Shimano freehub body query

[Thornyone]

I would be grateful if anyone could advise me of the right freehub body I need to get to replace the original supplied with the Shimano FH T610 rear (9 speed) hub unit. In the past I have inadvertently ordered the wrong one, so I thought it wise to check this time. Also, should there be several options, is a pricier one worthwhile? I note that the whole hub unit seems fairly cheap, but I don’t want the whole thing.

Dave

[fastpedaller]

I don't know the answer to your question, however, can I ask why you need a replacement?

[Samuel D]

SJS Cycles have it. You can search the web for the part number listed there to find other options.

Sadly these are nearly as expensive as a new hub, probably because Shimano knows that avoiding a rebuild of the wheel is worth a fair bit to the average customer.

[Brucey]

according to
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-FH-T610-3515.pdf

you should buy either

a) assembly Y4FL 98090 (if you need the bolt, washer and dustcap) or

b) Y2D6 98050 if you don't. [edit I meant to type Y3D6 98050 as Samuel points out above...]

The latter is the same pn as is used in FH-M590 and FH-T670 which means there are more options, eg


assembly Y3D698040 (complete freehub assy for FH-T670/T660) will work provided you are happy to re-use your washer

http://www.sjscycles.com/Drawings/Shimano/Shimano_Deore_LX_FH-T670_Tech_Doc.pdf

Quite often a sticky freehub will free off (wake up) if it is simply lubed properly. The first really cold spell in winter means that freehub bodies which have dried grease and/or traces of moisture inside them often betray themselves by freezing up and going into hibernation. if they are properly lubed (with something rather more fluid) they work properly even in extreme cold.

cheers

[Thornyone]

Many thanks for the answers. I may not need to actally replace the freehub body yet but I’m ordering one “just in case”. What I am planning to do is replace the cassette, and on a previous occasion it was simply impossible to unscrew the cassette from the freehub body (attached to the wheel). Even using a very long spanner to hold the official splined removal tool I simply ended up breaking the chain whip, making a mess of the removal tool, and almost suffering a hernia. So, since I don’t want to find myself bikeless whilst awaiting a replacement body (should the worst happen), I’ll have one ready in advance. Maybe overkill, I know. Admittedly I have replaced many cassettes over the years, but once bitten...

[Samuel D]

Brucey has a typo in the second digit of Y3D698050, above.

If you’re buying just in case, it might be worth getting a whole hub while they’re still available, given the high price of this spare part as a portion of the hub price. Then you’d have a spare freehub body, spare skewer, spare axle, spare seals, spare balls, spare cones – indeed, enough spare parts to make a hub! Just a thought.

[geomannie]

Hi

Sadly these are nearly as expensive as a new hub, probably because Shimano knows that avoiding a rebuild of the wheel is worth a fair bit to the average customer.

I too have found that buying a freehub on its own is similar in price to a complete hub. IMHO you are better to go for the whole hub, even if a bit dearer, and use the bits as you need them. Today it might be the freehub that wants replacing, next year perhaps the drive-side cone will be away. You now have a spare.

Cheers

[Thornyone]

Thanks, that is a sensible suggestion about going for the entire unit.

Dave

[Samuel D]

On the other hand (sorry!), getting a freehub off a loose hub may be a job without a laced rim to use as leverage. Perhaps the hub flanges could be grasped in a rubber-jawed vice. I haven’t tried it.

[fastpedaller]

On the other hand (sorry!), getting a freehub off a loose hub may be a job without a laced rim to use as leverage. Perhaps the hub flanges could be grasped in a rubber-jawed vice. I haven’t tried it.

Solved.... In another thread.
Remove axle and cones. Mount 10mm allen key in vice. Put an old (or indeed a new) cassette onto slines (just loosely will do). Slide freehub 'retaining bolt' into position on allen key. Using a chain wrench, locate it on a sprocket and turn clockwise whilst holding hub to steady it. Retaining bolt will loosen. Now (if you so wish, just hold hub in hand and remove retaining bolt by turning allen key in the normal way. Unless the hub is then built up into a rim it's not possible to hold the hub to re-tighten, because the freehub will then freewheel.