Angle of drop handlebars - how to set?

[PH]

For transport - just get a bit of foam pipe lagging or similar and add it either to the top tube or the end of the bar before loading. Or work out a way to easily remove the front wheel, it shouldn't need to be wrestled out of the disc, and if you're reconnecting the lights frequently Schmidt do some nifty in-line connectors.
For position - it'll be a bit of trial and error, or you might be one of those lucky people that find anything comfortable, either way I wouldn't base the position on the transport requirements.

[Canuk]

I normally have the top of the bars dead level, I only use my eye to do so so. I find it's the position of the levers which is most important. I like mine tilted slightly upwards with a very slight incline (about 10 degrees) where the hands rest and angled in the way, not much, but certainly off angle dead on. I've been using that set up for about 25 years now and rarely suffer hand/wrist/elbow/shoulder or back problems.

At one time I would fastidiously measure the distance from the nose of the saddle to the handlebars and carry that from bike to bike. I do it by eye now, and as long as the top of my saddle to the centre of the bottom bracket doesn't vary by more than 1.5cm either way, I can get a perfect fit on just about any bike I've owned.

Be careful changing saddles because this will alter fit, because of varying height, width and reach. It's no problem for me because I've been using the same boring but comfortable saddle on all my bikes since 1998!

[MikeF]

As the bar end only just touches the top tube it sounds like a very minor bar adjustment angle would solve the problem. You may not even notice the difference at the hoods.

Some drop brake levers have spacers to set the lever nearer the bars, but in my limited experience drop bar levers seem to be less adjustable than flat bar levers. If you are having problems reaching the levers you may find that having the brake cable with slack in it may help. That way when the brakes are applied the lever will be nearer the bars. Unfortunately brake levers are generally made in a one size fits all, so if you have small hands or short fingers etc they are a problem.

[LittleGreyCat]

Thanking everyone for their input, I note that most posts talk about "before you tape the bars".

If you buy the bike with the bars already taped up (as I think most people will if they aren't building their own) then is it usual to untape the bars and then tinker and retape them? Perhaps several times?

My bars have extra foam and tape on for comfort and are very "tapey" so I'm not that keen on repeated winding and unwinding. Unless I really have to.

When I test rode the bike I chose the highest setting for the bars - I had ridden one with lower bars and that wasn't comfortable - and the bars feel right in the highest position so I don't want to lower them.

From limited experience so far I think I will be riding mainly on the hoods as I am a leisure (and hopefully touring) cyclist and views win over aero most days.

[reohn2]

Ah, the disc makes a difference. More chance of damaging it if you keep taking it out....

In theory maybe,but IME over a ten year period I've never damaged disc rotor carrying a solo or tandem in the car.
Simply drop out the front wheel put the bike in the car and wrap the wheel in an old sheet or blanket,put the now covered wheel on the bike disc rotor side up where nothing will be put or fall on top of it.


Disc wheels are easier to take out replace than rim brake wheels IME once the owner is used to the procedure.

[LittleGreyCat]

Still doesn't get round the hub dynamo wiring, though.

[pwa]

How about just making a hole in a tennis ball or something similar and popping it onto the end of the bars when the bike goes in the car.

[Paulatic]

:D Still doesn't get round the hub dynamo wiring, though.

B0C55C47-2346-4B76-8A39-9EF4E9B09199.jpeg (9.03 KiB) Viewed 303 times

Couldn’t be simpler and once or twice I’ve forgotten to unplug before removing the wheel and no harm done.

[reohn2]

How about just making a hole in a tennis ball or something similar and popping it onto the end of the bars when the bike goes in the car.

A good idea
Along with a lentpgth of split pipe lagging on the toptube

[LittleGreyCat]

How about just making a hole in a tennis ball or something similar and popping it onto the end of the bars when the bike goes in the car.

As usual, a minor hiccup.

Due to my desire to have the chain on the uphill side of the bike when parking it, the RHS bar end with the mirror on is the one under the frame.

Fortunately this doesn't affect the Cateye mirror, but is causing me some concern as I am contemplating fitting https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/accessories/sprintech-racing-road-mirrors-black/ which are likely to complicate the handlebar folding even further if the bars end up too close to the top tube.

I think I will probably try moving the bars just enough to tuck under the top tube and add some pipe insulation for additional protection.

[tatanab]

The answer is perfectly clear. You need a frame with a longer headtube which raises the front of the top tube so that your bars fit underneath. The existing frame can be downgraded for hack use. An excuse for n+1.

[PH]

:D Still doesn't get round the hub dynamo wiring, though.

B0C55C47-2346-4B76-8A39-9EF4E9B09199.jpeg

Couldn’t be simpler and once or twice I’ve forgotten to unplug before removing the wheel and no harm done.

There are IMO neater options, as mentioned upthread
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/dynamos/sch ... le-female/

[LittleGreyCat]

The answer is perfectly clear. You need a frame with a longer headtube which raises the front of the top tube so that your bars fit underneath. The existing frame can be downgraded for hack use. An excuse for n+1.

{Cough} I have only just bought the darn this for a bucket load of squids, so that isn't currently an option.

[scottg]

You need a Kashimax 5 Gold top tube protector, NJS certified .

http://www.velosolo.com/kashimax.html
CTC users use an old nappy and gaffer tape.

[LittleGreyCat]

Pipe insulation (or old hosepipe) it is then.