IGH Drop bar commuting bike

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Brucey
Posts: 44667
Joined: 4 Jan 2012, 6:25pm

Re: IGH Drop bar commuting bike

Post by Brucey »

jimlews wrote:...Would that "about 20k" be in spite of any fastidious lubrication/ servicing regimen, or could that milage be extended significantly with such.
and
Does the design exhibit any of the traditional Sturmey 'pratfalls', such as insufficiently supported planet pinions, pawl tips running on alloy etc.?

The only reason I ask is that I was 'gifted' one a while back; it is presently enjoying a life of leisure in my attic and I had the curious notion that it should be put back to work. It has some sort of brake attached so is likely doubly a "friction box".


20k is as reported by a contributor here who had just used the hub (in a 26" wheel I think) with the factory lube in it, for a few years of commuting. The pinions are made with integral stub bushings instead of being mounted on a pinion pin. This means that they have 'half-bushings' that are only about 2mm wide; not wide enough. [FWIW the (W) series of 5s hubs have a similar issue and the pinion stub bushings are a little wider, ~2.5 or 3mm. Cynically, I could say it doesn't seem to matter in this hub, because it usually breaks in some other way before these wear so badly it is a problem. I don't think I've seen one go past 10k yet, mainly because the shifters cause the hub to break.] In any case improved lubrication would certainly help but not cure the problem.

There are many potential design weaknesses in the 8s hub; I looked into repairing a faulty one only to find that individual spare parts were not available and in addition the hub in question had about five separate damaged areas, so it wouldn't have been economic anyway. I think that there have been several revisions to the design. It is very clever, just flawed in conception (two stages in use in 'cruising gears' is arguably never going to be super-efficient) and flawed in execution. For example each of the three planetary gear stages is locked solid when it isn't 'gearing up' and the method used is to have pawls that are overrun when 'gearing up' (much as low gear pawls are overrun in gear 2 and gear 3 of a three speed hub) and are locked in the 'solid' mode. Only the pawls don't engage with a separate dog ring, they engage with the teeth of the mating ring gear if the neighbouring stage. This is a really elegant solution in some respects but

a) the parts have to be exactly concentric, slop free, in order for all three pawls to engage reliably (echoes of SW...?) and they are not. The ring gears have about 80 teeth and it doesn't take much slop before 2/3 pawl drive or 1/3 pawl drive results.

b) any slippage results in shock loads that can break the teeth off both the pawls themselves and the mating ring gear. The pawls (whether it is the early design or the later one which is different) can't be changed (they are riveted in place.... : :roll: ) and the net result is often that a small fault of this type causes two out of three gear stages to need replacement.

There are other issues with gear selection too.

Regarding the brake; SA drum brakes are easily set to be drag-free. SA drum brakes have probably held more HPV records and race wins than any other single type of brake. No fear or problems there.

If I had an 8s RF (rim brake) hub knocking about I'd probably build it into a 349 (Brompton size) wheel and use it (in a Brompton or an F series Moulton). The hub builds down to a relatively slim OLN and this makes for an easy fit and a nice ride in a Brompton; it is unlikely to suffer damage (small wheels = less torque) and folk don't tend to do intergalactic mileages on those bikes, or would overly begrudge a new hub internal once every five or ten years. You even need a smaller chainring than normal on a Brompton to get the gearing right. It is not quite a match made in heaven (the hub is not super- lightweight) but that is arguably still the best place for one.

Unfortunately the RD hub version is a bit wider and a bit heavier yet than the RF version, so isn't so well suited to a Brompton. However it shouldn't be difficult to get a RF shell (used) and convert if you wanted to. The RD hub would go well in a 20" wheeled folder perhaps?

hth

cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
jimlews
Posts: 1483
Joined: 11 Jun 2015, 8:36pm
Location: Not the end of the world.

Re: IGH Drop bar commuting bike

Post by jimlews »

Thanks Brucey.

Comprehensive and concise reply, as ever.

Think I'll persist with venerable FW+" de-dangler".
andrew549
Posts: 71
Joined: 26 Jul 2014, 6:26pm

Re: IGH Drop bar commuting bike

Post by andrew549 »

When building up a wheel for an IGH is there anything in particular that needs to be considered with the larger flange sizes or is it ok to build them up as you would a normal rear hub.
Brucey
Posts: 44667
Joined: 4 Jan 2012, 6:25pm

Re: IGH Drop bar commuting bike

Post by Brucey »

the spoke entry angles at the rim may not be favourable when the flanges are large diameter. Quite a lot of IGH wheels are better built x2 or x1 as a consequence. Not every rim builds well into an IGH wheel because of the spoke entry angles.

IGHs with steel hub flanges can be built into durable wheels but only (IME) if you use spoke washers; one or two on each spoke is normal, some folk have even used three. If you have a choice to have an aluminium flanged hub, it is almost invariably a better choice. Just to keep you guessing some IGHs have had one steel flange and one aluminium flange (eg Sachs/SRAM 3s drum brake hub). Often aluminium flanges have heavy counterbores in the spoke holes and they build better with spoke washers even if the flange is quite thick; it all depends how long the J bend is.

If the hub has an oil port it is good form to arrange this in line with the valve hole in the rim.

IGH hub flanges are often drilled big enough for heavy gauge spokes, but in most cases it is neither necessary or desirable to actually use such spokes; very few rims are strong enough to take a fully tensioned 13G spoke, and at lower tensions there isn't enough stretch in the spoke to keep the nipples from unscrewing unless you use threadlock.

If you are building (say) an old SA hub, it is something of a leap of faith if you can't inspect the internal in the loose hub. It is certainly a lot easier to remove the ball ring if the hub is in a built wheel, and sometimes it is only possible this way. There is always a chance that an old hub will need a repair and that you will only find this out after having built the wheel.

When dishing an IGH wheel, be sure that you have any locking washers correctly positioned on the axle, and that the chainline is correct. Most IGHs use the standard three-lug sprocket and these are available with different dishes on them, which allows different chainlines.

In general IGH wheels have hardly any dish and the hubs have widely spaced flanges. The result is usually a much stronger wheel than if the same rim is built into a derailleur wheel.

cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
andrew549
Posts: 71
Joined: 26 Jul 2014, 6:26pm

Re: IGH Drop bar commuting bike

Post by andrew549 »

Picked up the bike on Friday a Genesis day one with an alfine 11 which doesn't seem to have done many miles and looking forward to getting out on it and putting the miles on, although the disc brakes hardly seem to work currently a set of promax render r so trying to have a fiddle with them to get them working better or look for a better option so any recommendations on cable disc calipers would be appreciated.
ElCani
Posts: 540
Joined: 5 Mar 2015, 11:24am

Re: IGH Drop bar commuting bike

Post by ElCani »

andrew549 wrote:Picked up the bike on Friday a Genesis day one with an alfine 11 which doesn't seem to have done many miles and looking forward to getting out on it and putting the miles on, although the disc brakes hardly seem to work currently a set of promax render r so trying to have a fiddle with them to get them working better or look for a better option so any recommendations on cable disc calipers would be appreciated.


Congrats, I have the Di2 version of that. Equipped with a generator front hub, mudguards, rack, and Hebie Chainglider chaincase, it makes a great all-weather commuter.

Cable discs benefit from careful set-up with good-quality (lubricated) cables, so hopefully you can get them working well. Obviously also check for wear and contamination of the discs and pads.
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simonineaston
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Joined: 9 May 2007, 1:06pm
Location: ...at a cricket ground

Re: IGH Drop bar commuting bike

Post by simonineaston »

a IGH bike for my fairly flat commute, with disc brake and ideally a dynamo hub.
No specific advice other than to comment that you so won't regret doing that, 'specially after the third or fourth (say) year of using it, when you'll probably still be on your first chain, have enjoyed totally reliable gears and fit-and-forget lighting (between Nov and Feb, that is...) and a brake with a good bite on the rare occasion you need it. Go for it, say I !! :D
S
(on the look out for Armageddon, on board a Brompton nano & ever-changing Moultons)
Freddie
Posts: 2519
Joined: 12 Jan 2008, 12:01pm

Re: IGH Drop bar commuting bike

Post by Freddie »

Just here to second Brucey's suggestion of drum brakes. It seems a bit topsy turvy to get an IGH for the sake of low maintenance and then shod it with, relatively speaking, temperamental brakes like discs. If anything, because of feel at the pedals, efficiency and selection of gear ratios, I'd prefer to have a freewheel/cassette on the back (more fussy gearing) and drum brakes (less fussy braking).

To each his own, but to my mind if you need discs, then you might as well have a cassette hub to go with it.
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