Bar ends and thick bar tape
Bar ends and thick bar tape
Hi all - new to the forum so hello! I searched and couldn’t find anything on this. I’ve just got my first gravel bike and I’ve put the bar tape on. All the videos online from Park and other said to start at the end of the bars and work in. They said to lap the tape over the end of the bars then tuck it in and then push the bar end in to secure it. Now the bar tape that came with my Cannondale is very thick and it’s nigh on impossible to bend it around the whole circumference of the bar whilst pushing the bar end in. Does anyone have hints on how to do this with the bar tape - it’s more like thick foam/rubber than tape. Thanks!
Re: Bar ends and thick bar tape
I have done this job many times and always start at the bar end so that the overlap faces downwards and the tape doesn’t curl over with downward pressure of the hands.
At each end start at the top face and wrap inward. Start square to the bar so you have 5mm of tape edge inside the end bungs then start along the bar wrapping with a small amount of tension in the tape and 5 to 10mm of overlap. Be aware some tape is barely long enough so make use of the two short sections around the shifter clamps (hold the ends down with insulation tape). This will allow you to continue the direction of spiral past the brake lever and avoid using more tape by doing a figure of 8. Also this allows the tape to end facing backwards which reduces the likelihood of unwrapping when pulling with hands ‘on the tops’. Finish with a diagonal cut of the tape so it finishes square to the bar and for max neatness it should end under the bar. Use insulation tape not the rigid rubbish that comes with most tape and cut the corners off to prevent snagging.
At each end start at the top face and wrap inward. Start square to the bar so you have 5mm of tape edge inside the end bungs then start along the bar wrapping with a small amount of tension in the tape and 5 to 10mm of overlap. Be aware some tape is barely long enough so make use of the two short sections around the shifter clamps (hold the ends down with insulation tape). This will allow you to continue the direction of spiral past the brake lever and avoid using more tape by doing a figure of 8. Also this allows the tape to end facing backwards which reduces the likelihood of unwrapping when pulling with hands ‘on the tops’. Finish with a diagonal cut of the tape so it finishes square to the bar and for max neatness it should end under the bar. Use insulation tape not the rigid rubbish that comes with most tape and cut the corners off to prevent snagging.
Last edited by peetee on 3 May 2020, 1:42pm, edited 6 times in total.
The older I get the more I’m inclined to act my shoe size, not my age.
Re: Bar ends and thick bar tape
If I can't make a nice tuck into the end with the plug in then I cut the tape off square and run a single width of adhesive tape around the end.
Me too.
Jonathan
peetee wrote:I have done this job many times and always start at the bar end so that the overlap faces downwards and the tape doesn’t curl over with downward pressure of the hands.
Me too.
Jonathan
Re: Bar ends and thick bar tape
if you are wrapping inwards (i.e. towards the bar centre), there is something to be said for starting the wrap with a tapered cut in the tape end, and little or no overlap into the end of the handlebar. If you have some double-sided tape a little of this helps secure the start, even with tape that isn't very sticky and/or you don't want to overlap much because it is very thick.
IMHO you are always best off using end plugs bought separately, preferably of the expanding type; these can stay when you renew the tape. If you use the (almost invariably crappy) plugs that come with the tape, and start the wrap with a tapered cut as suggested, the plugs (which would otherwise be very loose in the bar) can be fitted in the bar ends using small offcuts of tape, when you have finished the main wrap. The plugs that come with tape are usually so poor that they are easily knocked out of the bar ends, and if you use them to secure the start of the wrap then this can cause the whole lot to start unravelling.
FWIW some tapes work very well when wrapped outwards, but not all. An advantage of wrapping inwards is that in some cases it is possible to unwrap the tape from the tops, then maintain/replace brake and gear cable housings beneath, then rewrap using the original tape.
cheers
IMHO you are always best off using end plugs bought separately, preferably of the expanding type; these can stay when you renew the tape. If you use the (almost invariably crappy) plugs that come with the tape, and start the wrap with a tapered cut as suggested, the plugs (which would otherwise be very loose in the bar) can be fitted in the bar ends using small offcuts of tape, when you have finished the main wrap. The plugs that come with tape are usually so poor that they are easily knocked out of the bar ends, and if you use them to secure the start of the wrap then this can cause the whole lot to start unravelling.
FWIW some tapes work very well when wrapped outwards, but not all. An advantage of wrapping inwards is that in some cases it is possible to unwrap the tape from the tops, then maintain/replace brake and gear cable housings beneath, then rewrap using the original tape.
cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: Bar ends and thick bar tape
peetee wrote:I have done this job many times and always start at the bar end so that the overlap faces downwards and the tape doesn’t curl over with downward pressure of the hands.
At Each end start at the top face and wrap inward. Be aware some tape is barely long enough so make use of the two short sections around the shifter clamps (hold the ends down with insulation tape). This will allow you to continue the direction of spiral past the brake lever and avoid using more tape by doing a figure of 8. Also this allows the tape to end facing backwards which reduces the likelihood of unwrapping when pulling with hands ‘on the tops’. Finish with a diagonal cut of the tape so it finishes square to the bar and for max neatness it should end under the bar. Use insulation tape not the rigid rubbish that comes with most tape and cut the corners off to prevent snagging.
Spot on!
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"All we are not stares back at what we are"
W H Auden
"All we are not stares back at what we are"
W H Auden
Re: Bar ends and thick bar tape
Hi thanks for the replies, I didn’t get notification that anyone had replied!
Re: Bar ends and thick bar tape
nageVehT wrote:...Now the bar tape that came with my Cannondale is very thick and it’s nigh on impossible to bend it around the whole circumference of the bar whilst pushing the bar end in. Does anyone have hints on how to do this with the bar tape - it’s more like thick foam/rubber than tape. Thanks!
Yup! It’s very fiddly, may take quite a few goes and would be easier with three or four hands!
Re: Bar ends and thick bar tape
I wish someone would come up with a tool to get an even bar wrap.
Re: Bar ends and thick bar tape
I prefer the screw in type rubber plugs but if I do use a push in one I feel that a smack from a rubber mallet is essential. If it doesn't need that it isn't tight enough. Smack it one.
Re: Bar ends and thick bar tape
I use these from HubJub. Loosen the screw to the end, push the bung into your handlebar as far as it will go. Then with an allen key or blunt screwdriver stuff the bar tape in to the gap behind the bung. Then tighten up the cap to hold it all in place (and keep stuffing the bar tape in). Makes a very neat job, even with really thick bar tape. (And they look pretty).
https://www.hubjub.co.uk/nitto-ec-01-ba ... -132-p.asp
https://www.hubjub.co.uk/nitto-ec-01-ba ... -132-p.asp
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