Cycling UK Forum

fastpedaller wrote:I tend to use Silkolene RG2 grease...

Brilliant. Ordered, thanks

Hi,
Same price at Halfords

Special tool didn't fit. It's a different size from other Shimano pedals. In the meantime the bearing tightened again and crushed the ball bearings into dust and pedal self destructed.
Basically they aren't serviceable - if they need servicing then it's already too late. But they do need lubricating but WITHOUT dismantling.
A lesson learnt!

TL-PD33 is definitely the correct tool for the job.

However I have heard of TL-PD33 'not fitting' once before now. IIRC what was required was to take some burrs off/re-radius the corner of the locknuts or something.

cheers

Another shout for Silkolene Pro RG2. Been using it for years and seems to last well enough in wet conditions.

It's formulated for motorcycle bearings, perhaps a bit thicker than ideal for bike bearings (NLGI 2) but it becomes more fluid with use and I put it in my freehub bodies rather than oil.

As for pedals, been using Wellgo WPD801 for years and the bearings seem to last forever, if periodically greased by filling the end cap with grease and gradually tightening it up while spinning the pedal - pushes fresh grease along the axle. Easier than re-greasing Shimano pedals with the cartridge axle.

Only downside (theoretically) is the Wellgos use a simple sleeve inner bearing which might have more drag than a rolling element bearing. Not sure how much of an actual disadvantage this is though when the interior of both types of pedal are full of grease, which I guess also drags on the axle as the pedal body rotates.....

re plain bushings; you don't feel the worst of the drag because it only happens under load. But it is there alright! You could fill a ball bearing up with tar and it would still be about as efficient as a bushing.

If plain bushrings were not inefficient in bicycles it is literally the case that ball bearings wouldn't have been invented. Early bicycles had plain bearings and racing machines with ball bearings were clearly a lot faster so that's why we have ball bearings. Bicycles were one of the first widespread applications for ball bearings and were responsible for the demand that allowed the first mass-production of ball bearings to be undertaken.

FWIW the manufacturer's own data for the sort of plain bushings that are found in pedals suggest between x10 and x100 more friction than with a half-decent ball bearing.

cheers

this shows PD-M324 with 'O' rings fitted in place of the original seals. Easy to install, works well, costs pennies.

[edit; the O rings I used were 12.7mm ID, 17.5mm OD, ~2.4mm cross section, i.e. 1/2" bore, 3/32" section]

cheers

Hi,
Needs some lube so not to wear away on body or are they a loose fit.
Stuff then sticks to the lube.

if they are sized correctly then the inboard one (nearest the crank) is on the radiused part of the spindle and exerts some axial load on the outboard one. In a short time the outboard one wears against the pedal body and this in turn reduces the load applied by the inboard one as it slides down the radius on the spindle. Things pretty soon settle down. If you have forced grease through the pedal recently (from the dustcap end) no additional lube is required, there is plenty there already.

IME any dirt that sticks to the outside of the seal is going nowhere, so who cares if there is a little...?

cheers

Hi,
The whole thing is similar to my cheap wellgo pedals which I use to get a good size area for my feet, not that I have big feet 9.5-10.
I find that many pedals of this type rat trap with races are too small, mine are double sided rat trap no clipless, but similar model does come with clipless attachment, which I have, the attachment is an option with different model number WPD 981, like I said I have them for their wide rat trap cage.

Cant find dims for cage on the shimano pedal m324?
When they size pedals sizes are the cage or the dim from outer cage to pedal spindle thread mating face?

Anyway it has a lip seal and they tend to pop out, tried gluing in but in the end just used mini cable ties plastic two on each spindle and they now stay in.

in PD-M324 the cage is ~66mm x 100mm, i.e. it sticks out from the shoulder/crank by 100mm. The clipless mechanism is centred ~53mm out.

cheers

Brucey wrote:in PD-M324 the cage is ~66mm x 100mm, i.e. it sticks out from the shoulder/crank by 100mm. The clipless mechanism is centred ~53mm out.

cheers

The wellgo wpd981 sticks out 110mm from crank arm.
With cage 98 x 64 mm.
9-10 shoe is 4" wide.
So I couldn't use a narrower pedal cage.
I use clips not clipless, wider cages don't appear to exist unless you go for shaped bmx design then difficult to add toe clips?

Bearings on the wellgo aren't up to shimano quality.
But can be had for less than £20 if you can find them.

I've got some "MONZA" brand M324 copies. £19.99
The have the traditional locking washer between the cone and locknut.
Ball bearings inboard & out.
Makes you wonder why "Shimano" didn't go down that route.
Easy to service and adjust without special tools.
Did have the problem of the inboard seal's moving to start with but they seem to have settled down with use and stay in now.

nigelnightmare wrote:I've got some "MONZA" brand M324 copies. £19.99
The have the traditional locking washer between the cone and locknut.
Ball bearings inboard & out.
Makes you wonder why "Shimano" didn't go down that route.
Easy to service and adjust without special tools.
Did have the problem of the inboard seal's moving to start with but they seem to have settled down with use and stay in now.

Interesting.
Do you have a link?

ISTR 'Monza' pedals were ones I got from Lidl and used for several years until one cone got a small pit, so I decided to go for Shimano M520's which I find easier to used with my SPD shoes as both sides are the same, but I can appreciate it's sometimes useful to have a plain side
IMHO the Monza pedals were excellent - I thought they looked like they were made by Wellgo, but that was only a hunch