Some Common Sewing Issues and Their Fixes

[leticiagrant723]

Some Common Sewing Issues and Their Fixes

Modern sewing machines have reduced the chances of many common sewing issues of the past. However, using these devices has a few complications, especially when choosing a sewing machine for beginners. You can handle these problems with practice and understanding, but it will take time and effort. Therefore, the better option is to know these issues and their solutions in advance. It will save you from later complications. Following are the most common issues and fixes you can face when sewing your clothes.

Thread Breaking



There are several reasons behind this problem. However, it mostly happens if you fail to insert the needle correctly. Another main reason for thread breaking is using the wrong thread. Hand-sewing threads are delicate and might not be compatible with a good basic sewing machine, so avoid using them. Use appropriate fiber according to the type of your tool. Another reason is the difference in the weight of both threads. In this case, you need to adjust them accordingly to solve the issue.

Inconsistent Bobbin Tension

This problem usually happens with plastic bobbins. These bobbins can wear quickly, which causes loosening of bobbin housing. As a result, it becomes difficult to maintain tension in even the top sewing machines for beginners if one fails to follow the appropriate procedure. Remember that there might be several culprits behind this problem. The first solution is to replace your bobbin with a quality metal one.

Strange Noises from Machine

A common reason behind this problem is that your sewing machine requires proper cleaning. The initial step is to stop running the machine immediately as it can prove harmful. Check the manual of the machine to clean the device. Follow these instructions to clean and oil the product. Now test the machine on scrap fiber. If the device is still producing the noise, take it to a professional for a complete checkup and repair.

Decorative Settings Not Working

Many sewing machines have decorative stitch functions with specific settings. On occasions, you may find these settings not working. Many decorative machine settings need precise length and width stitch settings to work accurately. As mentioned in the basic sewing machine reviews, the main reason behind this issue is the stitch setting of length and width. Therefore, check your material and adjust stitches accordingly. You can read instructions in the user manual to know about the compatible fabrics.

Needle Not Moving



A problem that tailors sometimes face is the immobilization of needles while the machine is running. It is problematic, but its solution is simple. An easy to use sewing machine for beginners mostly runs in the bobbin-winding mode. In this situation, you have to check the lever of the bobbin and correct its position. If you fail to resolve the problem, your device might require repair from an expert technician.

Machines Skipping Stitches

There are several reasons and solutions for this issue. It can happen if your needle is not suitable according to your machine. During this, the upper thread in your machine will not reach the bobbin and cause stitch skipping. A bend or damaged needle will also create this problem. You can avoid this problem by re-threading both top and bottom threads.

Conclusion

We have described the most common problems faced by new and experienced seamstresses. Usually, the solution to these issues is simple, and you will not require the services of a professional for this purpose. You can also face other problems even with the top sewing machines for beginners while working. These are related to the thread, fabric, needle, and bobbin. You can overcome these problems by getting the necessary information and practice. It is advisable to read our tips at the CraftsSelection website to take your sewing performance to the next level.

[Jdsk]

How about adding "Bearings" to the Subject?

: - )

Jonathan

[Mick F]

How about adding "Bearings" to the Subject?

Sorted!

Only just approved that post. You were quick off the mark!

[Jdsk]

: - )

Jonathan

[ANTONISH]

I use something like SKF.
I have a feeling that original equipment may be the lowest grade that suits the purpose.

Not directly related but after five years from new the oil pump on my central heating boiler started to leak.
I had to change it. I noticed that the motor bearings were decidedly rough and I changed those as well - from some unknown brand to a known brand.
That was twenty years ago and the pump and motor are still working well.

[Brucey]

IME cheap bearings have seals that are less good, less good grease inside, less accurate tolerances and are made of steels that render the fatigue life of the bearing less than posher ones.

However in bicycle applications there is often little value in specifying a posh bearing. In the same way as experienced gardeners will tell you they would rather have 'a ten bob plant in a five quid hole' than the other way about, you can often do as well or better with a cheap bearing than an expensive one.

Firstly the fatigue life of cheap bearings is somewhat moot; fatigue life is likely to become significant at mileages in excess of 30000 miles; very few cycle bearings make it that far without dying horribly some other way (which is why you need new ones now, I'd expect).

- if the lubrication of the bearings is improved, the seals mainly need to help retain lubricant, rather than keep water out.
- grease fills in most commercial bearings are meant for high speed use. Bicycles are low speed applications and grease fills ought to be much higher. Bearing manufacturers do make specific bearings for low speed use but they tend to be expensive because they are not commoditised. All they are is standard bearings with a bit more grease in, and you can do that if you want.
- bearings are made with different dimensional tolerances and this -in combination with the dimensions of the housing etc- affects both bearing preload and the way service loads are handled. A lot of bicycle equipment is not made accurately enough so bearing preloads are pot luck really. Even posh hubs distort when the wheel is built (typically opening up the bore the bearing sits in) so you can lose the bearing fit that way.
- in industrial applications some preload is important. In bicycle hubs, rather less so. Thus you can (for example) check an installed bearing and if you can rock the inner part of the bearing slightly, this is normally OK in a cycle hub, even if it means 'insufficient preload' and will certainly shorten the life of a bearing which is expected to do 30000 rpm all the time.

In a typical cycle hub with cartridge bearings in it, I usually remove the seals facing inwards and use plenty of grease in the bearings themselves and inside the housing. I usually employ a semi-fluid grease, provided there is little danger from lube bypassing the seals and ending up in the brakes. So in a disc brake hub I'd use a #2 grease throughout, and in SA drum brake hubs likewise, and/or I'll fit a sealed bearing in the brake side of the hub even if I retain a shielded one on the other side (this way any excess lube will burp out on the non-brake side, not the brake side).

So if you don't mind spending a few quid more then by all means use bearings that cost a bit more. But if you begrudge the money and/or expect the bearing life to be limited by other things, you can make cheap bearings work tolerably well (or better than unfettled bearings of other types) eg by improving their lubrication / installation etc

cheers