Chris King is good (it should be at the money) so is Hope (but I've not used them much myself) and at more reasonable cost I have had good results with the (now uncommon but briefly popular) 'semi-cartridge' designs, in which the bearings look and fit like cartridge bearings, but you can strip them down to overhaul them and they are filled with much larger ball bearings than you might otherwise find. For example Cane Creek C2 in 1-1/8"; IIRC these have 3/16" balls, full complement. These headsets will clap out quickly if used "as is" (out of the box) because the grease is rubbish, but if they are packed with decent grease they last OK. Tange used to make headsets this way too, but I don't know if they currently do or not.
True cartridge and semi-cartridge headsets need
some preload if excessive movement between the bearing units and their angled seatings is to be avoided.
However many 'true cartridge' bearing headsets contain too few balls, too few in number. With these you are hovering on a tightrope, preload wise, between too much and too little. For example many 1-1/8" cartridges contain about 20-odd 1/8" balls; (this sort of size and quantity is considered adequate for kid's bikes normally...
) even though there would be room for many more balls in the raceways if they were designed to be assembled with a full complement instead.
Headsets with a lower roller bearing in theory have a greater tolerance for preload variations. However in practice the angle of the rollers is usually wrong (which means the seals are extremely unlikely to work) and the corrosion which accompanies the slightest ingress of water has to be seen to be believed. So I'm not a fan of those; to cap it all these headsets tend to be slightly draggy even when they are set up correctly.
Right now I struggle to think of a headset I really like
that is currently for sale and is reasonable money. 'Choose your poison' time again.... On bikes with mudguards, there is something to be said for using a really cheap headset and doing what we always used to do, which is to assemble it with loose balls, rather than use the clipped balls which are again usually too few in number. On bikes without mudguards you need decent seals on the bottom of the lower race and that seems to be the province of cartridge bearing headsets. If you do end up with these, you can at least choose one which uses a readily available bearing type. If corrosion is the enemy (and it often is, many designs allow water in at the top eg through the wedge ring...
) then using stainless steel cartridge bearings is often better than not, despite their having a lower static load rating in non-corrosive conditions.