Cycling UK Forum

Brucey wrote:

fatboy wrote:

Bmblbzzz wrote:What bad experiences have you had with tubeless?

People boring on about how wonderful it is

I had a puncture the other week (a rare experience) and I was trying to listen for where the hole was and along came two mountain bikers who spent 5 minutes telling me why I should be using tubeless. What I really needed was some peace to fix my problem not why I needed to change my good wheels and tyres!

I'm not sure that even qualifies as moral support; maybe you can shut them up by reminding them of the messy business installing the things and the constant 'topping up' required.

You forget the sealant sticking itself like glue (because that's what it is) to frame, wheels, and so on, when you puncture.

So you save time (?) fixing the puncture, but then you have muck all over everything which is extremely time-consuming to remove.



So then there's another product to get that off

[youtube]OOSefLjMpwQ[/youtube]

NATURAL ANKLING wrote:Hi,

Brucey wrote:

NATURAL ANKLING wrote:….I keep meaning to buy one of those 6 to 8 mm thigumyjibs that go on the end of the six mil Allen key?
I don't need a whole set of got plenty of those, just a bit.

If you have any kind of 8mm spanner, a short length of 8mm allen key is all you need.

cheers

Ha I never thought of that

At a pinch a nut and bolt with a suitable size head can get you out of trouble if you have a spanner to fit.

Hi,
8MM af is M5.
At a pinch a midget combination spanner plus a section of key will fix a crank to get you home.
Its just mostly for other cyclist broken down, rarely I need to fix my own but that means carrying a versatile kit.
I think I got some insert bits 8mm amongst my vast tool kit
Plenty 8mm keys to cut up too.
I am just sorting through my tool kit, to buy the odd spanner or two plus any other tool where I just have one off.
45 years of collecting hand tools and buying some as part of my job, I used to buy and maintain 100 operators for a Military project, plenty samples to try out
But someone can always show you a way to do something.........

thelawnet wrote:

Brucey wrote:

fatboy wrote:
People boring on about how wonderful it is

I had a puncture the other week (a rare experience) and I was trying to listen for where the hole was and along came two mountain bikers who spent 5 minutes telling me why I should be using tubeless. What I really needed was some peace to fix my problem not why I needed to change my good wheels and tyres!

I'm not sure that even qualifies as moral support; maybe you can shut them up by reminding them of the messy business installing the things and the constant 'topping up' required.

You forget the sealant sticking itself like glue (because that's what it is) to frame, wheels, and so on, when you puncture.

So you save time (?) fixing the puncture, but then you have muck all over everything which is extremely time-consuming to remove.



So then there's another product to get that off

[youtube]OOSefLjMpwQ[/youtube]

Is there a product to remove the glue remover, or is that yet to come?

irc wrote:Obviously for some uses like touring 1x is not up to the job...

Hmph. My 1x12, 40x10-50T seems at least adequate.

Jdsk wrote:Didn't gears that you can change without dismounting come after those?

While the Crypto-Dynamic (and other) two-speeds date to the early 1880s, the pneumatic tyre was patented in 1845.

iandusud wrote:

NATURAL ANKLING wrote:Hi,

Brucey wrote:If you have any kind of 8mm spanner, a short length of 8mm allen key is all you need.

Ha I never thought of that

At a pinch a nut and bolt with a suitable size head can get you out of trouble if you have a spanner to fit.

a good option here is a single M5 connector nut;



'hollowed for lightness' too...

cheers

Sid Aluminium wrote:

Jdsk wrote:Didn't gears that you can change without dismounting come after those?

While the Crypto-Dynamic (and other) two-speeds date to the early 1880s, the pneumatic tyre was patented in 1845.

well, yes, except that the pneumatic tyre wasn't actually used then. Possibly this was because the technology just wasn't there (vulcanised rubber for example) to make it work, possibly it was because there wasn't a market for it (the safety bicycle design later spurred sales enormously, and made a market for pneumatic tyres).

Anyway when Dunlop invented pneumatic tyres (again) decades later, he thought it was a new idea, and obtained a patent on it (which wouldn't have stood up, not that they knew this at the time). Interestingly the Dunlop Tyre Co. arguably gained/retained their market position by buying another inventor's patent for wire edged tyres, which then became known as 'the Dunlop system'.

cheers

Sid Aluminium wrote:

irc wrote:Obviously for some uses like touring 1x is not up to the job...

Hmph. My 1x12, 40x10-50T seems at least adequate.

I wouldn't want to tour very far with a £170 cassette held together by 100+ pins to stop you replacing worn cogs
I'd be a bit concerned about the availability of spare parts for some exotic freehub as well.

Three lightweight removable chainrings of standard pattern and a bog standard £20 cassette seems very much more desirable to me .

Shimano haven't yet dared try to fob people off with this stuff - their touring kit is a 48/36/26 chainset and a 11-36 HG cassette , for the equivalent of a 40 X 9-55 chainset.

I imagine the next step will be a 9t cassette for 1x (Campagnalo are already there)

Brucey wrote:

iandusud wrote:

NATURAL ANKLING wrote:Hi,

Ha I never thought of that

At a pinch a nut and bolt with a suitable size head can get you out of trouble if you have a spanner to fit.

a good option here is a single M5 connector nut;



'hollowed for lightness' too...

cheers

This is some genius pro tip! Can you get one of these that is 8mm on one half and 15mm on the other? ATM I carry a long 8mm allen key for the Moulton's rear pivot bolt (which will inevitably go loose and creaky over a week if I don't) and a cut-down 15mm ring spanner for the rear hub nuts. The spanner has good leverage and could easily replace the 8mm allen key if a suitable 'converter' were available...

Hi,

Sid Aluminium wrote:

irc wrote:Obviously for some uses like touring 1x is not up to the job...

Hmph. My 1x12, 40x10-50T seems at least adequate.

Reminds me of my first and last sportive.
Trains of chain gangs with compact gears with two clangers, and I don't know how many rear gears-they have
But I can hear the gnashing of the chain when they're in first gear and that horrible chain line going up hill.
They passed me slowly as I am loaded down on my touring bike with 4 L of fluid (unofficial entry) then I pass them on the flat easily

Hi,
I normally carry an extension tube for my shortish Allen keys.
So only really need a shortish eight mill key.
Not too short so it will rip the tube out if you have to yank on it.
Keep on coming.
Errrrr What was the title of the post again

speedsixdave wrote: ... Can you get one of these that is 8mm on one half and 15mm on the other? ATM I carry a long 8mm allen key for the Moulton's rear pivot bolt....

with a welding set anything is possible....?

Not sure what torque you use on your Moulton's pivot bolt but it might be more than is required to keep a ST crank on, in which case you might be back to short lengths of allen key; a connector nut might not be strong enough for every purpose. Easy enough to try of course.

cheers

freeflow wrote:This is why I think tubeless tyres are pointless on road bikes. Last night at around 7:30pm. The tyre was a 35c Vittoria Hyper Voyager (my last pair <sob>). I've yet to check the tyre for equivalent damage.

Puncture2.jpg

You're going to have to explain this one. You had a punctured tube, a tear or rip that looks at best borderline irreparable. You don't mention similar damage in the tyre itself. So how does this reflect on a system without tubes?

I think that tube could be patched, and the cover booted, but that a corresponding hole in a tubeless tyre wouldn't necessarily seal.

Apologies if this is not what freeflow meant.

cheers