Are new chain links tighter than old ones?

[horizon]

This is probably an obvious question but . . .

I was putting a new chain on my folder (last step in the new drive chain). AFAICS (and you are welcome to comment on this as well!), it needed to be shortened - I estimated by about 5 or more links.

I used a standard chain link remover tool which I've used easily and successfully on other chains. This time however it was almost impossible to get the pin to shift. I didn't want to extend the handles of the tool as that might have simply damaged the tool or made a bad situation worse. Finally it came free.

Was I doing something wrong or was it that the links are tighter on a new chain? It was an 8 speed chain.

[Brucey]

more to do with how the chain was made than whether it was new or not, I'd have said. What type of chain was it?

cheers

[fausto99]

Short answer- often yes, they are, as they use the modern 10/11 speed type riveting.

Try to source an 8 speed chain where the pin riveting is not a complete circular peening but rather a diametric deformation. Then you can un-rivet and re-rivet. Otherwise you’ll have to use a quick link as the removal damages the side plates.

[horizon]

The chain is this one:

https://spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s111p2700/K ... 28X8-93%29

The missing link (quick link) worked well and the whole operation would have been fine had I not had to reduce the chain size.

[Brucey]

KMC X8-93



those pins look bull-eye-esque to me, and i'd expect them to be difficult to push out.

cheers

[Des49]

KMC X8-93
those pins look bull-eye-esque to me, and i'd expect them to be difficult to push out.
cheers

I use these chains on a few bikes, the pins do need a strong effort to push out. I use an old Rohloff chain tool which is well made, accurate and with a decent sized handle. But with something smaller it may prove a struggle. I do notice a little ring of metal is formed when the pin is pushed out.

[horizon]

Many thanks for all the replies - they've been really helpful. I've drawn a couple of conclusions from this and if you like to comment further that would be great:

1. The chain is a good, strong one, provided I don't need to remove links. So I could use this type of chain when I actually need the 116 links.
2. I will have to look out for (as fausto99 says) a different type of pin if I want to be able to repair or alter the chain, especially by the roadside.
3. There might be a trade-off between a strong chain that is hard to alter/repair and a weaker chain that is easy to do so.
4. It would sensible (for me) to stick to a standard chain tool and look for easier chains.

BTW I have fitted the chain now (with some effort!) and it all works fine. Any recommendations for an easier chain of course appreciated.

Many thanks again.

[Des49]

I find these KMC chains very good and well worth using. None of my bikes use the full length chain.

Carry a spare quick link in your saddle bag and a small chain tool, a reasonable quality tool should be fine to push out a pin. The quick links can easily be closed on the bike but sometimes I do find opening one without a tool for that purpose (which I don't carry) not easy. Though I have never needed to do so out on the road.

[Brucey]

FWIW the cheaper KMC 'Z' series 8s chains still have the older style peening on the rivets, so are easier to deal with. They probably don't wear as well either, though.

If you need to deal with a 'difficult' chain by the roadside one of the better (small, portable) chain tools is the Park Tool CT5. This has a pushing pin which has a radiused 'nose' to it, which is designed to locate well in 'bullseye' type chain rivets. This radius is however quickly damaged if you use the tool on non-bullseye chains, so it is best to stick to one type with any one chain tool, if you can.

A lot of chain tools which are built in to multitools are not capable of reliably dealing with modern chains. If you need to repair such a chain then a spare quicklink is the way. Another tool which can help to dismantle the damaged link is a small pair of pliers; using these you can often wiggle a side plate back and forth until the rivet comes free. You might still need a chain tool to push the (mushroomed) rivet through the last undamaged link, but pretty much any chain tool will manage this much.

cheers

[colin54]

I just tried splitting a link on a spare piece of this same chain, it does require a bit of force and parts with an audible crack, as you are removing the edge of the peened end of the pin as it's forced through the side plate. The tool I used has a chamfered end on the extractor pin, it may be a Pedros ? I've split quite a few of this type of chain with this tool with no issues for about the past 7 or 8 years..
Note the little circles of material from the end of previously removed pins if you look on the shaft of your chain tool you may find one, that's what requires the force.I'd rather have a chain that's hard to part for reliabilities sake I think. I carry this tool a couple of quick links and a small length of chain, I've only repaired other peoples so far, touch wood.

Edit:Some chain tools tested here...
https://cyclingtips.com/2018/10/the-bes ... -reviewed/

[Manc33]

I have found it is hit and miss where every now and then a pin is really difficult to push out, while one next to it might be a lot easier (yes on a new chain).