bgnukem wrote:Assuming the caliper has only one moving pad, then using the manual adjuster on the static pad, screw it inwards a few turns, then re-set the caliper position as before by pulling the brake on, then releasing and re-tightening the caliper mounting bolts, then back off the adjustable pad a few turns to obtain clearance between the adjustable pad and the rotor. You might also need to use the cable adjuster to back off the other pad (reduce cable tension) to ensure clearance at that side.
If the brake still rubs and there's too much free travel at the brake lever before the brake activates then it suggests the rotor might be bent.
If so, it can be carefully bent back into line using a large adjustable spanner adjusted to grip the rotor and lever it gently inwards or outwards (i.e. towards / away from the frame).
If its a TRP Spyre, which has 2 moving pads, then each is adjustable individualy. Once you have the brakes set up - following the TRP video on Youtube, paying attention to the angle of the actuating arm and ensuring the cables are routed correctly on it (mine weren't), then with the bike off the groind spin the wheel and gradually adjust each pad in/out. For the outer pad this can be done while the wheel is spinning, for the inner pad you will need a long allen key and will need to stop the wheel to make each (tiny!) adjustment.
The video is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPTK0yEUI5s
, you can start about 2 minutes in!
With bit of patience you will soon get the knack whatever the type of brake. As things settle down you'll need to re-do the operation a couple of times.
Brompton, Condor Heritage, creaky joints and thinning white (formerly grey) hair
""You know you're getting old when it's easier to ride a bike than to get on and off it" - quote from observant jogger !