SunRace freewheels.

[mikeS]

For a year now I've been using a screw on SunRace freewheel with no problems.
Now, all of a sudden it's started unscrewing itself on the road- that's the LH threaded cone/lockring coming loose, not the sprockets.
I've re tightened it, as much as i can , several times using a Park Tool tool- that's the thing like a big steel hairgrip- but it re loosens on the road everytme.
Has anyone else had this problem with this make?
Mike.

[rjb]

Looks like you are not alone. viewtopic.php?t=144231

[mikeS]

Thanks rjb, but as far as I can gather the complaint voiced previously was regarding the sprockets and lockring detaching from the freewheel body whereas it's my body itself that's coming apart! Fortunately when freewheeling, the cone/lockring ie the bit with 2 shallow holes in it tends to screw back on, otherwise there'd be 71 1/8'' balls in the road-yes I did count them- and an awful noise from my rear end.
My interpretation- a new manufacturer, they don't really know what they are doing, the screw thread they've used is too coarse and eventually works loose.Regina, Maillard and, dare I say it-TDC (look it up) would have known better, but where are they now?
Surprising no previous on this. So looks like I AM alone!! (Violins here!).
MikeS

[peetee]

Would it be possible to apply a locking compound or epoxy resin to the threads? I could see how that would be tricky if the threads are located internally and are partly or wholly within the lubricated bearing cavity but if possible it might be the best option as it still has the potential to be removable for lubrication or bearing replacement - with careful application with healthy, unworn tools.
That or a quick spot weld and treat the whole unit as expendable when the next problem arises.

[rogerzilla]

Freewheels are fairly cheap, so I'd buy something that works, rather than risk being stuck miles from home.

I'm afraid my experience of Sunrace stuff (which includes current Sturmey-Archer products) is that it is badly designed and made, but looks blingy.

[robert17]

I chose to go for an IRD five speed from SJS for a restoration. Interestingly, the first one was faulty but the second sublime and no issues. The extremely cheap price of some put me off. I was a bit worried that where was a choice of v cheap and v expensive as I am generally a mid range type man.

[cycle tramp]

I wonder if the park tool is unable to generate enough force to fully tighten that ring. In the past I have always used a small punch and a hammer to both loosen the bearing cone/ lockring and then screw it back into place. I suspect a couple of hammer blows via the punch to fully tighten it, should keep the bearing cone/lock ring in place. - However given how cheap freewheels are, perhaps it's time for a new one?

[PT1029]

As well as trying to use the Park Tool on the lock ring, did you do a final tighening with a hammer and punch?
In my freewheel days I always did the final tightening with a hammer and punch (not hammer and tongs type hammering), even though my Campag BB pin spanner fitted the lock ring.
I have fitted quite a lot of Sun Race freewhels, and none have come apart. Luck of the draw possibly.
I have seen about 2 come a part in recent years as you describe (I forget the make), one had dsgorged its inners on the road somewhere, the other was a fairly close fit in the frame, so came loose but came up against the dropout, so kept it's innerds enabling me to secure it back together.
If you want a "nice" freewheel, IRD ones (5 - 7 speed) are about £60. They had a few reliability problems originally, but I gather they have sorted these - worth you checking before spending £60!
I'd agree they (like a lot of OKish stuff these days) not the quality of the old European makes. My hunch is this is more due to frewheels belonging to the cheaper end of the marker (having been replaced by cassettes) than being made east of the Ural mountains.
That said I recall settling on Shimano then Maillard then Suntour Ultra 6/7 freewheels back in the day. Before that, I never replaced a freewheel with an identical one as the one being replaced was unsatisfactory for one reason or another, which explains why I have so many freewheel removers!.

[rogerzilla]

In theory, precession should keep the cone screwed down against its shims, provided it wasn't super-loose to start with. Something, probably malformed threads or a non-plane seating surface on the body, cone or shims is stopping this.

[rjb]

I had a similar failure on two 6 speed shimano freewheels fitted to my tandem. This was after fitting an outrigger bearing to support the Suzue hub axle which was prone to snapping. I couldn't figure out why the fitting of the outrigger bearing had an effect on the locking cone of the freewheel.

[cycle tramp]

For a year now I've been using a screw on SunRace freewheel with no problems.
Now, all of a sudden it's started unscrewing itself on the road- that's the LH threaded cone/lockring coming loose, not the sprockets.
Mike.

Before the cone/locking started to unscrew - did anything else happen? Were there strange noises coming from the freewheel or did it start to feel 'odd' at all?

[cycle tramp]

For a year now I've been using a screw on SunRace freewheel with no problems.
Now, all of a sudden it's started unscrewing itself on the road- that's the LH threaded cone/lockring coming loose, not the sprockets.
Has anyone else had this problem with this make?
Mike.

I currently use a IRD freewheel at the moment - I'm on my second as my first IRD freewheel developed some play in the bearings which made the freewheel clonk under load and also made it feel as if one of the paws wasn't engaging.
I do wonder if what's happened to your freewheel is that some play has developed in the bearings, but rather than manifest itself as weird feelings in the hub or noises - there is now enough play to cause the bearings to jam themselves between the freewheel body and the cone/locking and in some situations transmit the rotation of the freewheel body through these jammed bearings to the cone/lock ring, which then causes it to unscrew.

[mikeS]

Ladies and Gentlemen, thank you all for your input here. Rather than spend time with gluing welding or hammering, none of which have been needed on other makes, I've ditched the offending SunRace article and put on a 1 year old Shimano which has cured the problem. I suspect that whatever tightening methods I might come up with would be inferior to the MegaNewton- Metre tightener they used at the factory- and it still came loose even then.
As rogerzilla says: ' Freewheels are fairly cheap, so I'd buy something that works, rather than risk being stuck miles from home.' Absolutely, the question is....what works best?
Cycle tramp- When tightened by me, virtually no play in the bearing and yes clunking sounds from somewhere, only on pedalling, maybe nothing for 15 miles, then with a vengeance, worse on the smaller sprockets, then disappears! I'd replaced virtually all the transmission piece by piece before I sussed it. With hindsight all is clear- the lockring is repeatedly loosening under load (why?) then screwing up on freewheeling.I estimate 5 balls had escaped which would sensibly make 36 originally in the outer race. So, 'A close run thing' (to walking 15 miles home) as the Duke of Wellington nearly said!
I did not mention that the 1 years previous trouble free useage of this freewheel was (with the same wheel) in a different frame, now at the painters. The wheel fitted the stand in frame, the chain alignment is good, it didn't seem relevant. But having read rjb's experience with a Shimano on his tandem, who knows?
I've not heard of IRD but if they cost £60 you'd be annoyed if they have problems.They certainly look pretty and are offered in a huge range incuding 5 speed.
What's the latest on them?
KBO,
Mike.

[cycle tramp]

Cycle tramp
I've not heard of IRD but if they cost £60 you'd be annoyed if they have problems.They certainly look pretty and are offered in a huge range incuding 5 speed.
What's the latest on them?
KBO,
Mike.

Yes - for a freewheel it's expensive. It took 4 years for my first IRD to develop play, which works out to 15 quid a year. However, having taken the freewheel apart there's no signs of any great wear, so I'll reassemble it with fresh grease, re-set the bearings and try and get another 4 years from it.
I've got a older shimano freewheel to use after that and then I'll try a sunrace freewheel.

[esasjl]

This was after fitting an outrigger bearing to support the Suzue hub axle which was prone to snapping.

A question on the outrigger bearing. Are there signs that the outrigger bearing is taking load most of the time or is it acting to prevent the major axle excursions during occasional high loads? If the bearing only comes into play when the axle bends could a bearing bush be used, e.g.,
https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Metric-Pl ... ush-3669-p

Regards