Drop levers and discs
- warey4life
- Posts: 85
- Joined: 5 Apr 2021, 8:08am
Drop levers and discs
Hi,
Sorry if this has been asked before. I'm having issues with getting enough pull with diacompe 287v levers. I think my issue is that I have avid BB5 MTB callipers fitted and I probably should have road callipers. Before I order new road callipers which I think require less pull I thought I'd ask for advice here.
Any feedback will be much appreciated.
Sorry if this has been asked before. I'm having issues with getting enough pull with diacompe 287v levers. I think my issue is that I have avid BB5 MTB callipers fitted and I probably should have road callipers. Before I order new road callipers which I think require less pull I thought I'd ask for advice here.
Any feedback will be much appreciated.
Re: Drop levers and discs
If they are the MTB version of BB5s and they are the 287v version of that lever, then they are the correct pairing.
In my experience, although the 287v lever pulls the correct amount of cable for an MTB caliper or a V brake, they are not particularly good levers. I think that is probably because they are a modification of a standard road pull lever, the 287, and the extra cable pull is achieved by a cam inside the lever (visible when you look inside the brake from the front and pull the lever). In other words, the rest of the design is unchanged from the road version, including the position of the pivot point.
I find the Tektro RL520 lever to be much better, because it was designed from the ground up to be used with MTB calipers and V brakes, with the pivot positioning and lever designed to pull the extra amount of cable needed, and consequently it has a nicer and much lighter action than the 287v. I think the only major disadvantage of the levers, compared with 287v's, is that people with very small hands might find them less comfortable to operate, because I think the pivot point and lever position might be a stretch for shorter hands.
I would suggest trying Tektro RL520 levers before buying new calipers.
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m7b0s103p31 ... ake-Levers
https://www.merlincycles.com/tektro-rl5 ... 60437.html
In my experience, although the 287v lever pulls the correct amount of cable for an MTB caliper or a V brake, they are not particularly good levers. I think that is probably because they are a modification of a standard road pull lever, the 287, and the extra cable pull is achieved by a cam inside the lever (visible when you look inside the brake from the front and pull the lever). In other words, the rest of the design is unchanged from the road version, including the position of the pivot point.
I find the Tektro RL520 lever to be much better, because it was designed from the ground up to be used with MTB calipers and V brakes, with the pivot positioning and lever designed to pull the extra amount of cable needed, and consequently it has a nicer and much lighter action than the 287v. I think the only major disadvantage of the levers, compared with 287v's, is that people with very small hands might find them less comfortable to operate, because I think the pivot point and lever position might be a stretch for shorter hands.
I would suggest trying Tektro RL520 levers before buying new calipers.
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m7b0s103p31 ... ake-Levers
https://www.merlincycles.com/tektro-rl5 ... 60437.html
Re: Drop levers and discs
I'm not sure thats all there is to it. I had a scrabble about in the scrap bin, and found an old set of the Dia Compe levers. Viewed from the back, there are 3 features.....slowster wrote: ↑5 Apr 2021, 11:18am If they are the MTB version of BB5s and they are the 287v version of that lever, then they are the correct pairing.
In my experience, although the 287v lever pulls the correct amount of cable for an MTB caliper or a V brake, they are not particularly good levers. I think that is probably because they are a modification of a standard road pull lever, the 287, and the extra cable pull is achieved by a cam inside the lever (visible when you look inside the brake from the front and pull the lever). In other words, the rest of the design is unchanged from the road version, including the position of the pivot point................
IMG_5396 by 531colin, on Flickr
The hole for the bolt holding the clamp band is at the bottom, with a handy bit of red wire through it.
In the middle is the (un-drilled) location for the cable exit for "normal" pull....with a recess to take the cable outer.
At the top, with daylight coming through, is the hole for the "long pull" cable position. This is right under the top of the lever, there is no room for a recess for the cable outer, so they have used those curious short bits of Vee brake noodle. I think that may be the problem; I think you can get a better cable run with flexible Vee brake noodles, which fit the existing hole, although its probably worth grinding the end of the noodle flat.
IMG_5399 by 531colin, on Flickr
I don't have a regular pull lever to compare with, but it looks to me like the lever blade (formed from sheet metal?) might be un-altered. The original cable anchor might be the hole next to my finger; in the long-pull lever its used as one anchor for a bit of ali. which takes the brake cable (marked by my handy bit of red wire). The cable is therefore further from the pivot. I THINK!!
Having said all that, I now have several sets of the Tektro levers in use, one set operates BB7 MTB disc calipers, the rest full-size vee brakes.
Bike fitting D.I.Y. .....http://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/bike-set-up-2017a.pdf
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
Re: Drop levers and discs
Interesting. I've never liked the lever action of the 287V's when I used them, but I did like the ergonomics of the curved lever hood. If those noodles are the problem, I might try the 287V's again. Jagwire supply a flexible noodle with the road version of their compressionless brake cable kits which I think might be ideal, and SJS sell them individually for £1.99.531colin wrote: ↑6 Apr 2021, 11:47amAt the top, with daylight coming through, is the hole for the "long pull" cable position. This is right under the top of the lever, there is no room for a recess for the cable outer, so they have used those curious short bits of Vee brake noodle. I think that may be the problem; I think you can get a better cable run with flexible Vee brake noodles, which fit the existing hole, although its probably worth grinding the end of the noodle flat.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cables/jagw ... -5mm-each/
I remain bemused by the design of the 287V. Instead of a pivoting housing for the nipple, the nipple is housed in the solid piece of aluminium visible in your second photograph, and the cable rests on and bends around the curved part of the aluminium when the lever is pulled. I had presumed that the purpose of the bend was to act as a cam and increase the amount of cable pulled, but looking at it again I don't think it would make the difference between the amount of extra cable pull required for a V brake vs. a cantilever. I've just measured the distance from the lever pivot to the nipple head, and it's the same for the 287V and for the RL520: ~36mm (compared with ~22mm for a Tektro RL340 road pull lever).
I presume that in the road pull version of the 287 (which appears to have been discontinued) the solid piece of aluminium holding the nipple is a different shape in order to position the nipple closer to the lever pivot.
Re: Drop levers and discs
I think the "standard pull" lever had a regular pivoting cable nipple carrier in those holes by my finger in the photo....I had a measure, and those holes are about 18mm from the lever pivot.....thats the same as an old (pre-NSSLR or whatever the acronym is) Shimano lever.
Shimano used to make levers where you could vary the cable pull by moving a "cam"
IMG_5146 by 531colin, on Flickr
Here the "H" and "L" are for High and Low brake force not cable pull....which I find confusing! The cable nipple is secured right out where my finger is, where you can see a rivet.
Shimano used to make levers where you could vary the cable pull by moving a "cam"
IMG_5146 by 531colin, on Flickr
Here the "H" and "L" are for High and Low brake force not cable pull....which I find confusing! The cable nipple is secured right out where my finger is, where you can see a rivet.
Bike fitting D.I.Y. .....http://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/bike-set-up-2017a.pdf
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
- warey4life
- Posts: 85
- Joined: 5 Apr 2021, 8:08am
Re: Drop levers and discs
Thanks for the info guys. I'm not that impressed with the quality of the 287v leavers, I think they are a bit of a bodge job in terms of design. I originally fitted them with the metal noodles but they added cable drag so I removed them. They seem to work better without the noodles but I've had to adjust pads very close to the discs and still the leaver at full pull is almost touching the drop bars.
I think slowster's advice to get Tektro RL520 leavers is the way to go.
I think slowster's advice to get Tektro RL520 leavers is the way to go.
Re: Drop levers and discs
I'm sure you will be OK with the Tektro levers; I have about 4 sets, although only one set working disc calipers, these are BB7 MTB calipers.
IMG_5139 by 531colin, on Flickr
Arthritic hands prevent me from riding drops these days, so I have had to butcher the levers considerably to get enough travel on my bullbars, as well as use a tortuous cable route. ... flexible brake noodles to get round the 90deg bend at the lever.
On drop bars, you will probably get more lever movement than I have been able to achieve?
"Lost motion" is the enemy; i haven't splashed out on "compressionless" brake outer cable, but I have ground flat every cut end of cable outer.
IMG_5139 by 531colin, on Flickr
Arthritic hands prevent me from riding drops these days, so I have had to butcher the levers considerably to get enough travel on my bullbars, as well as use a tortuous cable route. ... flexible brake noodles to get round the 90deg bend at the lever.
On drop bars, you will probably get more lever movement than I have been able to achieve?
"Lost motion" is the enemy; i haven't splashed out on "compressionless" brake outer cable, but I have ground flat every cut end of cable outer.
Bike fitting D.I.Y. .....http://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/bike-set-up-2017a.pdf
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
Tracks in the Dales etc...http://www.flickr.com/photos/52358536@N06/collections/
- warey4life
- Posts: 85
- Joined: 5 Apr 2021, 8:08am
Re: Drop levers and discs
Fitted the Tektro RL520 levers today. Overall better feel and easily enough pull for my BB5 MTB callipers. Just need some bar end shifters and grip tape now.
Wasn't impressed with the Dia Compe 287v at all.
Wasn't impressed with the Dia Compe 287v at all.
- warey4life
- Posts: 85
- Joined: 5 Apr 2021, 8:08am
Re: Drop levers and discs
That's some seriously customised handlebars!531colin wrote: ↑7 Apr 2021, 9:14am I'm sure you will be OK with the Tektro levers; I have about 4 sets, although only one set working disc calipers, these are BB7 MTB calipers.
IMG_5139 by 531colin, on Flickr
Arthritic hands prevent me from riding drops these days, so I have had to butcher the levers considerably to get enough travel on my bullbars, as well as use a tortuous cable route. ... flexible brake noodles to get round the 90deg bend at the lever.
On drop bars, you will probably get more lever movement than I have been able to achieve?
"Lost motion" is the enemy; i haven't splashed out on "compressionless" brake outer cable, but I have ground flat every cut end of cable outer.
Re: Drop levers and discs
I once bought some of the Dia Compes for a tandem and thought they were truly nasty, horrible things. Absolute rip off at £30. I sent them straight back and bought the Tektros.warey4life wrote: ↑10 Apr 2021, 6:20pm Fitted the Tektro RL520 levers today. Overall better feel and easily enough pull for my BB5 MTB callipers. Just need some bar end shifters and grip tape now.
Wasn't impressed with the Dia Compe 287v at all.