The Mysteries of Tube Replacement

[jacobean]

Traditionally, the sequence I have used for tube replacement has been:

1) Take off wheel and remove old tube
2) Inspect outer and inner sections of tyre for thorns, glass, tacks, nails etc.,
3) Insert the new tube into the cavity of the tyre
4) Put new tyre on wheel and then use tyre levers to gently ease it into position.
5) Then inflate.

Seemingly, I've got my sequence wrong. I should not place tube in tyre. I should pu the tyre around rims first and then start tucking in the new tube underneath it. Even though, step #3 seems much more intuitive. What is the reason you should always tuck in the tube AFTER the tyre is on the rims?

[Jdsk]

The technique needs to reduce the chance of the tube being trapped under the bead of the tyre.

It's usually thought to be undesirable to use levers to refit the tyre.

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... stallation
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html

Jonathan

[mattsccm]

Answer to your final questrion.
It's easier.

[BerlinMatt]

If your way is working stick with it. I inspect the tyre while it is still on the rim (just removing the bead on one side) this is a slightly quicker method. If you're riding in a group and have to stop to fix a puncture there will always be somebody telling you you are doing it wrong

[PH]

There's no right or wrong, do it your own way.
Well apart from 4, that's always wrong

[Cyril Haearn]

Yes, no, number 4, I do not use tyre levers to put the tyre back on, I use my hands only, can be quite hard, I only use tyre levers to get it off. Is that right/normal?

[Jdsk]

Yes, no, number 4, I do not use tyre levers to put the tyre back on, I use my hands only, can be quite hard, I only use tyre levers to get it off. Is that right/normal?

As above. It's widely thought to be undesirable to use levers to refit tyres.

But some tyres on some rims are very difficult to refit without them. This is discussed extensively in the archives with a collection of tips (drop the tyre in the well, use straps, do it from the other side... ). It seems to be more common than previously.

Some less aggressive tools are available specifically for refitting.

Jonathan

[VinceLedge]

I have just got some new Mavic rims and there was no way I could have got the tyres on without levers for the last bit. A bit strange as they were the same tyres I had on the old Mavic rims , which went on with just fingers!

[531colin]

Traditionally, the sequence I have used for tube replacement has been:

1) Take off wheel and remove old tube
2) Inspect outer and inner sections of tyre for thorns, glass, tacks, nails etc.,
3) Insert the new tube into the cavity of the tyre
4) Put new tyre on wheel and then use tyre levers to gently ease it into position.
5) Then inflate.

Seemingly, I've got my sequence wrong. I should not place tube in tyre. I should pu the tyre around rims first and then start tucking in the new tube underneath it. Even though, step #3 seems much more intuitive. What is the reason you should always tuck in the tube AFTER the tyre is on the rims?

1) Wheel off, remove tyre and tube completely.
2) inspect tyre (much easier when off the wheel)
3) Put a few pump strokes of air into the inner; fit the inner into the tyre with the valve lined up with the tyre branding **
4) Put the tyre on the rim BY HAND, inflate.

**If you miss something in the tyre, the hole in the tune tells you where to look in the tyre....but only if you line them up!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4

[Marcus Aurelius]

I try not to use levers to get the tyre back on, with a tube, it ( pretty much ) always encourages a tube nip, or an instant puncture. Some tyres are a sod to get on the rim, and there’s not much choice in the matter if that’s the case. With the bikes I’m using inner tubes on, I’ll try and inflate the tube a bit, before putting it back in the tyre, it stops any issues with bad fitting that way.

[jacobean]

Thanks for the great replies.

The technique needs to reduce the chance of the tube being trapped under the bead of the tyre.

Yes, this exactly what I'm trying to prevent. The motivation for this post was yesterday, when using my usual technique, I discovered there was the dreaded bulge near the valve. Other times, I've replaced tubes only to discover when you spin the wheel around, it gives the impression of a serious buckle. I was thinking there had to be a better way...

Very interesting video Colin - I never know it could be done without levers. That technique could come in handy someday caught in the middle-of-no where sans tyre levers.

It's only during lockdown someone would want to master the seeming banal art of puncture repair!

[jb]

1. Try to find puncture.
2. Take one side of the tyre off
3. Remove most of the tube except valve if you haven't found the puncture.
4. Inflate tube & look for puncture then check tyre at this spot.
5. Replace tube.
6. Starting opposite the valve push tyre back on so it's deep in the well, then push the final bit by the valve into place without levers if possible. If not gently nudge it over with a plastic lever kneeling on the wheel & tyre to stop the bead coming out.

[Steve]

Nobody has (so far) mentioned at what point you should tighten the nut on the valve.....

[Paulatic]

If you bother with a nut , extra weight , then it’s after you’ve blown it up to pressure. Do it before and it’s loose after you’ve blown up.

[Jamesh]

Also to the above once generally inflated I usually check the bead is seated well and the tyre is equally true all round the rim.

Cheers James