Head Set sizing/buying

[Brucey]

there may well be an obscure theoretical point about odd vs even in bearings (much as there might be in chain drives with tooth counts perhaps). But in reality there seem to be more pressing considerations. For example in the most common (Hoffmann type, deep groove) cartridge bearings there seem to be as many designs with even numbers of balls



as odd;



in a bicycle headset with loose balls, more is always better, provided there is still a small gap

cheers

[mikeymo]

there may well be an obscure theoretical point about odd vs even in bearings (much as there might be in chain drives with tooth counts perhaps). But in reality there seem to be more pressing considerations. For example in the most common (Hoffmann type, deep groove) cartridge bearings there seem to be as many designs with even numbers of balls

Thanks. Forget that idea then.

[Pebble]

your headset uses 5/32" balls. It is badly worn but if you fit loose balls and align the races so that the indents in the crown race and lower set race don't line up when the steering is straight, the headset will work OK for a while, possibly longer than that.

cheers

Theory is one thing but reality is quite another. In practice I have put headsets back together using the method I have described (fully intending it to be only a temporary measure) and then ridden the bike quite happily for tens of thousands of miles; all whilst the new headset sits gathering dust in a box, forgotten even.

In the meantime other folk have destroyed multiple 'vital new headsets' on similar machines, or even wrecked the frame/fork trying to fit them. They have certainly wasted an awful lot of time and effort on it for no gain whatsoever.

There are a couple of bearings on bikes that don't need to be 'perfect' but they always benefit from being 'perfectly adjusted'. If you have bad hubs, BB, pedals etc then it is never good (although it might be tolerable under certain circumstances I suppose). But if you have a slightly imperfect freewheel bearing or headset bearing, but it is perfectly adjusted, it is actually better to ride on than a notionally smoother/better bearing that isn't (or doesn't stay) adjusted so well. In an ideal world you would have both of course but it is very easy to get completely fixated on entirely the wrong thing.

cheers

Thought I would just revisit this thread, not particularly to praise Brucey's wise words (that goes without saying) but just thought I should do an update on what happened.

Anyway, it is this time of year I make my way round the bike re greasing and rebuilding stuff after its long hard winter on the road, and this morning I serviced the headset. Whilst doing so I remembered this thread.

I did at the time of the original post order a complete new headset, but as a temporary measure I followed Brucey's advise and went cage-less. The steering immediately became entirely normal and 8,000 mile later it remains entirely normal. he new headset that I bought is still boxed in the garage gathering dust, I wonder if it will ever see service.

I must say considering the image in the OP I am quite surprised it has worked so well, but it has

[gregoryoftours]

A very good result!