Shimano Brake Blocks
Shimano Brake Blocks
I need new blocks for my Shimano 105 BR650 brakes. The Shimano page for these callipers state R55C2 blocks.
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/ ... -R650.html
There's maybe a month or so left on them, but they need replacing asap.
It seems that R55C2 aren't anywhere I can find on the internet, but R55C3 are.
https://www.evanscycles.com/shimano-dur ... s-EV184109
I may be in Plymouth on Saturday, and I could pop in and buy a set.
What's the difference?
Is it that they've been superseded?
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/ ... -R650.html
There's maybe a month or so left on them, but they need replacing asap.
It seems that R55C2 aren't anywhere I can find on the internet, but R55C3 are.
https://www.evanscycles.com/shimano-dur ... s-EV184109
I may be in Plymouth on Saturday, and I could pop in and buy a set.
What's the difference?
Is it that they've been superseded?
Mick F. Cornwall
Re: Shimano Brake Blocks
There are loads of aftermarket blocks which work better. My experience of Shimano blocks is that they work OK but at the price of being very abrasive. Aztec, Ashima or Kool Stop come in a wider range of compounds.
Re: Shimano Brake Blocks
lots of different shimano compounds eg
https://www.bike24.com/p223208.html
I think the C3 models can replace the C2 models but are different. More here
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-BR-SHOE-ROAD-1326O.pdf
IMHO many OEM brake blocks get a bad reputation for rim wear that may not be entirely deserved; they are (of course) most often used new with new rims. New machined rims often release swarf (which is trapped in the surface during machining) and will do so into any brake block, turning it into a highly abrasive thing almost regardless of compound.
Fitting new brake blocks of any type will reduce swarf pickup because there are no more pieces of swarf to come out of the rim. Also you now know to check the brake blocks for pieces of embedded swarf etc so the chances of the same thing happening again are greatly reduced.
cheers
https://www.bike24.com/p223208.html
I think the C3 models can replace the C2 models but are different. More here
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-BR-SHOE-ROAD-1326O.pdf
IMHO many OEM brake blocks get a bad reputation for rim wear that may not be entirely deserved; they are (of course) most often used new with new rims. New machined rims often release swarf (which is trapped in the surface during machining) and will do so into any brake block, turning it into a highly abrasive thing almost regardless of compound.
Fitting new brake blocks of any type will reduce swarf pickup because there are no more pieces of swarf to come out of the rim. Also you now know to check the brake blocks for pieces of embedded swarf etc so the chances of the same thing happening again are greatly reduced.
cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: Shimano Brake Blocks
Thanks guys.
Good info there Brucey.
Looks like R55C3 could be better in the wet, but the ones I have are fine so I'm very happy with the brakes as they are.
Where are R55C2 blocks?
I'd like to swap like-for-like.
Does it matter if I go for the C3?
Good info there Brucey.
Looks like R55C3 could be better in the wet, but the ones I have are fine so I'm very happy with the brakes as they are.
Where are R55C2 blocks?
I'd like to swap like-for-like.
Does it matter if I go for the C3?
Mick F. Cornwall
Re: Shimano Brake Blocks
Every time I've used Shimano blocks they've picked up loads of aluminium from the braking surfaces of the rims and scored the rims. Admittedly I've avoided them for years now so not tried the latest.
Can you get Koolstop Salmon (the colour of the compound) inserts for your pad holders? They are the best I've tried for avoiding contamination.
Others here have recommended BBB Tristops though I've not tried them.
Can you get Koolstop Salmon (the colour of the compound) inserts for your pad holders? They are the best I've tried for avoiding contamination.
Others here have recommended BBB Tristops though I've not tried them.
Re: Shimano Brake Blocks
Swisstop is what you want - by far. The best pads i've used in all weathers/terrains. The one pair I replaced after 7000km were actually only half worn and would certainly have gone to 10k (in my spares box - well you never know!)
My experience of Shimano pads is that they are ok but uther brands are much better.
My experience of Shimano pads is that they are ok but uther brands are much better.
Convention? what's that then?
Airnimal Chameleon touring, Orbit Pro hack, Orbit Photon audax, Focus Mares AX tour, Peugeot Carbon sportive, Owen Blower vintage race - all running Tulio's finest!
Airnimal Chameleon touring, Orbit Pro hack, Orbit Photon audax, Focus Mares AX tour, Peugeot Carbon sportive, Owen Blower vintage race - all running Tulio's finest!
Re: Shimano Brake Blocks
Swisstop eh?
Never used them, but I've ordered a set from Evans Plymouth. Click and Collect, and I'll collect them later today.
These:
https://www.evanscycles.com/swissstop-f ... r-EV213790
I'll be trying them out as soon as I can. May not be until Monday, but whatever I think about them, rest assured that I'll be reporting about them on here!
Never used them, but I've ordered a set from Evans Plymouth. Click and Collect, and I'll collect them later today.
These:
https://www.evanscycles.com/swissstop-f ... r-EV213790
I'll be trying them out as soon as I can. May not be until Monday, but whatever I think about them, rest assured that I'll be reporting about them on here!
Mick F. Cornwall
Re: Shimano Brake Blocks
PS:
For info, the Shimano R22C2 pads which were brand new on the brand new brakes, have done 2,900miles.
They could possibly do another hundred or so, but yesterday on my 40mile ride, I was using the brakes rather sparingly so I would be much happier with them renewed.
For info, the Shimano R22C2 pads which were brand new on the brand new brakes, have done 2,900miles.
They could possibly do another hundred or so, but yesterday on my 40mile ride, I was using the brakes rather sparingly so I would be much happier with them renewed.
Mick F. Cornwall
Re: Shimano Brake Blocks
Home from town now.
I called in for a pint - or two - and had a look at the packet. I took a couple of photographs and tried to get online to the forum, but I kept getting my password wrong!
Any road up, here are the photos.
What I don't understand is the statement on the back about stopping distance. How does it compare to anything other than Swisstop pads?
It's meaningless as a figure.
What does 120N Hand Force mean when they don't know the brakes and brake levers you have?
I called in for a pint - or two - and had a look at the packet. I took a couple of photographs and tried to get online to the forum, but I kept getting my password wrong!
Any road up, here are the photos.
What I don't understand is the statement on the back about stopping distance. How does it compare to anything other than Swisstop pads?
It's meaningless as a figure.
What does 120N Hand Force mean when they don't know the brakes and brake levers you have?
Mick F. Cornwall
Re: Shimano Brake Blocks
http://www.swissstop.com/downloads/catalogue/2019/SwissStop2019_PUB_EN_sp_uLR.pdf
more detail here
http://www.swissstop.ch/tech/compounds
including (on one of the pages in the pdf) graphs showing retarding force vs lever pressure. This at least gives you the MA x mu value.
[120N at the lever gives ~570N retardation with BXP]. This suggests that MA x mu = ~ 4.75
One of the notable absences is the rate of rim wear and any differences in that depending on compound. 'Not their problem' perhaps....
I note with interest that they suggest that the 'original black' compound 'is well suited to softer alloys' which might be code for 'our other pads work every well but wear your rims out faster'.... dunno…
[edit it also says in the FAQs that the 'original black' compound are kindest to the rims...]
cheers
more detail here
http://www.swissstop.ch/tech/compounds
including (on one of the pages in the pdf) graphs showing retarding force vs lever pressure. This at least gives you the MA x mu value.
[120N at the lever gives ~570N retardation with BXP]. This suggests that MA x mu = ~ 4.75
One of the notable absences is the rate of rim wear and any differences in that depending on compound. 'Not their problem' perhaps....
I note with interest that they suggest that the 'original black' compound 'is well suited to softer alloys' which might be code for 'our other pads work every well but wear your rims out faster'.... dunno…
[edit it also says in the FAQs that the 'original black' compound are kindest to the rims...]
cheers
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: Shimano Brake Blocks
Just for completeness - i'm using Swisstop blue BXP's which are for Campag 10/11 brakes (not sure how the number of gears affects the brake blocks?)
Convention? what's that then?
Airnimal Chameleon touring, Orbit Pro hack, Orbit Photon audax, Focus Mares AX tour, Peugeot Carbon sportive, Owen Blower vintage race - all running Tulio's finest!
Airnimal Chameleon touring, Orbit Pro hack, Orbit Photon audax, Focus Mares AX tour, Peugeot Carbon sportive, Owen Blower vintage race - all running Tulio's finest!
Re: Shimano Brake Blocks
foxyrider wrote:Just for completeness - i'm using Swisstop blue BXP's which are for Campag 10/11 brakes (not sure how the number of gears affects the brake blocks?)
prior to 10s they used a different pattern of holder....?
cheers
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: Shimano Brake Blocks
9sp Campag holders are the same as 10sp and 11sp. Dunno about 8sp, but my old Victory had different holders to nowadays though.
Thanks Brucey for the links.
I hope these blocks are good. I've payed £19 for four bits of rubber.
Thanks Brucey for the links.
I hope these blocks are good. I've payed £19 for four bits of rubber.
Mick F. Cornwall
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Re: Shimano Brake Blocks
£19 on four bits of rubber and how much on booze?
Re: Shimano Brake Blocks
Two pints of 6X in Noah's Ark @ £3.20 per pint. It was a liquid lunch!
https://www.greatukpubs.co.uk/noahsarkplymouth
Any road up. Back to the Swisstop brake blocks ................
Just come back from a quick test ride. I say "quick" but it was slow really as I kept braking to bed the things in.
To be frank, I'm rather underwhelmed by these blocks. I've never ever EVER had to bed brakes in like these seem to need to. After 4miles of ups and downs and braking hard, braking soft and long, and braking all the way down hills I would normally fly down, they are no better from the moment I left the house.
The instructions are:
Bed in you new pads to achieve optimum performance.
On a gradual downhill slope, drag each brake lightly for 20 - 30 seconds, alternating between front and rear. Repeat 2 - 3 times.
Use caution and only very light force when using front brake only. Keep your weight over the rear wheel.
For best results, bed in new pads in dry conditions.
It was dry. Well, as dry as it could be round here in January. I did as per the instructions, and they're very lack-lustre indeed.
Hopefully time will tell, and they'll improve.
Mick F. Cornwall