Cycling UK Forum

from my attic, to be dusted off and built up







The 'Module <E>' rim appeared in 1975 and was the first modern HP rim, with a double-wall. Soon it was joined by a double eyelet version 'Module <E2>' , and (because a set lingered on my training/hack bike long after their sell-by date) I have probably done more miles on this rim model than any other.

Not usually fussed about stickers on things, but these (in stark contrast to later Mavic decals) I like.

cheers

Nice find. (I suppose it feels like a find, coming across them again.)

All 32-hole except one at 36?

I knew they were there, but it struck me I'd probably never see that many sat together in the same place at the same time again, hence pictures. One rim is 40h. Another was a bit pranged from hitting a badger, another got a dink in a hole in the road. I kept the damaged ones because I always imagined I'd eventually get better at straightening them and you know what, I have. I have several other examples of these rims still built into wheels that are (or are about to be) retired, and to my surprise despite telephone-number sized mileages they are still in serviceable condition.

Building with these rims is a real trip down memory lane; unlike modern rims every spoke that is the wrong tension can result in a noticeable change in the rim shape, even if the tension is only a little bit different. It would be a complete waste of time trying to use a tension meter with these rims.

IME the listed ERD value for these rims (normally 614mm for both models) is not quite accurate; 614mm for Module <E> and between 615 and 616mm for Module <E2> is more like it. The difference arises because of the double eyelet in the <E2> rim. Add 8mm for 27" versions.

cheers

Brucey wrote:Building with these rims is a real trip down memory lane; unlike modern rims every spoke that is the wrong tension can result in a noticeable change in the rim shape, even if the tension is only a little bit different. It would be a complete waste of time trying to use a tension meter with these rims.
cheers

Indeed a trip down memory lane , and I totally concur with your comments re spoke tension.

Hi,

'Argent' is the anodised version.

cheers

I am surprised what good condition the finish and eyelets are in. Rims that I have from the eighties are nowhere near this condition, I looked at an unused 40 hole MA40 recently and noted corroded eyelets and lots of pitting through the anodised layer, some of these pits are quite deep.
Wish I had rubbed them with oil for some protection. I also wonder if the silver finish is better long term than the dark versions, once the anodising is breached the latter seem to pit deeply, even though very localised.

Hi,

Brucey wrote:'Argent' is the anodised version.

cheers

I never knew that difficult to find information on the Internet.
MA2 which had the same red label It looks like it has the same finish?

MA2 rims were not consistently labelled. MA2 rims (some or all I am not sure) with non 'argent' labels were also anodised rather than polished, presumably just not as anodised. They also did a version called 'MA2 SBP' which had a (presumably different in some way I don't understand) anodising treatment, also silver.

Pitting through an anodised layer usually requires some corrosive substance to be present.

FWIW I have seen MA40 rims that have somehow survived years of commuting without great damage to the anodised layer, but not without corrosion to the double-eyelets; in extremis the double eyelets have corroded right through, meaning that the rim is suddenly as weak as an MA single-eyelet rim.

cheers

do tyres tend to be a tight fit on these rims?

mig wrote:do tyres tend to be a tight fit on these rims?

Not especially, provided you don't use a thick rim tape. <E2> rims tend to be fractionally tighter because the second eyelet stands up above the inner wall of the rim slightly, effectively making the rim well a bit shallower.

BTW these rims (if not the anodised sort) usually polish up very well. The inner (second) eyelets (<E2> rims only) are plated steel and can rust badly. The outer (visible) eyelets can visibly corrode, but it is rare that this corrosion becomes serious. It is quite normal for simple cleaning of a loose rim (eg with fine grade scotchbrite) to remove most of the corrosion from the visible eyelets, and it doesn't usually return at any great speed. I have wondered if the steel in the visible eyelets might be a Chromium-bearing steel which is not immune to corrosion but does resist it to some extent. My tip is that it is well worth polishing the rims, if they need it, before building the wheel; it is so much easier without the spokes in the way.

Later Mavic rims such as the MA40 used stainless steel visible eyelets. The eyelets themselves obviously resist corrosion quite well but the combination of the stainless visible eyelets and the anodising treatment tends to accelerate corrosion wherever there is exposed aluminium, and that means the rim itself behind the eyelet where you can't see it. It is the old 'small anode, large cathode' story which so often ends badly. Running waxoyl or similar under the eyelets is a very good idea.

A Module <E> rim typically weighs about 430g. Not very heavy! Module <E2> is slightly heavier.

One build underway is a set of 36h rims <E> front, <E2> rear, onto Normandy large flange hubs, 120mm OLN rear, using DB SS spokes all round. Both hubs will receive improved cones and the rear axle will be revised to include an axle-saving outrigger bearing. Unfortunately this means making my mind up about which freewheel I want to use early on, since the outrigger bearing will end up being specific to the freewheel and maybe the spacers too. With the revised cones the bearings will be quite a lot smoother than is usual with these hubs. Will they ever be as smooth as Campag or the best shimano? Probably not, but it won't be far off.

cheers

Brucey wrote:...the rear axle will be revised to include an axle-saving outrigger bearing....

I would be really grateful if can you post details about what the outrigger arrangement will entail when you get to that stage. I have a couple of projects that will use Campag Corsa Record and Chorus freewheel hubs, from previous experience these axles can break and even make the dropout crack, so am keen on reinforcing things with the outrigger bearing. Thanks!

The good old days, when Mavic made rims worth buying!

The latest I've had have had paper-thin sidewalls (1.0 - 1.1mm when new!) so I think no more Mavics for me.

The Module 3s were great rims by comparison, 2mm thick braking surfaces and not too heavy but wide enough for 28-32mm tyres. Long gone now though!

Des49 wrote:

Brucey wrote:...the rear axle will be revised to include an axle-saving outrigger bearing....

I would be really grateful if can you post details about what the outrigger arrangement will entail when you get to that stage. I have a couple of projects that will use Campag Corsa Record and Chorus freewheel hubs, from previous experience these axles can break and even make the dropout crack, so am keen on reinforcing things with the outrigger bearing. Thanks!

will do, probably in another thread. Have made some progress today.

cheers