Seized hub nuts/cones

[doffcocker]

With a view to rebuilding the whole thing, I have taken stock and appear to have 9 ball bearings that came from the non-cassette side where only 7 appear to have come from the cassette side. It seems the ones I have collected from the cassette side are a lot greasier, grittier, dirtier looking than those on the non-cassette side. I'm assuming that is normal, maybe even to be expected, but in any case is there a way of knowing if I need to get searching for any I may have dropped?

I have used the magnet that comes with a torch which is definitely indicating there are no more to be expected from inside the hub.

[Jdsk]

Don't spend too long on the old balls. You're going to buy some new. And you should fit the number that it needs, not the number that it had.

Jonathan

[doffcocker]

With a view to rebuilding the whole thing, I have taken stock and appear to have 9 ball bearings that came from the non-cassette side where only 7 appear to have come from the cassette side. It seems the ones I have collected from the cassette side are a lot greasier, grittier, dirtier looking than those on the non-cassette side. I'm assuming that is normal, maybe even to be expected, but in any case is there a way of knowing if I need to get searching for any I may have dropped?

I have used the magnet that comes with a torch which is definitely indicating there are no more to be expected from inside the hub.

Ignore this, I just found two dirty ones on the back yard floor.

It now stands at 9-9.

[Jdsk]

Crossed posts. See previous above about number needed.

Jonathan

[slowster]

I suspect that your best option will be to buy a complete new axle unit. Assuming it is a Shimano hub, SJS sell a wide range of Shimano hub spares. If you can identify the model of your hub and SJS sell the axle unit for that model (or one which is compatible, i.e. referred to in SJS's description of the axle as a 'B match' for your model of hub), it will make life much simpler for you to buy that, rather than try to reuse the existing axle and buy individual replacements for the bits that are beyond salvage or now missing.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-whe ... +ascending

[doffcocker]

Crossed posts. See previous above about number needed.

Jonathan

So the number needed is potentially a judgement call?

Assuming after successfully piecing everything back together, there is still some play in the wheel, the next step would be to look at replacement/additional bearings?

[Jdsk]

https://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... adjustment

Jonathan

[slowster]

Before doing anything else, check the condition of the surface of the cups in the hub. If the bearing surfaces are in poor condition, then the hub will probably be beyond repair.

For further explanation see https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... adjustment, specifically Step 4 'Hub Parts and Inspection'.

[doffcocker]

Just an update on this, I have managed to piece the hub back together and I'm basically back to square one where after putting the bike back into one piece, the rear wheel still has the same distinct wobble.

Sorry, I know it might seem I'm not paying attention to the links people have kindly posted for guidance, but I truly am, I just often get lost in a lot of the wording and terminology, so find it more reassuring to talk it through on here.

Even after de-greasing and greasing the bearings from the hub side, they had a distinctly rougher surface to them than those from the other side. Perhaps this is an indication that replacements are needed?

In any case, I have committed myself now to read and re-read all the information you have posted on this thread over the weekend to hopefully come to a conclusion of what needs doing. I am more than happy to fork out for a new hub if it's guaranteed to fix the problem and straightforward enough to install, but I'm not convinced it would be somehow.

Typical that I should have all this trouble when we're now getting the best weather of the year.

[Jdsk]

Even after de-greasing and greasing the bearings from the hub side, they had a distinctly rougher surface to them than those from the other side. Perhaps this is an indication that replacements are needed?

It is.

What was the condition of the tracks where the balls run?

Jonathan

[doffcocker]

time=1626535043 user_id=52715]

What was the condition of the tracks where the balls run?

Jonathan

In my infinite ignorance I didn’t pay much attention to that area, not realising it might have degraded to a standard that might cause significant problems.

One thing that hasn’t helped is the grease I bought from Amazon was closer to water than the stuff used in the video.

[doffcocker]

Bit of a development today, I've found that there is no play at all in the wheel when the cone bolts/nuts are tightened to such an extent that the wheel doesn't spin freely.

Whether there are other factors involved that are causing the play or not, obviously it sounds like the bearings definitely need replacing anyway.

I was surprised to see Halfords have a range of packs priced at £11 that come with an axle, bearings and grease. I'm currently thinking it has to be worth eleven quid, if I were to get the one that is size appropriate for my wheel.

But something else I have discovered that I'm curious about is that even after much greasing throughout the mech on Friday, the quick release lever still feels very stiff. I'm wondering if that too should be replaced.

[alexnharvey]

Do you recall your recent promise to read all the guidance you have previously been referred to? I guess you have not!

Those axle kits are not very good quality, and the cone angle may not be a good match for your hub. However, it probably would not matter if you used them or bought the proper part. If the ball race area in the hub cup is knackered then the hub is pretty much scrap.

[Jupestar]

What hub is it?

When you say QR skewer is stiff what exactly do you mean? Hard to do up? Hard to get through the axle?

[fausto99]

Bit of a development today, I've found that there is no play at all in the wheel when the cone bolts/nuts are tightened to such an extent that the wheel doesn't spin freely.

If you have the time, this is a great way to learn and build up experience. Very slowly back off from solid, in very small steps. Does it ever feel smooth? Does it just become rough and then loose? Can you feel the cup track pits?

+1 on Halford axle kits. They are rubbish. I once used one on my son's bike rear axle. It bent after one bunny hop by one of his mates who used the bike when he wasn't looking