 80s. I thought the original S-A 3 speed hubs all had threaded drivers which were replaced on later models with the three spline driver. I can't find my Hadland S-A book to confirm .

[fausto99]

BTW you can buy different length indicator rods to match the axle, and thus reclaim the indicator function. If the axle is a one-off then you could make the indicator to match. Another method that works OK if the rod is the wrong length is to use a paint mark and/or scribe mark on the toggle chain itself.

Good ideas. I'll investigate.

[Brucey]

Was that driver a Cyclo?

Sorry, I don't remember. I must have got it second hand in the 80s. I thought the original S-A 3 speed hubs all had threaded drivers which were replaced on later models with the three spline driver. I can't find my Hadland S-A book to confirm .

threaded drivers were used until the 1940s certainly. I have seen a 'hercules' branded hub (presumably made by SA) with a threaded driver too. There was also a different splined driver (with a threaded lockring I think) which was used on some hubs.

cheers

[fausto99]

Have now done a couple of club runs using the ergo lever setup my hybrid geared Moulton. The left ergo works OK-ish with the SA AW 3 speed but there are a few buts.
1. I sometimes forget which gear I'm in. I'd prefer being able to see the 3 posn. trigger.
2. It won't shift sometimes unless I backpedal. I don't recall that happening with the 3 posn. trigger.
3. On the road, the clicks don't seem anything like as clear and obvious as with the bike on a stand.
4. In just under 100 mile engaged neutral twice and jumped out of gear once.

All in all I am considering trying to fit a SA 3 speed trigger to the side of a drop brake lever. Not at all sure how atm but I'll think on't.

On the right, the 9speed Campag Ergo lever is absolute perfection with an old Shimano 105 6 speed derailleur and regular 6 speed block.
Also chamfering the corner of each tooth off has completely eliminated the chain riding/skating on the block tooth tops

[rjb]

Some riders fit the trigger on the end of the drops with the trigger pointing forward.

[Brucey]

the other option is a SL-S30 bar end shifter HSJ963



cheers

[fausto99]

the other option is a SL-S30 bar end shifter HSJ963

does that have indexed click stops?
Also what internal dia bars does it fit? I don't see it specc'ed on the SA datasheet http://www.sturmey-archer.com/files/cat ... 0THUMB.pdf

[fausto99]

the other option is a SL-S30 bar end shifter HSJ963
cheers

I would have to change handlebars. Mine are 22.8mm o.d. (I used 0.9mm shims under the ergo lever clamps)

[Brucey]

yes it has indexed positions, and a bar end shifter will typically fit about 19-20mm bore handlebars. Whether it fits your handlebars or not is dependant on the bore not the OD of course. IME bar end shifters fit 22.2mm OD bars which are made of steel for example, but not if they are made of aluminium. FWIW it would be a pain to do it (e.g. using a hand file) but it would be possible to modify the shifter to fit a smaller handlebar ID if necessary and that might be a good option if you have run out of other choices.

cheers

[fausto99]

yes it has indexed positions, and a bar end shifter will typically fit about 19-20mm bore handlebars. Whether it fits your handlebars or not is dependant on the bore not the OD of course. IME bar end shifters fit 22.2mm OD bars which are made of steel for example, but not if they are made of aluminium. FWIW it would be a pain to do it (e.g. using a hand file) but it would be possible to modify the shifter to fit a smaller handlebar ID if necessary and that might be a good option if you have run out of other choices.

Thanks. I may well try it. If the shifter comes apart I have a friend with a lathe...

[Brucey]

yes the shifter comes apart; in fact you can't fit it (or indeed any bar end shifter) without removing the lever from the mount, because you can't access the bolt otherwise. [FWIW a significant fraction of broken BE shifters arise from the fact that the lever base looks like it will go on one of four ways but actually only goes on one way, if you don't want it to break, that is.]

cheers