How to eliminate Dandelions From the Yard

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Johnnathan
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Joined: 25 May 2021, 1:44pm
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How to eliminate Dandelions From the Yard

Post by Johnnathan »

Dandelions, with their small yellow flowers and fluffy seed puffs, could be a nuisance to gardeners after they pop up the place they're not wanted. Above ground their seeds ride the wind currents to propagate the species. And below ground the weed sends down a taproot up to 10 inches long that is often difficult to remove in its entirety. Gardeners typically approach dandelion removal in two ways: pulling the plant or spraying it with herbicide.



When to get rid of Dandelions
Dandelions are broadleaf, herbaceous perennials that die back in the winter, though the plant's roots live on underground.1? In the early fall, nutrients are transferred from the leaves to the roots, making this the best time to use herbicide. Chemicals applied during this time will be absorbed by the leaves and passed on to the roots along with the nutrients.

Image

How to get rid of Red Wine Stains From Carpet
You can harvest and eat dandelion greens in the spring.2? The leaves could be boiled or used raw in a salad. This superfood is rich in vitamin A, vitamin C, and iron. Moreover, the flower might be used in wine or boiled and stir-fried. And the roots is usually dried and steeped for a tea. For the best taste, harvest dandelion greens and dig up their roots before the plant goes to seed.



Warning
When pulling dandelions to eat, avoid harvesting near roads where by road salt or other toxins might be present. Likewise, don't harvest from a lawn wherever herbicides and other chemicals have been used. Always thoroughly wash the dandelions before consuming.



What You'll Need
Equipment / Tools
Garden spade or pitchfork
Gardening gloves
Protective clothing
Garden hose or sprinkler
Pump sprayer
Dandelion puller (optional)
Materials
Broadleaf herbicide
Grass seed


Instructions
Hand-Pulling Dandelions
As with any weed-pulling method, persistence is key. It might take several seasons to fully eradicate dandelions in your yard. Plus, dandelion roots can easily split as you pull them, and any fraction left behind will regenerate the plant.



Water Area
Water the area with the dandelions to loosen the soil, and then wait for about half an hour. Weeds are more easily extricated from wet soil.



Make an Incision in the Soil
Using a garden spade or pitchfork, make an incision in the soil alongside the taproot (the long, thick root growing deep into the ground). Wiggle the tool to loosen the taproot.



Pry up the Dandelion
Grip the leaves, and tug them gently until the taproot comes out of the earth.



Make Further Incisions, if Necessary
If there is still too much tension on the taproot for the plant to slide out of the soil, make further incisions around the root. Then, continue to tug gently at the leaves until it comes free.



Reseed Area
Reseed the area with grass seed, and water any bare spots.



Killing Dandelions With Herbicide
It's best to avoid using chemicals when alternative weed protocols exist. However, if your pulling efforts don't eliminate the problem, you might want to use a broadleaf herbicide as a last resort. However, make sure you check safety warnings on the product for kids, pets, and the environment. And verify that it won't kill wanted plants, including your grass.



Select Herbicide
Select an appropriate broadleaf herbicide.



Choose a Sunny Week
Check the weather, and wait for a sunny, dry week.

For more info: https://backyardmash.com/

Prepare the Herbicide in Your Pump
Put on gardening gloves and protective clothing. Add the herbicide to your pump sprayer, mixing it with water per package directions.



Apply Herbicide
Using the sprayer, apply the herbicide to the dandelions in your property. Allow it to dry.



Wait
Wait several days until the dandelions' foliage turns brown before you water your lawn again.



Reseed Area
Once dead, pull out or rake up the dandelion remains. Reseed the area with grass seed after waiting at least three days from the chemical application.



Tips for Removing Dandelions
If you're serious about nontoxic removal methods, purchase a dandelion puller. This garden tool is specifically built to get the job done.

Horticultural vinegar (made of 20 percent acetic acid) may be used in place of a chemical herbicide. The high level of acetic acid gives it a herbicidal punch. But note that vinegar kills grass, so be very careful during application.

For at least two or three days before applying herbicide, don't mow the lawn. The bigger the dandelion leaves are, the more effective your application will be. Likewise, wait at least two or three days before mowing after your application to allow time for the chemical to be transferred to the roots.



Preventative Dandelion Control
Promoting lawn health is the best method of dandelion control. Don't think of your grass as a passive partner needing rescue from weeds. If managed properly, your lawn can compete against weeds, eliminating the need for laborious dandelion removal.

Leave grass clippings on your lawn.3? They will act as a mulch to prevent weed seeds from germinating. When you mow, leave the grass at a height of 2 to 3 inches. This will allow the grass to "protect its own turf" by depriving weeds of the light they need. And don't let bare spots remain, as they invite the invasion of opportunistic weeds. In the fall, fill in bare spots by overseeding.
Last edited by Johnnathan on 7 Jul 2021, 6:21am, edited 1 time in total.
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531colin
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Location: North Yorkshire

Re: Seat post protrusion?

Post by 531colin »

colin54
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Joined: 24 Sep 2013, 4:34pm

Re: Seat post protrusion?

Post by colin54 »

Some more pin-points in this thread..
viewtopic.php?t=103169
Nu-Fogey
JohnW
Posts: 6667
Joined: 6 Jan 2007, 9:12pm
Location: Yorkshire

Re: Seat post protrusion?

Post by JohnW »

Personally, if the limit is marked (and it is on all seatpins that I've ever had) I'd stay within prescribed limits.
I see them as being there for a purpose.
gregoryoftours
Posts: 2240
Joined: 22 May 2011, 7:14pm

Re: Seat post protrusion?

Post by gregoryoftours »

You might be ok with raising the post a bit over the maximum if it's a well fitting seatpost and it goes into the seat tube at least beyond the bottom of the joint with the top tube. But 2cm personally I'd be looking for a longer seatpost.
zenitb
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Re: Seat post protrusion?

Post by zenitb »

Here's one I prepared earlier
Old and new ...
Old and new ...
And its replacement :-)

In fairness this was after about 15 years of abuse ...
JohnW
Posts: 6667
Joined: 6 Jan 2007, 9:12pm
Location: Yorkshire

Re: Seat post protrusion?

Post by JohnW »

zenitb wrote: 28 May 2021, 2:09am Here's one I prepared earlier
2017-12-02 18.35.12(1).jpg
And its replacement :-)

In fairness this was after about 15 years of abuse ...
frippin' 'eck zenit - did it go with a bang? :shock:
zenitb
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Re: Seat post protrusion?

Post by zenitb »

JohnW wrote: 28 May 2021, 1:15pm
zenitb wrote: 28 May 2021, 2:09am Here's one I prepared earlier
2017-12-02 18.35.12(1).jpg
And its replacement :-)

In fairness this was after about 15 years of abuse ...
frippin' 'eck zenit - did it go with a bang? :shock:
John it was actually quite a weird experience.

I was cycling to work up a reasonably steep hill (1 in 8 maybe ?) in the saddle. This puts maximum leverage on the post because the angle of the hill gets added to the normal seatpost angle..putting a real strain on the post in the backwards direction . The post then started to "pivot" backwards..almost like a reclining seat. I automatically took my weight with my legs and there was a clatter as the seat and post fell away behind the bike. I guess the "pivoting/reclining" was the remaining bit of the seatpost shearing away...it was all quite gentle really - maybe I was lucky?
could have been nasty ???
could have been nasty ???
Fracture ...
Fracture ...
Cycling home 7 miles that evening was "interesting". I had a few stops :-)
User avatar
531colin
Posts: 16148
Joined: 4 Dec 2009, 6:56pm
Location: North Yorkshire

Re: Seat post protrusion?

Post by 531colin »

The only time I ever had a seatpost fail I was going downhill on fixed.....it was interesting!
This was an old straight alloy seatpost (like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154026857845 ... ca7fefa4a8)
.........from the days when they had just started making them in alloy, and I think they used the same thickness alloy as they did in steel, or not much thicker.......the swaged down section makes a stress-raiser, helped along by scoring up from a Brooks type saddle clamp.
.....Its the sort of thing which you get warned about these days on sites like this, but no internet in those days!
JohnW
Posts: 6667
Joined: 6 Jan 2007, 9:12pm
Location: Yorkshire

Re: Seat post protrusion?

Post by JohnW »

zenitb wrote: 28 May 2021, 3:50pm
JohnW wrote: 28 May 2021, 1:15pm
zenitb wrote: 28 May 2021, 2:09am Here's one I prepared earlier
2017-12-02 18.35.12(1).jpg
And its replacement :-)

In fairness this was after about 15 years of abuse ...
frippin' 'eck zenit - did it go with a bang? :shock:
John it was actually quite a weird experience.

I was cycling to work up a reasonably steep hill (1 in 8 maybe ?) in the saddle. This puts maximum leverage on the post because the angle of the hill gets added to the normal seatpost angle..putting a real strain on the post in the backwards direction . The post then started to "pivot" backwards..almost like a reclining seat. I automatically took my weight with my legs and there was a clatter as the seat and post fell away behind the bike. I guess the "pivoting/reclining" was the remaining bit of the seatpost shearing away...it was all quite gentle really - maybe I was lucky?
Cycling home 7 miles that evening was "interesting". I had a few stops :-)
All I can say is "Gosh", and I'm glad you're OK. I imagine that "weird" doesn't fully cover it. Apart from the discomfort of the ride home, the event could have been worse.

At the risk of being flippant, there are things that we don't carry spares for!
rogerzilla
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Joined: 9 Jun 2008, 8:06pm

Re: Seat post protrusion?

Post by rogerzilla »

The general rule is for the post to be inserted to at least 1" below the top tube, which is about 2 1/2" in total if you have a horizontal top tube and a fairly standard seat lug. These days, though, most frames have sloping top tubes and no true seat lug (which provides some reinforcement where it exists). This means a much longer post is needed.
Tompsk
Posts: 195
Joined: 6 Nov 2014, 9:35am

Re: Seat post protrusion?

Post by Tompsk »

I think having any seatpost below where the seat tube is butted has little effect. You could also measure the minimum insertion length on the seat post and then shorten the seat post to ensure that minimum length is still inside for your personal fitting. Unfortunately that customises it for you on that frame and could make it dangerous when reused, especially if the original min setting is still on the (now shorter) post.
Some older posts have fluting near the top, it was never clear to me if that was safe to have in the frame. Those could let water down the seat tube too.
zenitb
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Joined: 7 Aug 2018, 9:59pm
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Re: Seat post protrusion?

Post by zenitb »

Tompsk wrote: 29 May 2021, 8:20am I think having any seatpost below where the seat tube is butted has little effect. ...
hmm.. I thought that usually the seat tube is single butted Tom so surely you would not be able to get the seatpost "below where the seat tube is butted" ?

Traditional Single Butted Seat Tube .. showing seatpost
Traditional Single Butted Seat Tube .. showing seatpost

Or were you thinking of double butted tubing ? My understanding (ok from Tony Oliver's very old book) is that a single butted seat tube is used and best practice is to ream it out after brazing to correct any heat distortion of the tube. Whether this still happens on modern TIG welded frames I am unsure .. maybe someone can chip in ... :-)
Tompsk
Posts: 195
Joined: 6 Nov 2014, 9:35am

Re: Seat post protrusion?

Post by Tompsk »

zenitb wrote: 31 May 2021, 5:07pm
Tompsk wrote: 29 May 2021, 8:20am I think having any seatpost below where the seat tube is butted has little effect. ...
hmm.. I thought that usually the seat tube is single butted Tom so surely you would not be able to get the seatpost "below where the seat tube is butted" ?


single butted.JPG


Or were you thinking of double butted tubing ? My understanding (ok from Tony Oliver's very old book) is that a single butted seat tube is used and best practice is to ream it out after brazing to correct any heat distortion of the tube. Whether this still happens on modern TIG welded frames I am unsure .. maybe someone can chip in ... :-)
Yes, double butted as in DB main tubes on a higher quality 531 frame (showing my age there). Obviously inserting a seat post beyond the butting on a single butted seat tube could be a rather one way process!
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