Got a retul fit which frame would you recommend?

[weebeanysbro]

Hi all, got a retul fit done and have put the numbers in a table along with the the geometries of the bike I am going to buy (Trek Domane AL 2) . Would like peoples opinions on what frame size would be best. I am new to road cycling. Thanks!

[Ontherivet77]

A lot would depend on how aggressive you want your position on the bike to be. Also, what is your height and how flexible are you?

[weebeanysbro]

A lot would depend on how aggressive you want your position on the bike to be. Also, what is your height and how flexible are you?

I would say not that aggressive as I'll be mostly using the bike for leisure. I'm 5'11 w 34 inch cycling inseam. Flexibility would be decent but not in the hamstrings.

[Ontherivet77]

I would guess based on the domane geometry, you'd have maybe a 9cm drop from saddle to handlebar and you would be in a pretty racy position on the 56cm. You maybe would want to swap the handlebars for something slimmer also.

[rogerzilla]

58.

[weebeanysbro]

58.

why do you think 58?

[Paulatic]

I had to Google retul
I’m 6ft and ride a 56 Domane. Had it for 10 years. I have an upturned 80mm stem which has the bars level with saddle. Gives me 53 cms from front of saddle to centre if bars. Used this bike for my LEJOG with no ill effect.

[531colin]

Hi all, got a retul fit done and have put the numbers in a table along with the the geometries of the bike I am going to buy (Trek Domane AL 2) . Would like peoples opinions on what frame size would be best. I am new to road cycling. Thanks!

Capture.JPG

What do they say where you got the fit done?

......color=#FF0000]I’m 6ft and ride a 56 Domane. Had it for 10 years. I have an upturned 80mm stem which has the bars level with saddle.[/color] Gives me 53 cms from front of saddle to centre if bars. Used this bike for my LEJOG with no ill effect.

This information is beyond price. (provided they haven't changed the geo. in 10 years....check that!!

"The rules" are that a larger frame gives you the benefit (for comfort) of high handlebars, at the price of a longer reach.
So, somebody 6 foot can get the bars level with the saddle on a 56 by simply flipping an 8cm stem....this is brilliant news.
(I'm 74 and I need the bars a whisker higher than the saddle, but for most people level with the saddle is as high as you need to worry about.
Even with a carbon steerer I would expect 20 or maybe 30mm of spacers under the stem, so that gives you a bit to play with; stem "up" spacers above stem should be higher than stem "down" spacers below stem.
On that basis I would go for a 56; you can always fit a longer stem than the standard 10cm if you decide you want the full "retul" reach.
(Actually its pretty meaningless quoting frame reach without a stem length; maybe I'm being picky, but they must make some assumptions about stem length and bar shape .)

[531colin]

Hi all, got a retul fit done and have put the numbers in a table along with the the geometries of the bike I am going to buy (Trek Domane AL 2) . Would like peoples opinions on what frame size would be best. I am new to road cycling. Thanks!

Capture.JPG

What do they say where you got the fit done?

......I’m 6ft and ride a 56 Domane. Had it for 10 years. I have an upturned 80mm stem which has the bars level with saddle. Gives me 53 cms from front of saddle to centre if bars. Used this bike for my LEJOG with no ill effect.

This information is beyond price. (provided they haven't changed the geo. in 10 years....check that!!

"The rules" are that a larger frame gives you the benefit (for comfort) of high handlebars, at the price of a longer reach.
So, somebody 6 foot can get the bars level with the saddle on a 56 by simply flipping an 8cm stem....this is brilliant news.
(I'm 74 and I need the bars a whisker higher than the saddle, but for most people level with the saddle is as high as you need to worry about.
Even with a carbon steerer I would expect 20 or maybe 30mm of spacers under the stem, so that gives you a bit to play with; stem "up" spacers above stem should be higher than stem "down" spacers below stem.
On that basis I would go for a 56; you can always fit a longer stem than the standard 10cm if you decide you want the full "retul" reach.
(Actually its pretty meaningless quoting frame reach without a stem length; maybe I'm being picky, but they must make some assumptions about stem length and bar shape .)

[Ontherivet77]

I had to Google retul
I’m 6ft and ride a 56 Domane. Had it for 10 years. I have an upturned 80mm stem which has the bars level with saddle. Gives me 53 cms from front of saddle to centre if bars. Used this bike for my LEJOG with no ill effect.

What height is your saddle c-c?

[rogerzilla]

58.

why do you think 58?

Top tube length is the most important.

[Paulatic]

I had to Google retul
I’m 6ft and ride a 56 Domane. Had it for 10 years. I have an upturned 80mm stem which has the bars level with saddle. Gives me 53 cms from front of saddle to centre if bars. Used this bike for my LEJOG with no ill effect.

What height is your saddle c-c?

That’s not a measurement I work with
I always hook my tape measure on the saddle rail just in front of the clamp and measure down to pedal at furthest point.
That figure is 878mm
I would guess you could add 50mm to get a top of saddle measurement.
The reason I do that is
1 I use SMP saddles …where is the top?
2 experience taught me unless you place something on the top of the saddle, to define the top, holding your head and eyes at differing heights gives different readings.
3 I have bikes with 172.5 and 175 cranks it saves any mathematical error.

Colin has a good point, has the geometry changed over the years? I don’t know but doubt it as it’s still marketed as an endurance geometry.

What is significant though is I have approx 75mm of steerer tube. I’ve just looked at a picture of a new al2 Domane and the stem sits on top of head tube with no spacers top or bottom AFAICT.

[Ontherivet77]

I had to Google retul
I’m 6ft and ride a 56 Domane. Had it for 10 years. I have an upturned 80mm stem which has the bars level with saddle. Gives me 53 cms from front of saddle to centre if bars. Used this bike for my LEJOG with no ill effect.

What height is your saddle c-c?

That’s not a measurement I work with
I always hook my tape measure on the saddle rail just in front of the clamp and measure down to pedal at furthest point.
That figure is 878mm
I would guess you could add 50mm to get a top of saddle measurement.
The reason I do that is
1 I use SMP saddles …where is the top?
2 experience taught me unless you place something on the top of the saddle, to define the top, holding your head and eyes at differing heights gives different readings.
3 I have bikes with 172.5 and 175 cranks it saves any mathematical error.

Colin has a good point, has the geometry changed over the years? I don’t know but doubt it as it’s still marketed as an endurance geometry.

What is significant though is I have approx 75mm of steerer tube. I’ve just looked at a picture of a new al2 Domane and the stem sits on top of head tube with no spacers top or bottom AFAICT.

Yes, that's where I'm getting the 9cm drop from. My 56cm bike has a head tube of 15cm & 2.5cm of spacers, the Domane is 17.5 cm for the head tube but no spacers. If I put the OP on my bike he'll be faced with a pretty aggressive drop to the bars, unless he flips the stem like you have etc. British Cycling recommends :

2. For a competitive or racing road bike position, the top of the handlebar should be at least a full fist width below the mid-point of the saddle (most fists are about 8cm)

3. For a performance road position, the top of the handlebar should be about 5-6 cm below the mid-point of the saddle.

4. For a recreational road bike position, the top of the handlebar should be level with the mid-point of the saddle, or maybe a couple of centimetres below.

So on that basis unless the OP is young flexible and happy with a racy position he may be better with the 58cm with narrower bars.

[weebeanysbro]

What height is your saddle c-c?

That’s not a measurement I work with
I always hook my tape measure on the saddle rail just in front of the clamp and measure down to pedal at furthest point.
That figure is 878mm
I would guess you could add 50mm to get a top of saddle measurement.
The reason I do that is
1 I use SMP saddles …where is the top?
2 experience taught me unless you place something on the top of the saddle, to define the top, holding your head and eyes at differing heights gives different readings.
3 I have bikes with 172.5 and 175 cranks it saves any mathematical error.

Colin has a good point, has the geometry changed over the years? I don’t know but doubt it as it’s still marketed as an endurance geometry.

What is significant though is I have approx 75mm of steerer tube. I’ve just looked at a picture of a new al2 Domane and the stem sits on top of head tube with no spacers top or bottom AFAICT.

Yes, that's where I'm getting the 9cm drop from. My 56cm bike has a head tube of 15cm & 2.5cm of spacers, the Domane is 17.5 cm for the head tube but no spacers. If I put the OP on my bike he'll be faced with a pretty aggressive drop to the bars, unless he flips the stem like you have etc. British Cycling recommends :

2. For a competitive or racing road bike position, the top of the handlebar should be at least a full fist width below the mid-point of the saddle (most fists are about 8cm)

3. For a performance road position, the top of the handlebar should be about 5-6 cm below the mid-point of the saddle.

4. For a recreational road bike position, the top of the handlebar should be level with the mid-point of the saddle, or maybe a couple of centimetres below.

So on that basis unless the OP is young flexible and happy with a racy position he may be better with the 58cm with narrower bars.

I'm 33 and would reckon I am fairly flexible. If I found the 56 too racy I could always just flip the stem or add spacers right?

[Ontherivet77]

That’s not a measurement I work with
I always hook my tape measure on the saddle rail just in front of the clamp and measure down to pedal at furthest point.
That figure is 878mm
I would guess you could add 50mm to get a top of saddle measurement.
The reason I do that is
1 I use SMP saddles …where is the top?
2 experience taught me unless you place something on the top of the saddle, to define the top, holding your head and eyes at differing heights gives different readings.
3 I have bikes with 172.5 and 175 cranks it saves any mathematical error.

Colin has a good point, has the geometry changed over the years? I don’t know but doubt it as it’s still marketed as an endurance geometry.

What is significant though is I have approx 75mm of steerer tube. I’ve just looked at a picture of a new al2 Domane and the stem sits on top of head tube with no spacers top or bottom AFAICT.

Yes, that's where I'm getting the 9cm drop from. My 56cm bike has a head tube of 15cm & 2.5cm of spacers, the Domane is 17.5 cm for the head tube but no spacers. If I put the OP on my bike he'll be faced with a pretty aggressive drop to the bars, unless he flips the stem like you have etc. British Cycling recommends :

2. For a competitive or racing road bike position, the top of the handlebar should be at least a full fist width below the mid-point of the saddle (most fists are about 8cm)

3. For a performance road position, the top of the handlebar should be about 5-6 cm below the mid-point of the saddle.

4. For a recreational road bike position, the top of the handlebar should be level with the mid-point of the saddle, or maybe a couple of centimetres below.

So on that basis unless the OP is young flexible and happy with a racy position he may be better with the 58cm with narrower bars.

I'm 33 and would reckon I am fairly flexible. If I found the 56 too racy I could always just flip the stem or add spacers right?

Yep, you could flip the stem or get a more steeply angled stem to push the bars up if necessary. Regards, spacers the pictures of the Domane look like it is slammed and there maybe no room for adding spacers to the steerer tube. Better still do some off bike yoga and you will have no trouble reaching the bars To be fair I know a few riders who ride in aerodynamic positions with little or no bother.