Cyclus head tube reaming and facing tool

[Foghat]

I have a frame that needs its head tube facing - I would prefer to do it myself, and be equipped for such capabilities in the future, so am prepared to make the investment. However, the only sensibly priced tool appears to be this Cyclus one.

The tool comes with what Cyclus terms a 'reamer' but is actually used to both ream and face the head tube with the two relevant cutting surfaces: reamer.

I understand facing and reaming to be separate processes; indeed, Chris King states: "Reaming and facing are two separate operations. Always perform reaming operations before facing operations. Do not attempt to perform both operations simultaneously as this will yield inconsistent results."

Since the head tube only needs facing, I don't what to do any unnecessary reaming as the interference fit of the Hope Traditional 1 1/8" Headset seems fine and I don't want to start making it any looser if that can be avoided. Hope's website dimension drawings state the OD of the cups is 34.10mm, and they require an ID of the head tube of 33.90mm - Cyclus produces reamers with 34.00mm or 33.80mm OD.

However, I cannot determine whether the Cyclus 'reamer' linked to above can be separated into the facing and reaming components so that each operation can be performed separately - and if it can, what keeps the facing cutter in place on the tool if the reaming cutter is not present? The image of it suggests it may be two separate pieces, but it's impossible to tell.

Does anyone have this specific tool and 'reamer', or have experience of using it, and can they answer this question of separate facing and reaming operations with the tool?

And is simultaneous facing/reaming actually that heinous a frame-finishing crime?

Thanks.

[PT1029]

It might be both types of cutters are made,
https://www.ra-co.de/fileadmin/Kataloge ... 019_Eng/8/ has on p8 3 boxes near the top ;-
head tube reamer ES, head tube reamer ZS/IS, and head tube facer.
The bigger image belowon p8 has the reamer and facer mounted together.
I couldn't read the instructions the zoom didn't seem to work much (and zoom out was infact zoom in for some reason).
Obviously need to get the right part number/diameter!

[gxaustin]

This picture possible suggests that the reamer and facer are separate cutters which can be fetted together. Maybe the facer could be used with a plain guide in place of the reamer? Thinking about it it would be difficult to manufacture a reamer/facer in one piece.
https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bicyc ... try_id=222

[SimonCelsa]

Is there not one of those bicycle cafe/workshops near you where you can rent a workstand & borrow their tools for in the region of £5/half hour?? It is a very nice tool to have (I recently acquired a used but good BB threading tool) but how often do you envisage using it? Just a suggestion, not judging.

[Valbrona]

Check out page 18 of the 2019 Cyclus catalogue, available in PDF.

The 'regualr' Cyclus headtube reamer/facer is exactly that - all the cutters for it are combined reamer/facer units that cannot be separated.

Buy the Snap-in version is different - takes separate facer and reamers. But not sure if they can be used separately.

[Brucey]

very much the easiest thing would be to let the LBS use their tool on the frame. Probably it is a combined tool (most are despite what CK say), and no, it isn't a heinous crime to do both operations at once for the simple reason that in most cases you are removing two-thirds of stuff-all from the diameter, probably mostly paint.

I also wouldn't stress about the possibility of the interference fit becoming too slack; in fact if I were 'king of the world' I might even choose to replace a lot of press-fit parts on bikes with sliding fits which are designed for assembly using an adhesive of some kind. This results in an assembly which doesn't have a preload in it, and largely avoids the risk of (say) splitting a very thin-walled head tube.

I'd also note that (if you have no choice and/or are prepared to spend the time) it is quite possible to do a first class job using only simple hand tools; a couple of files and a square, or even just some emery cloth (to dress the frame ID) and a file is enough. [A primary benefit of using reamers/facers in a bike shop is very simply that it saves time; if there were a quicker method that produced 'acceptably consistent' results they'd use that - as indeed they do in factories with many mass-produced frames/bikes.]

The method using the simplest hand tools works OK provided you accept that you might have to remove the headset parts at least once before the job is done. Of the four parts the top race alignment isn't adjusted (you are reliant on the straightness of the steerer and/or the quality of the threads on it), the crown race is checked first, then the set races (in the frame).

Any 'swash' in the crown race (or top race) is obvious; you rotate the forks in the frame and observe a fixed point on one of the set races.

Similarly any significant tilt in the set races is fairly obvious too; observe a fixed point on the crown race/top race (once they are running true) as you turn the forks; a variation in clearance indicates a set race that isn't square. Something as simple as bearing your thumbnail against the crown race as the fork is turned will very easily reveal swash in the neighbouring set race. With many modern headsets the forks can be fitted upside down temporarily too; this can help to check the upper set race against the (true running) crown race too.

Obviously both alignments can be more easily set/checked if you have more/better tools. You can also use other tricks such as introducing the steerer (with its races fitted) to the head tube and seeing where the turning races bear against the end faces of the head tube; any high spots in the set race seating will be evident.

More than one way to skin a cat and all that. Years ago I live in the sticks and my 'closest' LBS (a long way away in relation to my available transport) didn't have any of these tools anyway. I converted a frame/fork from (slightly wonky all round) 'English/JIS' to ISO using a file. It took ages (mostly because I had to take the crown race seating from 27.0 to 26.4mm diameter and get the seat square too) but the end result was 'perfect' and that frame was used with that headset in for at least another 25 years.

cheers

[gxaustin]

it is quite possible to do a first class job using only simple hand tools; a couple of files and a square

.... but time consuming, as I found when I used a long caliper, set square, file and feeler gauges to cure a wonky head tube. Seems to have worked though. The LBS didn't fancy working with titanium. In fact it filed easily. Should it have?

[rogerzilla]

The reamer and facer are separable on the Cyclus tool. I haven't tried the facer alone, so I don't know if it will work like that.

It does the job very well. I had to do a couple of chromed frames with it (this is not good for the tool) but it still faces other frames cleanly and doesn't chip the paint down the sides of the head tube.

There are no instructions with it so you have to know what you're doing. Basically, never turn it anti-clockwise, lubricate well with cutting oil and use three or four turns to add pressure after the locating cone first makes contact. For the best finish, take the pressure down to a minimum and turn the tool gently a couple of times - it shouldn't bind or judder at all.

I have also cut two forks down from 27.0 to 26.4 with the Cyclus crown race tool and that worked brilliantly.

[Foghat]

It might be both types of cutters are made,
https://www.ra-co.de/fileadmin/Kataloge ... 019_Eng/8/ has on p8 3 boxes near the top ;-
head tube reamer ES, head tube reamer ZS/IS, and head tube facer.
The bigger image belowon p8 has the reamer and facer mounted together.
I couldn't read the instructions the zoom didn't seem to work much (and zoom out was infact zoom in for some reason).
Obviously need to get the right part number/diameter!

Thanks - although that link seems to be dead.

[Foghat]

This picture possible suggests that the reamer and facer are separate cutters which can be fetted together. Maybe the facer could be used with a plain guide in place of the reamer? Thinking about it it would be difficult to manufacture a reamer/facer in one piece.
https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/bicyc ... try_id=222

Thanks - very interesting. Am wondering what I could use as a guide.....assuming one doesn't come with the tool if they can indeed be used separately (although I note Brucey's advice to ignore the Chris King position).

[Foghat]

Is there not one of those bicycle cafe/workshops near you where you can rent a workstand & borrow their tools for in the region of £5/half hour?

Possibly, but I'd prefer to have the tool delivered to my house and to conduct the requisite work in my own bike maintenance area.

I have another frame from the same supplier that I similarly distrust to have had its head tube faced (although I haven't actually assembled it to determine the truth of this assumption)......so quite possibly another facing operation in the near future too.

[Foghat]

Check out page 18 of the 2019 Cyclus catalogue, available in PDF.

The 'regualr' Cyclus headtube reamer/facer is exactly that - all the cutters for it are combined reamer/facer units that cannot be separated.

Buy the Snap-in version is different - takes separate facer and reamers. But not sure if they can be used separately.

Yes, I'd checked out that document, but as the close-up image elsewhere of the 'reamer' looks like its two separate parts slotted together (which Rogerzilla has now said are separable), I thought there was sufficient doubt to warrant real-world clarification from actual owners/users of the specific tool - particularly as the Snap.In one is quite a bit more expensive and seemingly not readily available.

[Foghat]

very much the easiest thing would be to let the LBS use their tool on the frame. Probably it is a combined tool (most are despite what CK say), and no, it isn't a heinous crime to do both operations at once for the simple reason that in most cases you are removing two-thirds of stuff-all from the diameter, probably mostly paint.

Thanks for the very useful response, Brucey. For me, the easiest thing is to have the right tool delivered to my house so I can do it myself!

I suspected that simultaneous reaming/facing may not be the end of the world, so thanks for confirming. Would still prefer to just face, though, but am prepared to go for the dual reamer/facer if it can't be separated, to save the substantial cost of an extra cutter - the particular Cyclus tool I'm contemplating seems to be the most economically viable one by some margin. I note Park goes heavy on separate cutters....but its tool and cutters are way overpriced from my perspective.

The frame is titanium, by the way, so no paint to ream out - anything special I need to be aware of for facing/reaming titanium?

I sort of followed your subsequent comments about determining where the alignment problems are with a misaligned fork/steerer/head tube. My first assumption is that it's the head tube rather than the crown race seat that is causing the problem. There is a very visible gap/separation between the headset top cover and upper race on one side of the steerer but not on the other, whilst the crown race appears to sit properly in the lower race - does that indicate it's the head tube faces being non-square and/or non-parallel and not a crown race seat problem? I have a couple of other forks to try fitting to check.....and I could try inverting the fork as you suggest.

[Foghat]

Dual post deleted

[Foghat]

.... but time consuming, as I found when I used a long caliper, set square, file and feeler gauges to cure a wonky head tube.

Yes - no way I've got the time or patience for that method!

The LBS didn't fancy working with titanium. In fact it filed easily. Should it have?

Hmmm.....interesting!