1957 Raleigh Superbe Restoration Thread
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Re: 1957 Raleigh Superbe Restoration Thread
https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_raleigh_sp_1.html has manual in 1970 section for roller brakes etc
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Re: 1957 Raleigh Superbe Restoration Thread
shows how they or very similar bicycle made
Re: 1957 Raleigh Superbe Restoration Thread
I'm thinking either Michelin World Tour or Raleigh Record. My mother has the later on her bike and they seem to last forever. I'm also open to reusing the tyres that are already on there. They seem to have a modern type tread and look to have been put on not long before my purchase of the bike. They're a no-name Hindustan pair but they have good tread so I might keep them on... I'll count up the budget as I near the end and then I'll decide.
Also thank you for providing the source for the repair manual, I'll have a flick through to find how to earth the lighting system to the frame, I believe there is a wire thingy going to the seat bolt area but the details of that are still a mystery to me.
As for the soldering done on Friday, here are the photos of that. The 'dung weld' made by my buddy made the fender structurally sound again but now the bracket feels really rigid in it's place. Looks like crap at the moment but it's a working progress. I've filled all the holes that burned through, I have a lot of material to grind back now, after that it's just a matter of body filler.
Next step will be to cut out a piece of steel from the sheet that I used for the sliders and hammer it into a rounded shape that will fit behind the old fender light holes. I will solder those closed as well.
There's just about everything in that solder now, silver solder, lead and lead-free all mixed together... Well it worked so that's all that matters. The surface oxidation seen in the photos appeared later after the soldering in the areas that were exposed to heat, all of that will be gone after final blasting.
Also thank you for providing the source for the repair manual, I'll have a flick through to find how to earth the lighting system to the frame, I believe there is a wire thingy going to the seat bolt area but the details of that are still a mystery to me.
As for the soldering done on Friday, here are the photos of that. The 'dung weld' made by my buddy made the fender structurally sound again but now the bracket feels really rigid in it's place. Looks like crap at the moment but it's a working progress. I've filled all the holes that burned through, I have a lot of material to grind back now, after that it's just a matter of body filler.
Next step will be to cut out a piece of steel from the sheet that I used for the sliders and hammer it into a rounded shape that will fit behind the old fender light holes. I will solder those closed as well.
There's just about everything in that solder now, silver solder, lead and lead-free all mixed together... Well it worked so that's all that matters. The surface oxidation seen in the photos appeared later after the soldering in the areas that were exposed to heat, all of that will be gone after final blasting.
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Re: 1957 Raleigh Superbe Restoration Thread
I’m following in your footsteps with a oily rag restoration and riding this weekend here
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=145736 didn’t want to hijack your thread.
I have a pre war frame which I want to take my time and watching with great interest your restoration
The Raleigh records need great care to get mounted evenly and round, check them out on my thread.
Rides nice
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=145736 didn’t want to hijack your thread.
I have a pre war frame which I want to take my time and watching with great interest your restoration
The Raleigh records need great care to get mounted evenly and round, check them out on my thread.
Rides nice
Re: 1957 Raleigh Superbe Restoration Thread
I've been using Raleigh Records on my Humber for many years. They certainly look the part, and the slightly knobbly tread probably helps them when used off road.
I do wonder if they have changed a bit over the years, as I am sure the last set I bought had a much more raised tread section than previously. I suppose it could be my memory playing tricks on me though.
I have never had any difficulty fitting them to my stainless steel (rim braked type) rims.
I do wonder if they have changed a bit over the years, as I am sure the last set I bought had a much more raised tread section than previously. I suppose it could be my memory playing tricks on me though.
I have never had any difficulty fitting them to my stainless steel (rim braked type) rims.
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Re: 1957 Raleigh Superbe Restoration Thread
The ones I had one needed care it mounted and didn't allow tube to pass rim. The second I had great trouble getting the wire to sit into hooked rim and both 7mm off round without low pressure and pulling to gain a round tyre.robc02 wrote: ↑10 May 2021, 9:04am I've been using Raleigh Records on my Humber for many years. They certainly look the part, and the slightly knobbly tread probably helps them when used off road.
I do wonder if they have changed a bit over the years, as I am sure the last set I bought had a much more raised tread section than previously. I suppose it could be my memory playing tricks on me though.
I have never had any difficulty fitting them to my stainless steel (rim braked type) rims.
They certainly look the part fitted, my other choice would be Michelin world tour.
Re: 1957 Raleigh Superbe Restoration Thread
So today I got around to soldering the remaining gaps in the fender. I used a hammered piece of steel as said in previous post. Cleaned down all the rust and flux with WD-40 and a wire brush attachment on a drill. holding the new piece in place with mole grips I heated it up and proceeded to feed the solder from the inside of the fender. It's important to note here that hot solder will drip out of any gaps if it's still molten. To get around this and to get a nice build up of solder I placed the fender on a thick piece of steel. As the thick piece is always colder than my fender, even if heated, any flowing solder will solidify upon contact.
For the cable hole I used a penny. Bent and ground into shape prior. The one I used is the old penny with high copper content which made for a very strong solder bond. I applied the same technique. Here are the photos of that. I have now ground back the excess solder but I'll post photos of it on Monday, after I sandblast the whole thing.
For the cable hole I used a penny. Bent and ground into shape prior. The one I used is the old penny with high copper content which made for a very strong solder bond. I applied the same technique. Here are the photos of that. I have now ground back the excess solder but I'll post photos of it on Monday, after I sandblast the whole thing.
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Re: 1957 Raleigh Superbe Restoration Thread
Cable hole? Mine has a captive nut
Re: 1957 Raleigh Superbe Restoration Thread
I've also been cleaning down some more bits and bobs during the week in preparation for a sunny day. I have found that tooth paste makes for an excellent polishing paste. I've been using Arm & Hammer because it seems grainier than other brands. I have shined up the headlamp crystal with it as well as the reflector, it's kinda hard to show in a photo.
I will start work on the chaincase in the coming days.
Also the plan has undergone a change since my initial idea. I have rethought my chosen colour and decided to go with a hammered lathe type of blue. I've attached a photo I've found online to demonstrate the colour. It comes as I realise a lot of these parts like the fenders are pitted from rust and gloss paint will not look good on a surface like that. Hammered paint is more practical in that regard. I also think the red simply doesn't match the bike. Reviving it in new style is one thing but I think this kind of paint will match a 1950's machine a lot better than a silly red. I also think that re-emerging rust (inevitable) will also look a lot better on this type of paint...
I will start work on the chaincase in the coming days.
Also the plan has undergone a change since my initial idea. I have rethought my chosen colour and decided to go with a hammered lathe type of blue. I've attached a photo I've found online to demonstrate the colour. It comes as I realise a lot of these parts like the fenders are pitted from rust and gloss paint will not look good on a surface like that. Hammered paint is more practical in that regard. I also think the red simply doesn't match the bike. Reviving it in new style is one thing but I think this kind of paint will match a 1950's machine a lot better than a silly red. I also think that re-emerging rust (inevitable) will also look a lot better on this type of paint...
Re: 1957 Raleigh Superbe Restoration Thread
I'm assuming the hole was for cable from the rear light? Not sure though.
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Re: 1957 Raleigh Superbe Restoration Thread
I'm not posting my Swiss bike or tandem as recognisable by the bits on them as mine.
But here is my oily rag restoration and I have another pre war I have started to strip.
But here is my oily rag restoration and I have another pre war I have started to strip.
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Re: 1957 Raleigh Superbe Restoration Thread
Apologies for the delayed response - no payment is necessary, I'm delighted to have some space on my shelfKrashper wrote: ↑7 May 2021, 8:25pm Hey, no need to apologize, I just thought maybe you forgot and I didn't want you to send it for nothing... The lamp arrived today, it's in much better shape than mine, the switch works much smoother but that might be down to all that sand from the blaster stuck in my contacts...
Anyway, mine doesn't work at the present moment, I suspect it's because I haven't earthed it during my tests but if it's buggered I have something to fall back on. PM me your paypal, I'll tip you something for the lamp.
Re: 1957 Raleigh Superbe Restoration Thread
Just a quick post today. I didn't have time to blast the whole fender but I did some more grinding on it and cleaned off the bracket area to give you guys an idea of the progress. Personally, I'm really happy with how this is turning out. The two holes are completely masked off, any gaps that are left are a doddle. Only thing I have to be careful of now is not to blast this area too aggressively with the blaster as the solder erodes a lot faster than the steel.
Also I have figured out why the whole fender was covered in rust after the soldering. I couldn't figure it out at first, I cleaned off the rust and took it inside, kept it in the same conditions as the other bare parts and the rust kept coming back... Well it turns out the acid flux for plumbing solder is highly corrosive... It's important now that I clean it all off thoroughly before priming. It's become an especial pain in the gaps in the bracket area. Stuff's a knob to clean off, I've been faffing about with solvents and paint brushes to get it all out.
I also sprayed some bits and the headlamp with that Parkside Alu/Zinc spray I tested in the beginning. We had a brief moment of sunshine today. My plan for this product is to use it on all the fittings and anything that was initially chromed but became ugly... It contains zinc as does the primer so in theory it should hinder the development of new rust. Of course, some of this stuff still has most of its chrome intact which also offers some shielding. It's hard to show in the photos but this product has more metal particles than the primer, it gives a nice matt/glittery appearance.
Also I have figured out why the whole fender was covered in rust after the soldering. I couldn't figure it out at first, I cleaned off the rust and took it inside, kept it in the same conditions as the other bare parts and the rust kept coming back... Well it turns out the acid flux for plumbing solder is highly corrosive... It's important now that I clean it all off thoroughly before priming. It's become an especial pain in the gaps in the bracket area. Stuff's a knob to clean off, I've been faffing about with solvents and paint brushes to get it all out.
I also sprayed some bits and the headlamp with that Parkside Alu/Zinc spray I tested in the beginning. We had a brief moment of sunshine today. My plan for this product is to use it on all the fittings and anything that was initially chromed but became ugly... It contains zinc as does the primer so in theory it should hinder the development of new rust. Of course, some of this stuff still has most of its chrome intact which also offers some shielding. It's hard to show in the photos but this product has more metal particles than the primer, it gives a nice matt/glittery appearance.
Re: 1957 Raleigh Superbe Restoration Thread
Okay then, thank you kindlycycle tramp wrote: ↑16 May 2021, 11:46am Apologies for the delayed response - no payment is necessary, I'm delighted to have some space on my shelf
Re: 1957 Raleigh Superbe Restoration Thread
Nothing too exciting today, primed some bits yesterday and sprayed them with the Parkside Alu/Zinc today. So far I really like this product, like I said before, as with the rest of Lidl's aerosol paints range, good value for money. This stuff is really efficient and I really like how it sprays, it kinda fans out really well, unlike my primer that tends to spit. This stuff just seems to get into every cavity.
More interestingly, I have through a lucky dumpster find unearthed what seems to be a really old can of Trimite clear lacquer. I can't be sure but it's my guess. Based on the seam on the tin (no modern manufacturers use tins seamed like this) and the telex address on the can (replaced for fax in the 80's) my guess is this tin is at least 30 years old, maybe older.
The contents are still fluid, smells like regular lacquer... But I have no Idea what type of clear coat it is. No clues on the tin, just the company logo, address and phone, on both sides. No use instructions or hazard warnings, which further reinforces my belief that this is old stuff.
What impresses me is how hard and non-brittle the dried product is. Have any of you heard of this company? Or used their products? There seems to be very little info on the internet. From what I've gathered, they are a global company that works with specific-use coatings in industry. Quite old too, started over a hundred years ago. What I find odd is that you can't seem to buy any of their products... Perhaps they don't sell to the public, and only deal with big companies. Or they've just gone bust in the meantime but still maintain a fancy website.
I've written to them but I doubt they'll respond...
Any help identifying this little tin will be much appreciated.
More interestingly, I have through a lucky dumpster find unearthed what seems to be a really old can of Trimite clear lacquer. I can't be sure but it's my guess. Based on the seam on the tin (no modern manufacturers use tins seamed like this) and the telex address on the can (replaced for fax in the 80's) my guess is this tin is at least 30 years old, maybe older.
The contents are still fluid, smells like regular lacquer... But I have no Idea what type of clear coat it is. No clues on the tin, just the company logo, address and phone, on both sides. No use instructions or hazard warnings, which further reinforces my belief that this is old stuff.
What impresses me is how hard and non-brittle the dried product is. Have any of you heard of this company? Or used their products? There seems to be very little info on the internet. From what I've gathered, they are a global company that works with specific-use coatings in industry. Quite old too, started over a hundred years ago. What I find odd is that you can't seem to buy any of their products... Perhaps they don't sell to the public, and only deal with big companies. Or they've just gone bust in the meantime but still maintain a fancy website.
I've written to them but I doubt they'll respond...
Any help identifying this little tin will be much appreciated.