Winterproofing my bike.

ChrisP100 · Post by **ChrisP100** » 4 Oct 2020, 1:06pm

I only have one bike (hybrid) and I'm planning to commute through the winter. Given that the weather is on the turn, I've decided that it's time to winterproof my ride.

I've fitted full mudguards which should help keep me dry, and also cleaned a degreased the drivetrain and applied wet lube to the chain. My tyres are in fairly good condition and should see me through the winter at least. I've recently put new brake pads on the front, but the rears have got some life in them yet. I've also given my may cables a once over to make sure they are in good condition and applied some lube. Last thing I want is an issue at the side of the road in the middle of winter.

Hopefully that should see me through, but if anyone has any other good tips they are more than welcome.

thirdcrank · Post by **thirdcrank** » 4 Oct 2020, 1:17pm

IME, one of the biggest threats to bikes in Winter is road salt. Make sure you clean it all off straight after a ride.

ChrisP100 · Post by **ChrisP100** » 4 Oct 2020, 1:21pm

thirdcrank wrote:IME, one of the biggest threats to bikes in Winter is road salt. Make sure you clean it all off straight after a ride.

Good tip, but often the last thing I want to be doing after a cold wet ride.

thirdcrank · Post by **thirdcrank** » 4 Oct 2020, 1:29pm

Yes. The alternative is a bike you are not bothered about AKA a hack. Fit fixed, or if you feel passed that a sinlgle-speed freewheel will do nearly as well but it won't help with gentle braking. I've used Finnigan's Waxoyl in Winter but not on a nice bike.

My point is that road salt will corrode unprotected metal surfaces almost before your eyes and the muck they mix in with the salt can be very effective grinding paste.

ChrisP100 · Post by **ChrisP100** » 4 Oct 2020, 1:34pm

thirdcrank wrote:Yes. The alternative is a bike you are not bothered about AKA a hack. Fit fixed, or if you feel passed that a sinlgle-speed freewheel will do nearly as well but it won't help with gentle braking. I've used Finnigan's Waxoyl in Winter but not on a nice bike.

My point is that road salt will corrode unprotected metal surfaces almost before your eyes and the muck they mix in with the salt can be very effective grinding paste.

Rinsing my bike off something I will always do when I get home after a wet ride, even in the summer months. Not something I can do a work though, although I could probably use the contents of my water bottle to do a temporary job until I get home.

whoof · Post by **whoof** » 4 Oct 2020, 2:16pm

If you want something that will be as waterproof as you can on a bike you probably need a different bike.
Drum brakes, hub gears and a chain cover or possibly belt drive.

On your current bike you have the main thing, mudguards. Put a long flap on the front one to offer as much protection as you can.

I have a 26 year old steel framed bike the I commute on in all weathers. This week on a couple of occasions it was like riding down a river. In these conditions I give the chain a quick whizz over with WD40 wipe off clean with a rag and then apply new oil when I get in from work Another squirt of WD40 and drop of oil on the front mech, (downtube) gear shifters and brakes. It takes about 2-3 minutes. Other than that it gets a wash and clean about every six weeks. The frame looks a bit shabby but is still structurally sound.

It's got good quality bearing; UN71 bottom bracket and Ultegra cartridge head set that I never touch.

I keep my eye on various online cycle shops and when on offer buy a few cheap 8 speed chains and cassettes.

cycle tramp · Post by **cycle tramp** » 4 Oct 2020, 4:08pm

whoof wrote:If you want something that will be as waterproof as you can on a bike you probably need a different bike.
Drum brakes, hub gears and a chain cover or possibly belt drive.

On your current bike you have the main thing, mudguards. Put a long flap on the front one to offer as much protection as you can.

I have a 26 year old steel framed bike the I commute on in all weathers. This week on a couple of occasions it was like riding down a river. In these conditions I give the chain a quick whizz over with WD40 wipe off clean with a rag and then apply new oil when I get in from work Another squirt of WD40 and drop of oil on the front mech, (downtube) gear shifters and brakes. It takes about 2-3 minutes. Other than that it gets a wash and clean about every six weeks. The frame looks a bit shabby but is still structurally sound.

It's got good quality bearing; UN71 bottom bracket and Ultegra cartridge head set that I never touch.

I keep my eye on various online cycle shops and when on offer buy a few cheap 8 speed chains and cassettes.

+1 for long front mud flap and drum brakes (I still use deraileur gears after several attempts at finding a hub gear I liked)

ChrisP100 · Post by **ChrisP100** » 28 Dec 2020, 11:44pm

Just thought I'd share a quick update:

I got my bike out of the shed yesterday to give it a once over after 2 weeks of not riding. I'd given it a clean before I put it away, but hadn't paid proper attention to the wheel QRF's. When I tried to undo them to take the wheels off they were stiffer than normal, and when I did manage to shift them they were ware covered in the tell tail sign of aluminium corrosion.

They've now had a thorough clean and inspection and they seem to be sound. I've given them a good squirt of protection spray (Muc-off MO94) and I'll be keeping a closer eye on them from now on.

mumbojumbo · Post by **mumbojumbo** » 29 Dec 2020, 4:39pm

Re: Winterproofing my bike.
Unread postby thirdcrank » 4 Oct 2020, 1:17pm

IME, one of the biggest threats to bikes in Winter is road salt. Make sure you clean it all off straight after a ride.

Do you need to do thgis if bike aluminiu.Know steel vulnerable.

ChrisP100 · Post by **ChrisP100** » 29 Dec 2020, 10:16pm

mumbojumbo wrote:
Re: Winterproofing my bike.
Unread postby thirdcrank » 4 Oct 2020, 1:17pm

IME, one of the biggest threats to bikes in Winter is road salt. Make sure you clean it all off straight after a ride.

Do you need to do thgis if bike aluminiu.Know steel vulnerable.

Yes. Just as much, if not more so than steel.

Anywhere you have different alloys with electrolyte in between (in this case salt water) you will have a galvanic reaction. Alloys of aluminium are particularly susceptible to this.

colin54 · Post by **colin54** » 29 Dec 2020, 11:02pm

ChrisP100 wrote:Just thought I'd share a quick update:

I got my bike out of the shed yesterday to give it a once over after 2 weeks of not riding. I'd given it a clean before I put it away, but hadn't paid proper attention to the wheel QRF's. When I tried to undo them to take the wheels off they were stiffer than normal, and when I did manage to shift them they were ware covered in the tell tail sign of aluminium corrosion.

They've now had a thorough clean and inspection and they seem to be sound. I've given them a good squirt of protection spray (Muc-off MO94) and I'll be keeping a closer eye on them from now on.

Are they external cam quick releases ? Internal cam ones seem to give no trouble, I've been surprised how seized the external cam ones can get when I've encountered them on other people's bikes.
Link here explains the differences in case you are unaware of them.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html#choices

mumbojumbo · Post by **mumbojumbo** » 30 Dec 2020, 8:30pm

Re: Winterproofing my bike.
Unread postby ChrisP100 » 29 Dec 2020, 10:16pm

mumbojumbo wrote:
Re: Winterproofing my bike.
Unread postby thirdcrank » 4 Oct 2020, 1:17pm

IME, one of the biggest threats to bikes in Winter is road salt. Make sure you clean it all off straight after a ride.

Do you need to do thgis if bike aluminiu.Know steel vulnerable.

Yes. Just as much, if not more so than steel.

Anywhere you have different alloys with electrolyte in between (in this case salt water) you will have a galvanic reaction. Alloys of aluminium are particularly susceptible to this.

|In my apparent ignorance I rode an aluminium mtb to work for 6 years for 200 days doing 14 mile a day.Seems none the worse apart from cosmetics

simonineaston · Post by **simonineaston** » 30 Dec 2020, 10:45pm

Good tip, but often the last thing I want to be doing after a cold wet ride.

Not 'alf!
But, a bucket of water, prepared before the ride, with a soft nylon handbrush ready waiting in it and you can sluice the bike down in seconds flat. Omit the sluice-down and let the stuff semi-dry on before the next ride and it all starts to accumulate...

: picture of lovely nylon-bristle brush

Debs · Post by **Debs** » 30 Dec 2020, 11:04pm

Purchased one of these Hozelock brushes a year ago, and it's get used to good effect.

However i am lucky to have easy access to a hose on outside tap.

After a good rinse, i quickly dry most the wet off the bike with a microfibre cloth, followed by a few well aimed squirts of Bike Protect:

Although, having said all the about, i do have the added advantage of keeping my bike in an allowed parking space indoors, the effect of room temperature central heating dries the bike quickly and seems to prevent the ill effects that can happen in a cold damp shed or garage

mikeymo · Post by **mikeymo** » 31 Dec 2020, 12:24am

cycle tramp wrote:+1 for long front mud flap and drum brakes (I still use deraileur gears after several attempts at finding a hub gear I liked)

So are you using drum brakes with derailleur gears?

https://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/x-rdc