I'm looking at replacing my Athena compact crankset.
When they dropped Athena it seemed that Potenza was the closest replacement line.
If I get a Potenza ultra torque in the newer 4 arm design will that fit the Athena ultra torque ?
I'm assuming Chorus would be the same fit also, and the difference in cost between Chorus and Potenza is down to weight.
I also read that Potenza HO is designed for disc brakes. I'm afraid i can't see how the width of the dropouts effects the crankset?
Athena crankset replacement
Re: Athena crankset replacement
As far as I understand Athena and Potenza are "power-torque" chainsets not "ultratorque" Just being a bit pedantic. 
As it is any 11 speed power-torque Campag' chainset should just be a straight swap.
As it is any 11 speed power-torque Campag' chainset should just be a straight swap.
You'll never know if you don't try it.
Re: Athena crankset replacement
Campag bottom brackets (in recent years) are either Ultra torque or Power torque. You need to use the one that both fits the frame and matches the crankset you are using.
Most Campag chainsets are designed to fit traditional road bikes which are 130mm OLN at the rear, use narrow tyres, and have narrow-set chainstays.
Chainsets which are meant for a disc brake-equipped bike may have
- a slightly different chainline and/or
- slightly wider 'Q' value
This is so that the cranks and chainrings clear the chainstays on 'gravel' style bikes (and similar that use fatter tyres) which may have a wider set at this point; a kind of halfway house to MTB stuff if you like. The chainline adjustment is small enough that most folk wouldn't bother with that by itself, and arguably (depending on how many sprockets you have at the back) it isn't needed anyway.
cheers
Most Campag chainsets are designed to fit traditional road bikes which are 130mm OLN at the rear, use narrow tyres, and have narrow-set chainstays.
Chainsets which are meant for a disc brake-equipped bike may have
- a slightly different chainline and/or
- slightly wider 'Q' value
This is so that the cranks and chainrings clear the chainstays on 'gravel' style bikes (and similar that use fatter tyres) which may have a wider set at this point; a kind of halfway house to MTB stuff if you like. The chainline adjustment is small enough that most folk wouldn't bother with that by itself, and arguably (depending on how many sprockets you have at the back) it isn't needed anyway.
cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~