seized adjustable cup - cup and cone BB

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hoogerbooger
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seized adjustable cup - cup and cone BB

Post by hoogerbooger »

This old MTB fettle may beat me. Managed to get fixed cup off in the vice.........but that was a struggle after attempt to get WD40 & penetrating oil to threads. Frame now in a stand and have been trying to soak penetrating oil into adjustable cup from the back. Was out in the sun yesterday and have tried heating and cooling using hot air gun and lots of bashing with rubber mallet.
stuck cup.jpg
My 2 pin adjustable peg spanner is now weakened/dead having bent under strain.

Had a go at a Sheldon brown type device ( but I have no lock washers so metal tube and small washers to fit seal recess):
rubbish tool.jpg
But the big big washer has warped a bit and bolt just turns/slips on washers.

So should lock washers stop the turning ? give me a chance of winning ? any other tips

penetrating oil I used was a v old halfords graphite based one ...what's the best ?

(thinking about it the big washer warped as the bolt is too narrow and the big washer too thin)
old fangled
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Mick F
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Re: seized adjustable cup - cup and cone BB

Post by Mick F »

On the inside, are you using a washer?
I would think that the bare bolt-head would grip the bearing surface better. Sort of "dig in" and grip.

The method I'm aware of, is to use a socket and extension to go through the BB to turn the bolt-head clockwise whist making sure the nut on the outside is as tight as you can get it.

Is that what you're doing?
Mick F. Cornwall
hoogerbooger
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Re: seized adjustable cup - cup and cone BB

Post by hoogerbooger »

Hi Mick

yes, socket on extension through from drive side turning clockwise ( so trying to turn adjustable cup anti-clockwise) . On inside have washer that fits the seal recess width then a hefty solid 2cm long 'tube' that is slightly narrower than the washer in the recess. On outside two nuts to lock.

(The recess for the seal means there is little further flat face on the inside before the race section - so looks best on inside to clamp against the recess section))
Last edited by hoogerbooger on 24 Jun 2021, 6:28pm, edited 1 time in total.
old fangled
rjb
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Re: seized adjustable cup - cup and cone BB

Post by rjb »

You don't need two nuts on the outside. If locked together this could prevent the bolt tightening up tight on the cup meaning it slips. Tighten the bolt with one nut as tight as you can then attempt to tighten the bolt using an extension through the bottom bracket. As it then tightens further it should prevent the bolt from slipping.
Ps try tightening the single bolt from the outside which may screw the adjustable cup in a fraction further but may also break any corrosion bond. :wink:
At the last count:- Peugeot 531 pro, Dawes Discovery Tandem, Dawes Kingpin X3, Raleigh 20 stowaway X2, 1965 Moulton deluxe, Falcon K2 MTB dropped bar tourer, Rudge Bi frame folder, Longstaff trike conversion on a Giant XTC 840 :D
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531colin
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Re: seized adjustable cup - cup and cone BB

Post by 531colin »

I think you need a bigger nut and bolt.....eg the ones that fix car seatbelts...big diameter without a really coarse thread.....but the head is a bit low, you need a decent fitting socket.
The locknut is counter-productive....you want the torque you apply to the bolt head to tighten the nut and bolt in the cup. Similarly, washers only encourage the bolt to slip in the cup.
Alternatively, get a really big lever or big nut welded onto the cup....the heat shock of welding will often break the seal.
If all else fails, those bearing cups are usually hard enough that you can crack them out. Put the frame fixed cup down on a substantial lump of wood, like you might chop firewood on. Put a cold chisel through the BB shell onto the fixed cup, and give it a really good crack with a one pound hammer at least, although 2 1/2 pound implies desperation! The cup will shatter into enough bits that you can pick them out. (this was an uncommon failure mode of those BBs....the fixed cup would fail into a disc round the axle and the threaded bit still in the BB shell....possibly due to significant over-tightening.)
slowster
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Re: seized adjustable cup - cup and cone BB

Post by slowster »

From https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html:
You might worry about damaging the cup, but this is not likely to happen. The washer doesn't usually come into contact with the bearing surface. Even if it did, bearing cups are made of extraordinarily hard, heat-treated steel, much stronger than that used to make washers.
The procedure you need to follow is the same as that he described for italian threaded fixed cups:
To remove a right-threaded fixed cup (French or Italian), tighten the bolt with the socket wrench from the inside of the bottom bracket, holding the nut with the box wrench. Once the bolt is as tight as can be, keep on tightening it, until the cup screws itself out. Once the cup starts to move, turn both wrenches together.
I cannot see the purpose of the second nut. It is only necessary to have one nut which can be held with a spanner to stop it rotating when the bolt is tightened against the washers.
The size of the bolt is not particularly critical, as long as the bolt is strong enough not to break, but small enough to fit through the hole in the cup. I used to use an ordinary 1/2-inch, 13 TPI hex bolt (also called a "cap screw"), which served me well for quite a while. It finally met its match on friend's Schwinn that had an unusually tight fixed cup; the bolt snapped in two before I could remove the cup.

Now I use a 5/8-inch 18 TPI hex bolt 1 1/2inches long, with a nut, a flat washer, and four lockwashers. The 5/8-inch size is the largest standard size that will fit through the hole in the cup. This bolt and nut both take a 15/16-inch wrench. With my 1/2 inch drive Craftsman six-point socket set, the 15/16-inch socket is also the largest size that will fit into a normal bottom bracket shell.

If you have some other brand of socket, check the fit before you buy the bolt and nut-you might need the next size down (9/16-inch).
If your washers are warping significantly, then they will have less surface area in contact with the cup, and there may not be sufficient friction between them and the cup to stop them just rotating while the cup does not move. If that is happening, then I think you need a bigger bolt, nut and washers (ideally M16 if that size bolt will fit), and an appropriate sized deep socket which will fit inside the BB shell, ideally a socket which took the largest drive breaker bar you can lay your hands on.
hoogerbooger
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Re: seized adjustable cup - cup and cone BB

Post by hoogerbooger »

Thanks all. I will source new bolt and spacer/ lock washers. Will report back next week some time

(Having removed, washers all are distorted and bolt thread mashed).
old fangled
Jdsk
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Re: seized adjustable cup - cup and cone BB

Post by Jdsk »

hoogerbooger wrote: 24 Jun 2021, 10:10am penetrating oil I used was a v old halfords graphite based one ...what's the best ?
I don't know anything better than PlusGas Dismantling Lubricant.

Jonathan
peetee
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Re: seized adjustable cup - cup and cone BB

Post by peetee »

Plus Gas gets my vote too. Leave it for a day if you can.
I would forget washers, they will distort. Use a socket on both sides of the cup and roughen up and clean the end surface to increase purchase. The ends could even have notches filed into them without rendering them useless for their intended purpose in future. Find the largest dia threaded bar that will pass through and try turning clockwise initially (So the nuts are being tightened) to break the bond with the bracket shell.
The older I get the more I’m inclined to act my shoe size, not my age.
slowster
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Re: seized adjustable cup - cup and cone BB

Post by slowster »

peetee wrote: 24 Jun 2021, 6:35pm I would forget washers, they will distort. Use a socket on both sides of the cup and roughen up and clean the end surface to increase purchase. The ends could even have notches filed into them without rendering them useless for their intended purpose in future. Find the largest dia threaded bar that will pass through and try turning clockwise initially (So the nuts are being tightened) to break the bond with the bracket shell.
I would have thought that washers would still be needed if two sockets were used, i.e. in between the nut and the socket at both ends.

I think the key thing is to use as large a thread as possible. That will also ensure that the across flats measurement of the bolt is significantly larger than the diameter of the cup opening, which will prevent the washers warping. Using a small thread and a nut with an across flats measurement the same or smaller than the diameter of the cup opening results in the washers not being properly supported.

Sheldon Brown originally used a 1/2" bolt, but that broke and he replaced it with the largest size that would fit the cup opening (5/8") and for which he had a socket that would fit inside the BB shell. 5/8" is 15.875mm, so if a metric M16 thread would fit, that would mean a bolt hex head and nut with 24mm across flats.

Image
hoogerbooger
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Re: seized adjustable cup - cup and cone BB

Post by hoogerbooger »

Noted. Measuring up: Internal recess for rubber seal is OD 23.5mm, with the ID/hole for the axle at 18.5mm, after the recess there is no more flat section on the inside, it tapers off to the race section.

..so on the inside I think I'd need to look for washers/spacers matching the recess, i.e some sort of heavy duty spacer/collar. On the outside a much thicker washer than I used before ( note a 24mm bolt head or nut will only just span the recess)

Will probably take me a while to find such. Best I've found on fleabay so far for the collar is this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132927076147 ... SwICpaHYMA

But can't work out if this is solid enough ( it could get pricey & not work) Maybe destroying the cup is a cheaper/more reliable to work option......but sounds scarey RE damaging the frame.
old fangled
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531colin
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Re: seized adjustable cup - cup and cone BB

Post by 531colin »

Another couple of things.

That adjustable cup looks like it projects far enough out of the BB shell so that you could grind 2 flats on it with an angle grinder and remove it with the bench vise like you did the fixed cup. Its a good idea to arrange a long bolt and nut to hold the cup in the vise while you swing on it.
I don't think you will be able to file the cup, it should be hard.

Slowsters picture of Sheldon Browns set up shows what you need to achieve with the nut and bolt.
If you live in a town, there will be a "bolt stockist" on an industrial estate somewhere.
If you live in the country, there will be an agricultural hardware type of place somewhere....selling galvanised field gates, and the hardware to fix them, as well as all sorts of impenetrable stuff!
If you want a lot of help in a bike shop for an uneconomic purchase, carrying a couple of packets of chocolate biscuits is a good idea....I'm sure this will translate!
Take your removed fixed cup to your chosen nuts and bolts shop....you need the biggest nut which will fit inside the cup, to substitute for Sheldon's stack of washers. (more bits = more chance of slippage). Then you need the biggest bolt which will pass through without engaging the thread, and a nut to fit. Also a socket to fit the new bolt....take your existing sockets with you.

Got a long-established bike shop near you?
If they have one of these https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/var-bottom ... &gclsrc=ds they will usually get it out!
hoogerbooger
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Re: seized adjustable cup - cup and cone BB

Post by hoogerbooger »

Many thanks Colin. Useful leads I will follow up. May be a while before I report back...( I don't like getting beaten by stuff like this...so I will be back......hopefully reporting success and how)
old fangled
slowster
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Re: seized adjustable cup - cup and cone BB

Post by slowster »

531colin wrote: 25 Jun 2021, 10:01am Take your removed fixed cup to your chosen nuts and bolts shop....you need the biggest nut which will fit inside the cup, to substitute for Sheldon's stack of washers. (more bits = more chance of slippage). Then you need the biggest bolt which will pass through without engaging the thread, and a nut to fit. Also a socket to fit the new bolt....take your existing sockets with you.
Sheldon explained the use of those four washers as follows:
A large socket wrench will not fit into the cup, so you will need some small-diameter washers to space the head of the bolt out so that the socket wrench can reach it. This is what I use the four split lockwashers for. I didn't need lockwashers as such, but the readily available flat washers were too large in outside diameter to fit into the cup.
Something else I would check is the maximum outside diameter of socket that would fit inside the BB shell, including allowing for any irregularities inside the shell. If there is a protuding bolt tip in the shell holding a cable guide under the bottom bracket that can simply be unscrewed, but any other irregularities might not be so simple to deal with.

However, RJ The Bike Guy has a few videos on this subject, and the second one below looks like a significant improvement on the Sheldon Brown method, because it eliminates the need for a deep socket to fit inside the BB and for washers of just the right size.

Demonstration of Sheldon Brown method


Using a length of pipe and long bolt instead of Sheldon's short bolt and washers.
Jamesh
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Re: seized adjustable cup - cup and cone BB

Post by Jamesh »

Bb30 all is forgiven!!

Cheers James
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