Stack and reach are great for those with already good fits, but...

[Jamesh]

Possibly....

https://www.cyclesuk.com/content/2019-c ... guide.aspx

Cheers James

[MountainSurfer]

I was reading that the Synapse SE (Synapse gravel bike version) is exactly the same frame as the regular Synapse, just with different wheels, gear ratios (super compact chainring/bigger cassette) and Si crank instead of FSA.

The Synapse I'm looking at has the Si crank already, and I'd be buying an extra wheelset with bigger cassette anyway, so it seems as though as long as the frame isn't going to be a detriment, then it should be fine. At least gives me another option to think about.

[MountainSurfer]

I'll see if I can figure out a way to do side shots, I don't have a trainer or rack that will keep the bike stationary whilst I'm on it.

If possible it would be better with you actually riding it. Many people change position when stationary.

How about using a smart 'phone to record video as you ride past?

Jonathan

Short video of my riding position below.



I did a 12 mile ride around my neighbourhood today. After about 20 mins in, I started to get lower back pain which persisted throughout and is a bit sore now. Any thoughts on what I should try adjusting? I wonder whether it's because my lower back is slightly rounded when I'm on the hoods (majority of the time)? Perhaps I need to increase reach a bit? (seatpost up? saddle set back? lower handlebars? longer stem?) Advice appreciated.

[gxaustin]

The other option seems to be to pay a hell of a lot of money for a bike fit.

What are you calling "a hell of a lot of money" though? If you are spending £2,000 on a bike might it not be worthwhile to make sure you get the right size?

[MountainSurfer]

You know what, I've just been looking at options for a proper bike fit this evening after being so sore after only an hour of riding. They're all in the £180-200 range and that price to me seemed too much given I'm a beginner and getting a reasonable fit with the minimum expectation of no pain seems like it would be not too difficult to achieve without having to spend so much.

But I've managed to find a local place that actually does the whole 2 hour fit, set up your bike, and give you the measurements afterwards for only £65 so I may well avail myself of that opportunity. It would not only give optimal bike fit on the current and upcoming bike, but also help me decide once and for all which size is best for me for any bike in the future.

[LuckyLuke]

Hi, I had a bike fitting at www.the bike whisperer.co.uk in 2015. Cost then was £265 and it was a whole day session.
It’s based on the Steve Hogg bike fitting method. I believe Colin 531’s doc is also influenced by Steve Hogg.
It’s a lot of money, was it worth it? For me I think so. I had R. knee pain when cycling longer distances, which prompted the visit. The guy realigned my cleats and altered my position, and recommended some core strengthening exercises. The combo of the bike fit & exercises cured the problem.
If I were you I’d start with Colin’s set up guide. A steel metre ruler, 30cm steel ruler and spirit level, maybe a plumb line are useful. Once you are happy on your existing bike your set up measurements can help guide you as to which future bikes could fit you.
Best wishes and good luck,
Luke

[slowster]

I did a 12 mile ride around my neighbourhood today. After about 20 mins in, I started to get lower back pain which persisted throughout and is a bit sore now.

In the absence of an existing known problem or injury, getting lower back pain so soon into a ride (and problems persisting post ride) indicates that something is wrong. Possible (and not mutually exclusive) causes might include:

1. Riding in too big a gear
2. Poor bike position
3. Weak core muscles

I suspect that 1 is the most likely/principal cause in your case, both because using higher gears is something many novice cyclists do and because road bikes tend to be relatively highly geared (even more so if you ride in a hilly area). One of the main fitness adaptions that most people make when they progress from a novice to cycling frequently and longer distances is to pedal at a higher cadence, i.e. unlike a novice pushing a high gear at a low cadence they will ride at a similar speed in a smaller gear at a higher cadence. If you are spending a lot of time riding with your chain on the big front chainring, try doing that same ride with the chain in the small ring instead throughout the ride.

[531colin]

One other thing about bike fits; they may be wanting to set you up in a "racing" position, often by the application of formulae, that is fitting you into some sort of "average" position, rather than fitting the bike to you. If you want a "recreational" position, be sure they are aware of this and will help you achieve it.

Pity the vid. is so short, and its more use to see you as you actually ride, ie. not just toddling across the front of the camera (re. slowsters comments about cadence).

However;
saddle height looks good.
For a (new?) recreational cyclist your torso is quite stretched out and quite low.
Recreational cyclists generally end up with back and arms about 45 degrees to horizontal.........

foot level on bottom pedal by 531colin, on Flickr

check your saddle setback by Steve Hogg's balance method

Balanced position by 531colin, on Flickr

Steve Hogg says racing cyclists should be able to hold their "drops" position without hands; i reckon recreational cyclists should be able to hold their "hoods" position as I am doing above.
https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bi ... oad-bikes/

Once the saddle setback is right, you have saddle height and setback set up right, which is half the battle.....give us another vid. and I expect i will tell you to try the bars both higher and closer.

Don't forget, world class professional cyclists do cycling as their job; even if the rest of us had their genetic advantages (we don't) we don't have the time or inclination to train all day to be able to hold the positions they can.

[MountainSurfer]

I did a 12 mile ride around my neighbourhood today. After about 20 mins in, I started to get lower back pain which persisted throughout and is a bit sore now.

In the absence of an existing known problem or injury, getting lower back pain so soon into a ride (and problems persisting post ride) indicates that something is wrong. Possible (and not mutually exclusive) causes might include:

1. Riding in too big a gear
2. Poor bike position
3. Weak core muscles

I suspect that 1 is the most likely/principal cause in your case, both because using higher gears is something many novice cyclists do and because road bikes tend to be relatively highly geared (even more so if you ride in a hilly area). One of the main fitness adaptions that most people make when they progress from a novice to cycling frequently and longer distances is to pedal at a higher cadence, i.e. unlike a novice pushing a high gear at a low cadence they will ride at a similar speed in a smaller gear at a higher cadence. If you are spending a lot of time riding with your chain on the big front chainring, try doing that same ride with the chain in the small ring instead throughout the ride.

1 is likely to be true. I have noticed I ride in the big ring a lot and am actively trying to ride in the small ring with higher cadence. This will come with practice. I suspect 2 is also true, given I've done very little to the bike other than reposition saddle height. 3 is not an issue.

One other thing about bike fits; they may be wanting to set you up in a "racing" position, often by the application of formulae, that is fitting you into some sort of "average" position, rather than fitting the bike to you. If you want a "recreational" position, be sure they are aware of this and will help you achieve it.

Pity the vid. is so short, and its more use to see you as you actually ride, ie. not just toddling across the front of the camera (re. slowsters comments about cadence).

However;
saddle height looks good.
For a (new?) recreational cyclist your torso is quite stretched out and quite low.
Recreational cyclists generally end up with back and arms about 45 degrees to horizontal.........

foot level on bottom pedal by 531colin, on Flickr

check your saddle setback by Steve Hogg's balance method

Balanced position by 531colin, on Flickr

Steve Hogg says racing cyclists should be able to hold their "drops" position without hands; i reckon recreational cyclists should be able to hold their "hoods" position as I am doing above.
https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bi ... oad-bikes/

Once the saddle setback is right, you have saddle height and setback set up right, which is half the battle.....give us another vid. and I expect i will tell you to try the bars both higher and closer.

Don't forget, world class professional cyclists do cycling as their job; even if the rest of us had their genetic advantages (we don't) we don't have the time or inclination to train all day to be able to hold the positions they can.

Thanks Colin, will do and report back.