Left shifter of triple STI set up fails less?

[mikeymo]

I've got a 9 x 3 setup, mainly Sora (the latest one R3000/R3030). I'm preparing for the end of times, AKA Shimano not doing 9 x 3 any more, so am always on the lookout for cheap/NOS/lightly used stuff.

Given that I spend the majority of my time on the middle ring of my triple, is it safe to assume that the left hand brifter is less likely to go kaput, than the right hand one? That's also assuming that failure is more likely to be gear changing failure than braking failure.

I might not bother getting a spare left hand shifter, or maybe just one, you see.

Cheers.

[Brucey]

IME STIs fail through accident damage, neglect and occasionally inherent weakness. The action of a front shift is less often used but it is more violent also; it is not at all unknown for some STI models to break more often in the left shifter than the right as a consequence.

It seems a bit crazy to me to invest hundreds of pounds in spare shifters of this type, but then I'm not wedded exclusively to these expensive and relatively vulnerable shifters; it is just not a high priority on a touring machine and there are far more important things to worry about. In terms of spare parts I think there will always be workable shifters available (either new or used) of one kind or another.

Nor is the bike specification that best suits me now pickled in aspic; I might well want to change it in the future. In fact I'd go as far as to say that I'd rather bang nails into soft parts of my anatomy than permanently lock myself into the madness that is indexed front shifting....but what do I know...?

cheers

[thelawnet]

Fwiw there is not too much difference between Shimano STIs between 105 and Claris. I believe the Sora & Claris models are identical apart from the extra gear stop, at least they use all the same parts so it's likely that they are the same quality

In fact there isn't too much difference between Claris and Sora apart from Claris using cheaper, heavy chainrings and having one less speed at the back

So I imagine that:

Shimano will push out 12 speed Dura Ace, Ultegra, 105, 11 speed Tiagra, 10 speed Sora and 9 speed Claris on the not so distant future


This should make your replacement STIs slightly cheaper if anything.

[roubaixtuesday]

Seems like massive over kill to me. Unless crash damaged, STIs are pretty resilient and if crash damaged they may well be the least of your problems.

If it were me (and I have the identical set up on a bike) my fall back would be first to 2nd hand market, then bar end shifters if the STIs ever failed and spares apocalypse somehow arrived.

[rogerzilla]

Judging from the availability and price of LH STI units, it is in fact that one which fails first. Could be because that's the side you generally crash on, gets leant against walls, falls over onto...

[Valbrona]

Always make sure a front derailleur is 'resting' on the limit screw rather than the internals of the STI lever. And don't crash.

[mikeymo]

Always make sure a front derailleur is 'resting' on the limit screw rather than the internals of the STI lever. And don't crash.

Thanks for that. I think I know what you mean, sort of. Bear in mind this is the first derailleur bike I've ever owned, and although I built it up myself starting with the frame, my knowledge of the workings is that of a beginner.

How would I tell if the derailleur is resting on the limit screw? Do I slacken it off until there's a gap under it, which means the lever is taking the strain, something like that? And would that be upper or lower limit screw?

I'll try not to crash.

[Valbrona]

If you adjust the inner limit screw on a FD you then have the possibility of a) the gear cable being a little too slack when the FD is 'resting', or b) the FD not 'resting' on the limit screw but on the STI mechanism instead.

So, if you find yourself making adjustments to the inner limit screw, like when you are out riding your bike, it is good practice afterwards to unship the cable, re-tension it, and anchor it again. At least I have always thought so.

[mikeymo]

If you adjust the inner limit screw on a FD you then have the possibility of a) the gear cable being a little too slack when the FD is 'resting', or b) the FD not 'resting' on the limit screw but on the STI mechanism instead.

So, if you find yourself making adjustments to the inner limit screw, like when you are out riding your bike, it is good practice afterwards to unship the cable, re-tension it, and anchor it again. At least I have always thought so.

Thanks.

Please assume that I am complete mechanical moron, whose crowning achievement in regards to bicycles is managing to sit on one the right way round.*

1. We're talking about the inner limit screw, yes?

2. I never ever ever make adjustments to the limit screws when I'm out on a ride. Or anytime, really.

3. How would I be able to tell if the the FD is "resting" on the limit screw?

As I understand it (I think), you're saying the FD should be "resting" on the inner limit screw just enough to take any strain off the STI, so presumably that means that there will barely any tension in the cable. Something like that?

*Not strictly true, I did build this bike up myself, and as it happens the gears worked perfectly for about two years, until I thought I should "check" them - working on the age old principle - "if it ain't broke, keep fixing it till it is".

[Cyclewala]

I don't think one has to worry about parts availability.

I"m running Shimano STX-RC from the mid 90s on one bike and the front shifter periodically gets sticky and non responsive. Taking it apart and applying fresh grease gets it going again for 2-3 years.

One time, I thought it was terminal and when I looked online, there were plenty of spares even though that groupset hasn't been produced for 20 odd years.

Something else I noticed was the amount of Chinese copies of old 7 / 8 speed stuff.

So, 1) Shimano stuff is pretty tough, 2) there will be plenty spares online and 3) there will be plenty aftermarket copies.

[mikeymo]

I don't think one has to worry about parts availability.

I"m running Shimano STX-RC from the mid 90s on one bike and the front shifter periodically gets sticky and non responsive. Taking it apart and applying fresh grease gets it going again for 2-3 years.

One time, I thought it was terminal and when I looked online, there were plenty of spares even though that groupset hasn't been produced for 20 odd years.

Something else I noticed was the amount of Chinese copies of old 7 / 8 speed stuff.

So, 1) Shimano stuff is pretty tough, 2) there will be plenty spares online and 3) there will be plenty aftermarket copies.

Thanks.

Do you think the left of shifter of triple STI set ups fail less often than the right hand one?

[Cyclewala]

I've got STI on two bikes: 1) 11 years old and 9 sp Tiagra and 2) 5 years and 9 sp Sora. Both triple.

I've not noticed a reduction in the performance of the left shifters. But as said upthread, I find the front derailleurs travel more on the upshift and have a bigger thud on the downshift.

It's not occurred to me this may lead to a premature demise of the shifters.

It must be said that these are two of four bikes and so, someone riding only one bike, might experience greater wear.

One thing I do when not riding is put the derailleurs into gears that reduce cable tension. So, the front is placed into 1st gear and the rear into 4th or 5th. The thinking being that taking tension out of the cable reduces cable wear and possibly, takes the strain off the tiny cogs in the shifters.

I've got no evidence if this makes a difference in reality.

[David9694]

I wonder if brifters, where spares are even available, are in fact (i) reparable hardly at all (ii) economically repairable? I guess if the rest of the drive train is good, it might be worth trying. Same with replacing Shimano chainrings - has anyone successfully done either of these? Was it worth it?

You only have to see the state of a gear cable after a few months’ brifter service once to know you’ve got to replace these regularly.

I’ve just mackled a shift cable with epoxy into the winder where a tiny bit of metal had come away and it was coming out.

On the “resting” bit, what it means is that with cable tension removed, the derailleur is where you want it to be. You want the limit screws to do this, not the cable. Same at the back with the biggest cog, the limit screw must ensure the chain can’t be pulled beyond the biggest cog by extra cable pull.

To Brucey’s point about indexed front shifting - I guess if you want the convenience of the “brift”, you have to index, whether it’s double or triple?

I’ve long since gone back to downtube friction levers on my recent 10s builds - simple, durable, reliable, compatible, cheap (have to add in separate levers), effective.

[Brucey]

On the “resting” bit, what it means is that with cable tension removed, the derailleur is where you want it to be. You want the limit screws to do this, not the cable. Same at the back with the biggest cog, the limit screw must ensure the chain can’t be pulled beyond the biggest cog by extra cable pull.

on a triple the downshift into the middle ring is very hard on an STI because the mechanism in the shifter has to stop the FD dead in its tracks. When triple left STIs stop working, there is usually something broken inside the mechanism. The 'something' is usually very small, can't be accessed easily, and can't be obtained as a spare part either.

To Brucey’s point about indexed front shifting - I guess if you want the convenience of the “brift”, you have to index, whether it’s double or triple? .

many campag ergos don't use indexed front shifting and will work with almost any FD. It is much, much simpler this way.

As to whether such shifters are 'convenient' in the first place, it rather depends whether you are happy to ride on the hoods most of the time or not; I myself like a bit more variety than that, and any one shifter position is only 'convenient' for some of the time.

cheers

[mikeymo]

on a triple the downshift into the middle ring is very hard on an STI because the mechanism in the shifter has to stop the FD dead in its tracks. When triple left STIs stop working, there is usually something broken inside the mechanism. The 'something' is usually very small, can't be accessed easily, and can't be obtained as a spare part either.cheers

Thanks. This might well work for me then.

With my current triple (48-38-26) I spend most of my time in the middle ring. Sometimes onto the granny ring, and usually only onto the big ring "because it's there". So in fact am hardly ever subjecting the STI to the shock you're referring to. Somebody here has suggested I'm geared too high. And they may well be right, but that's a different issue.

I've got a pair of Dura Ace downtube shifters on a shelf. I'll fit them sometime and see how I get on. If I still prefer STIs, then I can put those back on, safe in the knowledge that if the left one ever fails, I can fit the left DT shifter and keep the STI for the RD, in the case of no LH shifter being available. And as I don't often use the FD, any awkwardness won't really matter too much.