Help with replacing crankset and BB

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531colin
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Re: Help with replacing crankset and BB

Post by 531colin »

45mm from the frame centre to the centre of the gap between the 2 chainrings is a "road" chainline.
Your GRX F. mech. apparently expects the chainwheels to be 2.5mm further away from the frame. ie. 47.5mm chainline.
2.5mm isn't very much....If it was me, I would be re-measuring!
However......
MountainSurfer wrote: 24 Jul 2021, 12:14am I have a new gravel bike with Shimano GRX 810 front and rear mech (the gravel specific components that are equivalent to Ultegra). However the only non-GRX componentry the bike came with is the Praxis Alba 2x crankset and Praxis M24 BB86, press fit bottom bracket.

It is impossible to get rid of chain rub from the FD in multiple chain positions, and I have to engage the high trim (when in big ring) when the RD is in the 5th sprocket from bottom in the cassette because of chainrub on the inside of the FD, rather than when it is in the 9/10/11th sprockets as should be usual ie. much earlier than normal. I have used multiple sources to adjust......
When you say the inside do you mean its rubbing on the inside of the F. mech. cage or on the outside?
(or on the inside of the outside, if you get my drift). In other words, is your mech. too far in towards the frame or too far out away from the frame?)
AND another question....if the mech. doesn't go far enough out away from the frame, will it go further if you push it with your finger?
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531colin
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Re: Help with replacing crankset and BB

Post by 531colin »

Grumpy old man mode.....
How complex can we make this?
Its an extremely straightforward situation......there are 2 chainwheels, for Pete's sake.......
If the chain isn't on one of them, then its forced to be on the other one!
Do we really need "indexing" to help us choose between 2 chainwheels?
(I have 3 chainwheels on all my bikes except the Rohloff one, and I don't have indexed front shift on any.)
Of course, as soon as you "need" indexing, then you are forced to "need" trim functions.
I have friction shift over 3 chainwheels....I just push the lever to where I think it needs to be.
If it needs "trimming" I just nudge the lever over a bit.
Simples!
MountainSurfer
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Joined: 9 May 2021, 8:16pm

Re: Help with replacing crankset and BB

Post by MountainSurfer »

531colin wrote: 26 Jul 2021, 7:51pm 45mm from the frame centre to the centre of the gap between the 2 chainrings is a "road" chainline.
Your GRX F. mech. apparently expects the chainwheels to be 2.5mm further away from the frame. ie. 47.5mm chainline.
2.5mm isn't very much....If it was me, I would be re-measuring!
This is exactly what my theory had suggested to me is the crux of the problem ie. the the gravel FD is 2.5mm further out from the frame than a road FD would be, BUT, the chainset is a road one and therefore, relative to the FD, 2.5mm closer to the frame than it should be.
531colin wrote: 26 Jul 2021, 7:51pm When you say the inside do you mean its rubbing on the inside of the F. mech. cage or on the outside?
(or on the inside of the outside, if you get my drift). In other words, is your mech. too far in towards the frame or too far out away from the frame?)
AND another question....if the mech. doesn't go far enough out away from the frame, will it go further if you push it with your finger?
I find FD nomenclature a little confusing when discussing with people. I don't know if there is an "approved" way of talking about it so I'll describe it quite literally.

Let's say we are looking at the FD from BEHIND. ie. it has a right hand side that lies to the right of the chain, and a left hand side that lies to the left of the chain.

The FD shifts from big to little and vice versa absolutely perfectly and immediately. The limit settings are perfect (0.5mm between inside of right side and outside/right of chain when in the big ring as per Shimano manual).

When in big ring but shifting to 4th smallest cog in cassette, the chain rubs against the inside ie. against the left side of the FD, or to put it your way, the outside of the inside. I then have to engage high trim at this stage to move the FD more to the left/inside so there's a gap between chain and the left side/outside of the inside, rather than the usual case where you have to engage trim only when in the bigger cogs eg. 9/10/11th.

When I then adjust to make sure that the FD moves more to the left (towards the frame) so that the chainrub doesn't occur until the bigger cogs in the back, then of course when in big-small combo there is lots of chain rub on the right of the FD/inside of the outside. Other adjustments lead to chain rub in the little ring. I've followed all instructions, have tried microadjustments in multiple combinations, and two bike mechanics have tried the same with no luck.

In Youtube reviews of this bike, the reviewer mentioned he had chain rub out of the box too, as have multiple commenters. Tried to message a few of them and from the very few that replied, they've never managed to get rid of it as well, which to me suggests it truly is a compatibility problem and the 2.5mm does make a difference. Only problem is you have to actually buy the stuff and replace it before you can truly find out if this is true.

I called the shop I bought this from today. They are in Inverness, I'm in Manchester. Explained the problem and he said he couldn't imagine Giant would make a mistake because they are Shimano's biggest client apparently. I explained that Shimano apparently themselves say that only the GRX chainset and FD should be used in combination because of the 2.5mm difference between gravel and road, and that this problem is unfixable. He's forwarded the message to Giant to see what they say, but even if they are in the wrong, which I suspect they are, they do this with literally thousands of bikes and so are not going to say yeah, we'll pay for you to replace your chainrings, it will likely be some fob off reply which doesn't address the problem.
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Redvee
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Re: Help with replacing crankset and BB

Post by Redvee »

Reading through this thread the OP is having the same issue I had with my R7000 front mech, despite numerous adjustments it was never running perfectly and discussing the issue with the guy in the LBS he was in the same position, he said his front mech was spot on at one end of the travel but not the other. I ditched the R7000 front mech and have been running an older 5800 front mech with no rubbing ever since.
Valbrona
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Re: Help with replacing crankset and BB

Post by Valbrona »

MountainSurfer wrote: 24 Jul 2021, 12:14am
A couple of Youtube reviews of the GRX groupset (including GCN) mentioned that because the FD is 2.5mm further outboard from the frame (to help with tyre clearances on gravel bikes), the GRX crankset is built to accommodate this difference to road mechs. They specifically stated that if you get the crankset, you need the GRX FD, not a non-GRX one. I can only assume that the opposite also applies, and this mismatch is the reason chainrub is incessant in multiple positions despite all adjusting (ie. Praxis crankset is just a regular crankset that doesn't accommodate for this 2.5mm outboard difference as compared with road FDs, so chain is constantly 2.5mm closer to the frame/inside of FD than it should be).
Spot-on analysis ... unless you find Alba crankset to really be 'gravel bike chainline' after measuring Seems strange they would build with Alba crankset ... does internet give indication of its chainline?

Incidentally, SRAM 'Wide Axle' cranksets are - as the name implies - 2.5mm further outboard to better cope with gravel bike/disc brake geometry.

OR ... Is the Praxis crankset of such a design that it allows re-spacing with like Wheels Mfg 2.5mm spacers, only the people who built the bike were not clever enough to build it as such in the first place?
I should coco.
MountainSurfer
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Joined: 9 May 2021, 8:16pm

Re: Help with replacing crankset and BB

Post by MountainSurfer »

Valbrona wrote: 27 Jul 2021, 4:42am
MountainSurfer wrote: 24 Jul 2021, 12:14am
A couple of Youtube reviews of the GRX groupset (including GCN) mentioned that because the FD is 2.5mm further outboard from the frame (to help with tyre clearances on gravel bikes), the GRX crankset is built to accommodate this difference to road mechs. They specifically stated that if you get the crankset, you need the GRX FD, not a non-GRX one. I can only assume that the opposite also applies, and this mismatch is the reason chainrub is incessant in multiple positions despite all adjusting (ie. Praxis crankset is just a regular crankset that doesn't accommodate for this 2.5mm outboard difference as compared with road FDs, so chain is constantly 2.5mm closer to the frame/inside of FD than it should be).
Spot-on analysis ... unless you find Alba crankset to really be 'gravel bike chainline' after measuring Seems strange they would build with Alba crankset ... does internet give indication of its chainline?

Incidentally, SRAM 'Wide Axle' cranksets are - as the name implies - 2.5mm further outboard to better cope with gravel bike/disc brake geometry.

OR ... Is the Praxis crankset of such a design that it allows re-spacing with like Wheels Mfg 2.5mm spacers, only the people who built the bike were not clever enough to build it as such in the first place?
Seems like my measuring wasn't so bad after all!

Just noticed on the Praxis website that this crank has a chainline of 44.5mm, so my 45mm was pretty good! 8)

GRX has a chainline of 46.9mm and Shimano specifically state "To better accommodate wider tires for gravel riding we’ve pushed the chainline out 2.5mm. This means that the GRX double cranks and GRX front derailleur must be paired together" as one of numerous mentions about chainline issues in this document, which I've forwarded to the shop to try to get Giant to pay for the replacement

https://bike.shimano.com/content/dam/pr ... NSUMER.pdf
mumbojumbo
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Re: Help with replacing crankset and BB

Post by mumbojumbo »

keyboardmonkey wrote: 24 Jul 2021, 8:03am Unless you bought it from a private seller I would be tempted to return the bike. Not fit for purpose and all that stuff.
Like caveat emptor?.Once you buy privately you are liable-hence private deals are hazardous and not for the meek and mild !
MountainSurfer
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Joined: 9 May 2021, 8:16pm

Re: Help with replacing crankset and BB

Post by MountainSurfer »

Some positive news.

The shop I bought this from took the evidence re. compatibility/chainlines etc to Giant, who whilst stating that they put these parts together on their many bikes because Shimano have "OK"ed them as working [albeit not entirely compatible as per my evidence], as a "gesture of good will" they will authorise a partial refund of £170 which is 'trade price' for the new crankset and BB.

Assuming I've chosen the BB correctly, the price I would pay for a GRX810 2x crankset and new BB is just under £200. Plus the tools to remove and replace the BB/cranks. So £30+tool cost to upgrade my bike to an Ultegra level chainset is not bad under the circumstances. Plus I'm reasonably confident of selling on a lightly used (100km) 2x11 crankset for that much on ebay.

That is way more than I would have expected to have been offered. I was expecting them to fob me off completely saying, well it works, it just works with chainrub.

Thanks to all for the very helpful advice as always. I will post a final outcome once the replacement is done, hopefully with the news that the chainrub has gone! :lol:
scottg
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Re: Help with replacing crankset and BB

Post by scottg »

531colin wrote: 26 Jul 2021, 7:57pm Grumpy old man mode.....
How complex can we make this?
If you eliminate the front derailer, it becomes "a moments work" to shift the chain by
hand or use a wire hook stored in the end of the handlebar. Per Vernon Blake, shown here
on his gravel bike, CTC pic 1930. (note the wire along the seat tube, there to prevent chain drop)
Harrummphhh
5657476497_4600666b63_b.jpg
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Deutsche Luftschiffahrts-AG
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Valbrona
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Re: Help with replacing crankset and BB

Post by Valbrona »

Translate from Mandarin or whatever they use in Taiwan: "Coronavirus has caused a worldwide shortage of bike parts ... so we use Praxis cranks in place of the Shimano ones that we can't source at the moment".
I should coco.
MountainSurfer
Posts: 56
Joined: 9 May 2021, 8:16pm

Re: Help with replacing crankset and BB

Post by MountainSurfer »

Unfortunately I think they were using Praxis cranks on most of their gravel bikes pre-pandemic. I bought the Revolt Advanced 2 for £2400, but only the Advanced 0 (top of the line Advanced bike) for £3500 has full GRX. Even the Advanced Pro bike (high mod carbon and all carbon finishing kit) for £4899 inexplicably has Praxis cranks!!
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531colin
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Re: Help with replacing crankset and BB

Post by 531colin »

Just a final thought on this........
I use top gear (big chainring, smallest cog) so rarely that I can tolerate a bit of chain rub,
If you set yours up so that you get a bit of chain rub in top gear (screw in the stop for the big chainring, slacken the cable)
.... can you then get rid of chain rub when on the big ring and the bigger cogs?
(and again on semantics....those big cogs at the back are gears 1,2,3,4.....first gear is the lowest gear, just like a car.)
MountainSurfer
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Re: Help with replacing crankset and BB

Post by MountainSurfer »

So outcome -

As I mentioned Giant have agreed to pay the majority of the cost of the replacement (£170 out of £200) for GRX FC-RX810 48/31 crankset and BB92 press fit bottom bracket. Payment pending.

I received those yesterday. Replaced both, and set up the RD to the new crankset today.

Not hugely better! :lol: Trim now needs doing one or two cogs further up, which is better, but I was expecting more. If I adjust trim any more, then I get chainrub in the largest gear (big/little). Just noticed Colin's post above, and I think I've arrived at the same conclusion - I'm going to be use top gear so little that before I take my bike off the stand in a few minutes, I'm going to optimise the high limit so that there's absolutely no chain rub in big ring/2 cogs from smallest, and in high trim, there's no chain rub in big ring/2-3 cogs from biggest. That way, as you said, you have no chain rub in the gears you actually use more often.

Now my perfectionism is also put to rest as I no longer have any non-GRX components in the groupset. I have a mostly Ultegra level groupset with 105 level levers, which is lovely.

Couple that with the new Hunt wheels and GravelKing SK 35mm tyres I'm expecting next week, and this bike is going to be the perfect road/off road bike for me for hopefully at least a decade.
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