Slipping chain...
Slipping chain...
I’ve been a bit lazy with the maintenance recently and my chain has started slipping when on the middle chainring and the smallest half of the cassette. It doesn’t slip whilst in any other gears.
I’m considering just starting a fresh by replacing the chain, middle chainring and the cassette......but is it likely I just need to replace one or two of these components? Maybe just the chain or just the chain and cassette? Maybe I’ll just have to experiment but wondered if anyone had any ideas.
Cheers, Dave
I’m considering just starting a fresh by replacing the chain, middle chainring and the cassette......but is it likely I just need to replace one or two of these components? Maybe just the chain or just the chain and cassette? Maybe I’ll just have to experiment but wondered if anyone had any ideas.
Cheers, Dave
Re: Slipping chain...
How experienced are you... would you like links to the relevant advice on adjustment?
When it "slips" is that into another gear or something else?
Can you get it to do this while it's on a stand?
Measure chain wear and inspect the chain and all of the relevant teeth.
Jonathan
When it "slips" is that into another gear or something else?
Can you get it to do this while it's on a stand?
Measure chain wear and inspect the chain and all of the relevant teeth.
Jonathan
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Re: Slipping chain...
Does the slipping occur more under heavy load? I presume that you've checked your chain for wear and it is quite far gone? If not then also check it for stiff links. These can cause the chain to slip on smaller sprockets. Turning the pedals backwards can sometimes show this up. Check that the cable runs unobstructed and that your derailleur hanger hasn't been knocked/bent out of true. If the gears are misbehaving due to wear and your middle ring looks badly worn I'd replace it too. Even if a new chain doesn't slip on it or you don't get chain suck it will likely feel horrible and grindy on a new chain.
Re: Slipping chain...
Thanks both. It wouldn’t slip on a stand or under light load, it’s just when I apply significant pressure. It doesn’t slip out of gear either...
I tried reverse pedalling and the chain does get caught when I do that in the same gears that the chain slips in.
The chain will definitely have significant wear and I should have replaced it some time ago. I’m just unsure whether consistently riding on the lengthened chain will have also damaged the chainrings/cassette meaning they’ll also need replacing
I tried reverse pedalling and the chain does get caught when I do that in the same gears that the chain slips in.
The chain will definitely have significant wear and I should have replaced it some time ago. I’m just unsure whether consistently riding on the lengthened chain will have also damaged the chainrings/cassette meaning they’ll also need replacing
Re: Slipping chain...
Dave855 wrote:The chain will definitely have significant wear and I should have replaced it some time ago. I’m just unsure whether consistently riding on the lengthened chain will have also damaged the chainrings/cassette meaning they’ll also need replacing
AIUI from what you have said the experts now say change the cassette.
Can you add some photos of the teeth on the chainrings?
Jonathan
Re: Slipping chain...
you could try reversing all the cogs that have begun to slip, if you do this quick enough you may get a few thousand more miles out of the cassette. (obviously you can't flip the smallest. but you could just stop using that one (limit it out)
I reversed my 3rd & 4th gears about 7,000 miles ago and amazingly they are still working under load.
I reversed my 3rd & 4th gears about 7,000 miles ago and amazingly they are still working under load.
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Re: Slipping chain...
Check the chain wear ( stretch ) with a standard type chain checker. If you’ve been using the chain ‘stretched’ past the 1% mark for any significant mileage, the cassette will be pretty much knackered. You’d be better off replacing the whole cassette and getting a new chain, as if you put a new chain on the knackered cassette, it will almost certainly slip, which will knacker the new chain. There’s an old saying “you can’t teach an old cog new links” and it’s pretty much true. There is a caveat, that if you change chains before you get to the 1% ‘stretch’ point, you could get away with replacing the chain ( or more than one chain ), without a new cassette. In order to maximise the use you get out of the chain, you need to keep it clean and well lubed, as the ‘stretch’ is being caused by wear of the rollers and bushings, mostly by bits of debris / dirt grinding them down, the side plates ( usually ) aren’t actually stretching very much at all.
Re: Slipping chain...
Chain checkers often over-rate chain wear as they include wear to the bushings and can indicate 0.5% or more wear in brand new chains, as has been discussed on this forum previously.
Check the chain wear with a ruler, with the chain under tension, measuring between the pin centres. A new chain will have two pins exactly 12" apart. Any more than 1/8" extension would suggest the chain is knackered (1% wear) and has probably worn the cassette beyond being able to be used with a new chain. You might get away with just replacing the most-used/most-worn cassette sprockets and the chain but usually it's not possible to buy individual sprockets any more so unless you have spare cassettes just buy a new one.
You might get away with using the old chainrings as they are typically the longest-lasting part of the transmission, worth a try with a new chain anyway.
There is no 'stretch' as in permanent deformation under load of a chain, it's all just wear to the pins and the inner plates where they pivot on the pins.
Check the chain wear with a ruler, with the chain under tension, measuring between the pin centres. A new chain will have two pins exactly 12" apart. Any more than 1/8" extension would suggest the chain is knackered (1% wear) and has probably worn the cassette beyond being able to be used with a new chain. You might get away with just replacing the most-used/most-worn cassette sprockets and the chain but usually it's not possible to buy individual sprockets any more so unless you have spare cassettes just buy a new one.
You might get away with using the old chainrings as they are typically the longest-lasting part of the transmission, worth a try with a new chain anyway.
There is no 'stretch' as in permanent deformation under load of a chain, it's all just wear to the pins and the inner plates where they pivot on the pins.
Re: Slipping chain...
Finally got around to changing the chain and the cassette this morning and I’ve just taken the bike for a spin. The chain is still slipping on the middle chainring so looks like I need to replace that too...
Here’s a pic of my current setup
I’m not sure if there are any compatibility issues with chainrings? Planning to order this one if you guys think it should fit? Or do you think I should really replace all three chainrings?
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-deore- ... lsrc=aw.ds
Here’s a pic of my current setup
I’m not sure if there are any compatibility issues with chainrings? Planning to order this one if you guys think it should fit? Or do you think I should really replace all three chainrings?
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-deore- ... lsrc=aw.ds
Re: Slipping chain...
Update: Having taken the bike out again it seems the chain is now also slipping on the largest chainring.....
So Looks like a new crankset is needed. I’ve counted the teeth on the existing one and it’s 48, 36, 26. Is that a decent setup for fully loaded touring or is now a good opportunity to change it?
If I go down the like for like replacement route I’m looking at this one....seem ok? This will teach me to do more maintenance from now on! Thanks, Dave
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-FC-M37 ... bwEALw_wcB
So Looks like a new crankset is needed. I’ve counted the teeth on the existing one and it’s 48, 36, 26. Is that a decent setup for fully loaded touring or is now a good opportunity to change it?
If I go down the like for like replacement route I’m looking at this one....seem ok? This will teach me to do more maintenance from now on! Thanks, Dave
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-FC-M37 ... bwEALw_wcB
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Re: Slipping chain...
That's a good replacement unless you can source NOS chainrings cheaper (small ring doesn't need replacing). Personally I'd go for the 44,32,22 option for fully loaded touring, especially if you like the hills. It's what most of the bikes I tour on are set up with. By the way if you hang around on the Tredz website for a few minutes before you buy anything a £5 of voucher code will usually pop up.
Last edited by gregoryoftours on 18 Apr 2021, 12:37pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Slipping chain...
I'm almost certain that chainset is square taper but some old hollowtech marked ones are octalink so I'd just remove a crank bolt to check before ordering.
Re: Slipping chain...
Thanks, I’m definitely considering changing to the 44,32,22....anybody else think this is the way to go?
Will I have to consider any compatibility issues if I do this e.g. with the front derailleur? The bottom bracket is square taper.
Thanks
Will I have to consider any compatibility issues if I do this e.g. with the front derailleur? The bottom bracket is square taper.
Thanks
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Re: Slipping chain...
It’s obviously the way to go for loaded touring in hilly terrain - you can never have too low a gear for fully loaded touring.
Raleigh Randonneur 708 (Magura hydraulic brakes); Blue Raleigh Randonneur 708 dynamo; Pearson Compass 631 tourer; Dawes One Down 631 dynamo winter bike;Raleigh Travelogue 708 tourer dynamo; Kona Sutra; Trek 920 disc Sram Force.
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Re: Slipping chain...
Just find the product code on the back of the inner mech plate (occasionally very well hidden up near the pivots) but it's always there and look up the specs to check compatibility. I'm pretty sure it will be ok. The gap between the top 2 rings is the same and that chainset also came with 44/32/22 option and probably used the same front mech for both. I use 53/11 on some of my road bikes but I still don't feel I need higher gears than 44/11 for touring, you can still go at a decent clip in that gear.