rogerzilla wrote: ↑5 Apr 2021, 4:21pm
Any chance of the last bit in English? It sounds good but something has gone wrong with the formatting, I think!
A suitable impact socket cross drilled cobalt drill bit with M8 12.9 tensile strength bolts and nylock nuts.
The two bolts through socket and tube spread load. The hammers of impact gun more chance of breaking corrosion without tube collapse.
As Roy Walker used to say "it's good but it's not right" - at least I'm not getting it. More verbs required please.
rogerzilla wrote: ↑5 Apr 2021, 4:21pm
Any chance of the last bit in English? It sounds good but something has gone wrong with the formatting, I think!
A suitable impact socket cross drilled cobalt drill bit with M8 12.9 tensile strength bolts and nylock nuts.
The two bolts through socket and tube spread load. The hammers of impact gun more chance of breaking corrosion without tube collapse.
As Roy Walker used to say "it's good but it's not right" - at least I'm not getting it. More verbs required please.
My interpretation is;
Drill two holes (clearance for an m8 bolt) through an impact socket at 90 degrees to it's axis. Drill two corresponding holes through the seat tube. Put the socket over the seat tube so that the holes align. Insert M8 12.9 bolts through the holes and secure with nyloc nuts. Use and impact wrench to try to turn the socket, which will try to turn the seat post, which will free it without causing the tube to collapse.
richardfm wrote: ↑7 Apr 2021, 1:01pm
Drill two holes (clearance for an m8 bolt) through an impact socket at 90 degrees to it's axis. Drill two corresponding holes through the seat tube. Put the socket over the seat tube so that the holes align. Insert M8 12.9 bolts through the holes and secure with nyloc nuts. Use and impact wrench to try to turn the socket, which will try to turn the seat post, which will free it without causing the tube to collapse.
Maybe the last part should read This may free it, but could possibly damage the tube?
gently does it .... until all else fails.
A suitable impact socket cross drilled cobalt drill bit with M8 12.9 tensile strength bolts and nylock nuts.
The two bolts through socket and tube spread load. The hammers of impact gun more chance of breaking corrosion without tube collapse.
As Roy Walker used to say "it's good but it's not right" - at least I'm not getting it. More verbs required please.
My interpretation is;
Drill two holes (clearance for an m8 bolt) through an impact socket at 90 degrees to it's axis. Drill two corresponding holes through the seat tube. Put the socket over the seat tube so that the holes align. Insert M8 12.9 bolts through the holes and secure with nyloc nuts. Use and impact wrench to try to turn the socket, which will try to turn the seat post, which will free it without causing the tube to collapse.
It won't be very effective if you drill through the seat tube and will certainly damage the frame! I think seatpost was meant. Looks very effective in the videos.
fausto99 wrote: ↑7 Apr 2021, 12:56pm
As Roy Walker used to say "it's good but it's not right" - at least I'm not getting it. More verbs required please.
My interpretation is;
Drill two holes (clearance for an m8 bolt) through an impact socket at 90 degrees to it's axis. Drill two corresponding holes through the seat tube. Put the socket over the seat tube so that the holes align. Insert M8 12.9 bolts through the holes and secure with nyloc nuts. Use and impact wrench to try to turn the socket, which will try to turn the seat post, which will free it without causing the tube to collapse.
It won't be very effective if you drill through the seat tube and will certainly damage the frame! I think seatpost was meant. Looks very effective in the videos.
Good point, seat post was what I was picturing in mind as typed, but it came out wrong!
ISTR someone making a device which clamped the seatpost firmly and pushed on the top of the seat tube, using M. Poisson's ratio as well as brute force to pop the post out.
It's the same principle as removing a car radiator hose from its stub: pulling the hose tightens it harder, but pushing the hose with a flat blade relaxes its grip.
rogerzilla wrote: ↑7 Apr 2021, 7:25pm
ISTR someone making a device which clamped the seatpost firmly and pushed on the top of the seat tube, using M. Poisson's ratio as well as brute force to pop the post out.
It's the same principle as removing a car radiator hose from its stub: pulling the hose tightens it harder, but pushing the hose with a flat blade relaxes its grip.
Find a firmly fixed vice. Clamp the seat post in it and use the whole of the frame as leverage. Never failed me yet. You may sacrifce the seat post though.
mattsccm wrote: ↑7 Apr 2021, 9:58pm
Find a firmly fixed vice. Clamp the seat post in it and use the whole of the frame as leverage. Never failed me yet. You may sacrifce the seat post though.
That's my first method of choice too, if I've decided the seatpost is dispensable.
mattsccm wrote: ↑7 Apr 2021, 9:58pm
Find a firmly fixed vice. Clamp the seat post in it and use the whole of the frame as leverage. Never failed me yet. You may sacrifce the seat post though.
Insert socket or similar good fitting item in top of seat post and wrap old inner tube round post, clamp in vice.
This will stop seat post deforming and damage hopefully.
rogerzilla wrote: ↑7 Apr 2021, 7:25pm
ISTR someone making a device which clamped the seatpost firmly and pushed on the top of the seat tube, using M. Poisson's ratio as well as brute force to pop the post out.
It's the same principle as removing a car radiator hose from its stub: pulling the hose tightens it harder, but pushing the hose with a flat blade relaxes its grip.
Worked in the motor trade for many years and one of the best "solutions" for "breaking" a seal on two "fused together" components was good old Coca Cola.
