10s chain cleaning - once more around the buoy

[David9694]

1. On or off bike?
1A if on - which device?
1B if off - how?
2. What cleaner/ de-greaser?
3. Pros and cons - how clean, how messy, how long, how costly?
4 for completeness - what lube?

Any procedure has got to be not too much hassle as I’m less likely to do a procedure that is long and messy. I say 10s - could be any chain type where you can’t keep taking the chain on and off with complete impunity. I’m in enough trouble with my wife, without making more mess and having my rotating chain hanging up like my uncle’s home-grown tobacco.

I occasionally go the off-bike jewellery cleaner route, but mostly it’s a clip-on device like Barbieri, being less than £10. I haven’t ever strayed far from citrus based cleaners - not so far the ones that are flammable and/or caustic if they get where they shouldn’t. Should I be looking at these?

I find the chain has a bit of foam on it after this treatment. I leave it to dry off and help it along with a rag before re-lubing.

I’m currently on TF-2 for wet and Fenwicks for dry.

[Brucey]

it sounds like you already have a method; in what way (s) would you like to improve it, exactly?

cheers

[Eyebrox]

I remove the chain and place it in a round Tupperware container, spray in some WD40 or GT85 and give the whole thing a shake. I clean the dirt and light oil off using a paper towel and re-attach the chain to the bike, then drip some wet lube onto the links. I leave it like this until my next cycle when I run a paper towel along the length of the chain. The amount of spray oil and lube used is minimal. I would use degreaser about once a year for a major drivetrain clean-up. I never have chain or cassette problems.

[Valbrona]

I remove the chain and place it in a round Tupperware container, ....

Those quick links have a limit to the number of times they can be split and re-joined, so I do my cleaning with the chain on the bike.

[NickJP]

Removing chains for cleaning is too much stuffing around. I just use one of the Park cyclone cleaners that clamp onto the lower run of the chain. Three changes of solvent (usually mineral turps), rotating the cranks about a dozen times each time, clean the chainring and cassette teeth with a brush, use a paper towel to wipe excess solvent off the chain, chainrings, and cassette, then apply a drop of lubricant to each chain roller. This seems to work pretty well - I just replaced the chain on my wife's principal road bike after one year and ~12000km of use, and hanging the used chain up and measuring the length of 24 links with a good quality vernier calipler, I get 12.035", which equates to 0.3% wear. On my own bikes I go through chains a bit faster, being a bit heavier and somewhat more powerful - I probably get about 8000km before I'm at about the same point of wear.

[Eyebrox]

Removing chains for cleaning is too much stuffing around ... three changes of solvent (usually mineral turps), rotating the cranks about a dozen times each time, clean the chainring and cassette teeth with a brush, use a paper towel to wipe excess solvent off the chain, chainrings, and cassette, then apply a drop of lubricant.

Taking the chain off takes all of a minute. Putting it back on takes just as long.

[NickJP]

Taking the chain off takes all of a minute. Putting it back on takes just as long.

But why bother?

[Eyebrox]

Taking the chain off takes all of a minute. Putting it back on takes just as long.

But why bother?

It's quicker and more thorough. No need to change solvent three times.

[NickJP]

Taking the chain off takes all of a minute. Putting it back on takes just as long.

But why bother?

It's quicker and more thorough. No need to change solvent three times.

But if you ain't changing the bath of whatever you are cleaning the chain in, you're not getting it particularly clean. Small abrasive particles will remain in suspension for quite a long time - that's how fine grit sizes of abrasive powder for tasks such as lens grinding are separated into consistent particle sizes.

[mattheus]

I say 10s - could be any chain type where you can’t keep taking the chain on and off with complete impunity.

[Brucey]

rinsing repeatedly in clean solution is best of course but whether 'dirty' solution leaves a residue on the chain is dependant on how much muck is in the cleaning solution to start with (could be very dilute and/or have fallen to the bottom of the tank or stuck to a magnet already) and whether the chain is blown dry with compressed air, dabbed dry with a clean rag/towel, drip/centrifugally dried, or the solvent is simply allowed to evaporate. Between all these things you might expect to get a factor of ~x100 (or more) more or less crud in the chain bushings.

cheer

[thecycleclinic]

Use a lube that cleans the chain as you lube.

[PaulCS]

Hi
1. I use two chains which I alternate every 500 miles so use a quick link joiner in each. In my experience the quick links can be reused even in 11s but I always carry a spare just in case. The only time my chain broke was on a virtually new bike and it wasn't at the quick link.
2. Clean the chain on the bike using a toothbrush and white spirit. Do this twice.
3. Remove the chain. Place in a glass container and swirl gently in white spirit twice. Then dry with a clean cloth and in the air. Lubricate, working the lubricant into the chain. Store in an empty margarine container with a lid.
4. Clean the cassette, front chain rings and rear derailleur rollers.
5. Select 2nd chain and install with the quick link. Lubricate using dry or wet depending on the time of the year or weather.
6. I even filter the used white spirit with a coffee filter.
7. My chains last for 5,000 miles each and the cassette for the 10,000 miles and I record when the maintenance has been done.
8. I am not a totally fairweather cyclist but I suppose 80% of my cycling is not in heavy rain.
9. OK, I am retired so have time but even when I worked I followed the same procedure. I also have a very understanding wife but admit I do spend too much time working on my bike(s)