Cable lacing

[mnichols]

Probably not calling this the right thing, but I'm building a bike from scratch and need a guide, video or hints and tips on how to setup the cables on the handlebars of a road bike.

Is there a correct way? What goes on top, what goes over, under, how long to cut the outers, etc

Also there seem to be lots of new ferrels, they have a small amount of cable coming out of them. There seems to be too many gear ones and not enough brake ones, and there is no setup guide.
The shifters are Ultegra 6800 on a drop handlebar road bike.

The frame has external cable routing

Any help gratefully received.

[richardfm]

Don't you just make sure the cables are routed so that there are no tight turns and minimise points where they can rub against each other or the frame?

[mnichols]

Don't you just make sure the cables are routed so that there are no tight turns and minimise points where they can rub against each other or the frame?

Maybe, that's the question. I think I know what to do but cables and outers are expensive so I want to check before I start cutting

[Brucey]

the ferrule you need will vary depending on the frame, the levers, the cable housing that you intend to use. In many cases shimano STIs for dropped bars require no ferrules at the brake lever end if the correct shimano cables (or ones of similar diameter) are used. However frames vary enormously and so do ferrules accordingly.

The correct cable routing will vary with the frame , the brake caliper type and the way you like your brakes set up. If you are a 'front brake right lever' type (standard UK setup and many professional racers of all nationalities too) then you will need a different cable routing to that used by many continental types.

FWIW some folk find it easier to run the rear gear cable into the LH DT cable stop, and the cross the gear cables over before they reach the BB; this can make for a better cable run with underbartape cables.

If you are unsure and think that further adjustment may yet be required, try the bike out with a provisional setup, i.e. without full bar tape ( just enough to secure the cables) and leaving the inners full length so that the (hopefully welded) ends can be re-fed if necessary. This will allow cables to be shortened and/or rerouted if necessary.

cheers

[mnichols]

I am running right hand lever to rear brake

Cables are under the bar tape

[nsew]

Don’t cut anything until it’s all satisfactorily routed with good curvature. Don’t forget to withdraw the inner cable before cutting the outer. Been there unfortunately.

[nsew]

Here’s a rim brake bike with your desired brake cable routing.

https://road.cc/content/tech-news/22375 ... turn-heads

[mnichols]

Here’s a rim brake bike with your desired brake cable routing.

https://road.cc/content/tech-news/22375 ... turn-heads

Perfect.

[mnichols]

I will leave the cables a bit too long at the moment as its a new setup and therefore I might change:

- The stem length - I'm experimenting with a very short stem ATM.
- The position of the shifters on the bar. I'm using flared drops so the position has to be perfect
- The number of spacers under the stem. It's currently slammed but don't think it will stay there
- The angle of the bar. TBH This is unlikely to change or if it does is unlikely to have much impact

Even once I have these adjusted I need to allow a little extra length so that I can lift the bars off and turn for packing/flying