peetee wrote:Thanks for all the contributions. Plenty to take in. It’s clear that the jury is still out as to whether cable discs would offer any significant overall benefit vs a well set-up calliper when paired with the 4600 levers. I read elsewhere that the Shimano option is the one to get for those levers but, alas, no one here has that combination to be able to comment further. That only adds to the confusion as Avid and TRP brakes have plenty of supporters here. Additional power is not what I am after and I do like a brake that exhibits no wasted lever travel and good feedback so having the right cable pull is everything. I think Brucey’s final statement sums up where I am with this and my best option is to stick with what I know and with the money I save stock up on spare rims and pads.
Just to add some experience. On our tandem I have 4700 levers which I use with a short (90mm arm) v-brake on the front which works very well, so would be more than adequate on a solo. Despite the shorter arms there is plenty of clearance for a 1.6" tyre with mudguards and it could go bigger.
Which is another good reason to consider building a new bike round the Spa Wayfarer. You would have the choice of 3 brake types - disc, canti or V (mini or normal, depending on levers). As far as I know cantilevers and V brakes use the same bosses, though of course I may well be hopelessly misinformed.
Which results in N being about 5. + Frames / wheels
Cheers James
I hope the kids bikes are being used. I have two adult bikes in the mix belonging to my grown up kids who never use them. Of course, if they were to move out and take them too I would have space for N+2 in the outhouse and two spare rooms. Hmmmmmm.
The older I get the more I’m inclined to act my shoe size, not my age.
I have the TRP, had them for 5 years now and not had a problem with seizing but then I don't go out on the salty icy roads these days. Touring bike, they work very well, I don't find adjustment as big a problem as some folk say it is by any means. You get the best performance by following TRP instructions/installation video, keeping the arm at the correct angle for best mechanical advantage (as you do with the cross-cable-thingy on cantis).
Brompton, Condor Heritage, creaky joints and thinning white (formerly grey) hair ""You know you're getting old when it's easier to ride a bike than to get on and off it" - quote from observant jogger !
I became disenchanted with BB7s and now have Tektro Aquilas on two of my bikes. Large pads, caliper alignment but only distance adjustment of the moving pad. They just seem to work and are noticeably lighter than the bb7s.
UpWrong wrote:I became disenchanted with BB7s and now have Tektro Aquilas on two of my bikes. Large pads, caliper alignment but only distance adjustment of the moving pad. They just seem to work and are noticeably lighter than the bb7s.
What was the problem with BB7s?
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"All we are not stares back at what we are"
W H Auden
Which results in N being about 5. + Frames / wheels
Cheers James
I hope the kids bikes are being used. I have two adult bikes in the mix belonging to my grown up kids who never use them. Of course, if they were to move out and take them too I would have space for N+2 in the outhouse and two spare rooms. Hmmmmmm.
UpWrong wrote:I became disenchanted with BB7s and now have Tektro Aquilas on two of my bikes. Large pads, caliper alignment but only distance adjustment of the moving pad. They just seem to work and are noticeably lighter than the bb7s.
These calipers use the same pads as shimano BR-M515 which is one of the most common pad styles. The caliper alignment does not include 'tilt' so the frame does need to be well-prepped to mount these accurately. The fixed pad adjuster (FPA) looks very similar to the one used in the old Tektro "Io" model: if identical, it contains a rather clever swivelling seat for the 'fixed' pad which ensures that the (static) clamping pressure is evenly distributed. However the pistons do not seem to be offset away from the pad centre (as they are in shimano calipers which use this pad style), so it is possible that the pads may routinely wear to a slight taper.
However I have not been able to verify this or indeed measure the caliper MA. Tektro say they are for MTB (V-brake) cable pull.
IIRC the FPA thread pitch is 1mm. This means that if you see how much brake cable pull is required to accommodate one full turn of FPA adjuster movement, you should have an idea of the caliper MA. For reference ~10:1 (cable pull to piston movement) matches the 'old' (~1990-2008) road cable pull and it is almost double that for good compatibility with V-brake levers. So to match shimano's New Super SLR (NSSLR) cable pull it ought to be inbetween.
rmurphy195 wrote:I have the TRP, had them for 5 years now and not had a problem with seizing but then I don't go out on the salty icy roads these days. Touring bike, they work very well, I don't find adjustment as big a problem as some folk say it is by any means. You get the best performance by following TRP instructions/installation video, keeping the arm at the correct angle for best mechanical advantage (as you do with the cross-cable-thingy on cantis).
Interesting, thanks.
It seems to me that setting the actuating arm at the correct angle was not really possible when the bike/brakes were new, because the thickness of the pads meant that the arm needed to be set at too shallow an angle. As the pads wear the arm can be adjusted to improve mechanical efficiency. Unless there is something I am missing, it seems to me that, when it is time to change, thinner new pads would be a better fit. I guess an alternative would be to grind off a few thou from the surface of the new pads. Seems a bit drastic, though!
Ray The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt - Bertrand Russell