Hybrid bicycle - Hub size for wheel purchase

[arupaka]

Hi everyone,

First post in this forum

I've been wanting to replace my rear wheel for a while since I get broken spokes very often. That time has now come.
But I'm completely lost regarding what wheel to buy. First of all, I ride a hybrid bike (Traffic GT 3.0 2017) with 700c/28"/29er, so I really don't know if I should by road wheels or MTB wheels. I typically use 35c or 40c, and will probably keep it like that.

Second, I can't figure out what hub size I should look at. After measuring a lot of stuff here's what I got:

Rim width (external) - 25mm (internal) - 21mm
Frame dropout width (internal) - 130mm
Rear wheel axle length (total) - 145mm (O.L.D.) 135mm??? Or at least it seemed like. I couldn't directly measure it because I don't have a lockring tool (yet) and could not extract the complete hub, so had to remove one nut to take the axle out.
Axle diameter is 9,8mm.

Is it even possible to have a dropout length of 130mm and axle length of 135mm (O.L.D. )??

Either way, what kind of wheel should I get?

Would appreciate any input and apologies for the confusing post.

[alexnharvey]

It is possible that a wider, 135mm old wheel is squeezed into narrower 130mm wide dropouts but it should then be quite obvious that you have to spread the dropouts to get it in. No issue if the frame is steel. Less ideal if it is aluminium. The axle is slightly longer than the OLD, 5mm per side sounds right, i think it is actually 5.5mm. Similarly with 130mm old, axle length is about 141mm. You can also change axle spacers to adjust the over locknut distance.

Axle will be M10, nominally 10mm or thereabouts.

Also worth considering whether replacing some of all the spokes is another option. Lots of discussion of that here in previous threads.

[slowster]

Disc brake or rim brake? If rim brake, try to measure the thickness of the braking surface (you need a caliper or similar): if the braking surface is less than 1mm, it will probably not be worth re-using the rim.

You can buy a cheap 135mm rear wheel for rim brakes from Decathlon for £45, but that amount might be better put towards paying a good wheelbuilder to rebuild your existing wheel.

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/rear-whee ... R-p-314993

[arupaka]

Disc brake or rim brake? If rim brake, try to measure the thickness of the braking surface (you need a caliper or similar): if the braking surface is less than 1mm, it will probably not be worth re-using the rim.

You can buy a cheap 135mm rear wheel for rim brakes from Decathlon for £45, but that amount might be better put towards paying a good wheelbuilder to rebuild your existing wheel.

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/rear-whee ... R-p-314993

Disc brake. It really seems the best way out is to get a new wheel since the one I currently have (original) is single wall, feels cheap and has probably taken a big beating when I shipped it from Japan to Europe by boat. For every 50km ride -> 1 broken spoke. Doesn't feel to be worthy of rescuing.

This would be the disc equivalent of the link you put? https://www.decathlon.pt/p/roda-traseir ... R-p-177379

It sounds like a good enough upgrade, but while I'm at it, would probably prefer something more trustworthy.

It is possible that a wider, 135mm old wheel is squeezed into narrower 130mm wide dropouts but it should then be quite obvious that you have to spread the dropouts to get it in. No issue if the frame is steel. Less ideal if it is aluminium. The axle is slightly longer than the OLD, 5mm per side sounds right, i think it is actually 5.5mm. Similarly with 130mm old, axle length is about 141mm. You can also change axle spacers to adjust the over locknut distance.

Axle will be M10, nominally 10mm or thereabouts.

Also worth considering whether replacing some of all the spokes is another option. Lots of discussion of that here in previous threads.

That's the odd thing, when I place the wheel it pops right in with no effort. But on the other hand, it makes more sense to be 135mm OLD.
About the axle I'm still a bit confused because it measures 9,3mm on the center and 9,8mm on top of the threaded part.
I'm looking on Bikeinn and I see a lot of 9x135mm, no 10x135mm and very few 10x130mm. Just lost if a 9x135mm will do the job or not?

As written before, probably not worth to replace all the spokes.

[slowster]

Disc brake. It really seems the best way out is to get a new wheel since the one I currently have (original) is single wall, feels cheap and has probably taken a big beating when I shipped it from Japan to Europe by boat. For every 50km ride -> 1 broken spoke. Doesn't feel to be worthy of rescuing.

This would be the disc equivalent of the link you put? https://www.decathlon.pt/p/roda-traseir ... R-p-177379

It sounds like a good enough upgrade, but while I'm at it, would probably prefer something more trustworthy.

I cannot read Portuguese, and that model wheel does not appear to be listed on Decathlon's UK website, so I would not comment.

They are machine made wheels. If you want 'something more trustworthy', a handbuilt wheel by a good wheelbuilder would be my suggestion using a good quality basic Shimano hub like in the examples below.

https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m10b0s176p1 ... ik-XT-disc

https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m10b0s176p1 ... ce-of-rims

[alexnharvey]

I looked on bikeinn, there are various rear axles described as being 10mm and 12mm and front axles described as 9mm. I think the 12 is a mistake on their part and they are in fact 10mm. The narrower centre section you have measured is normal and is due to the thread being rolled rather than cut. If the threads are 9.8mm you can be fairly confident it is an M10 rear axle.

It sounds like it is probably a 135 OLD wheel.

Spokes break because of poor stress relief leading to rapid metal fatigue and cracking. If you stress relieve the wheel yourself now you may prevent further cracking andou may still get good use of it, or at least be able to keep it as a spare.

[mcshroom]

Looking up the spec of that bike, and considering it's a disc brake, I think you'll find the dropouts are for 135mm OLD hubs.

Basically, if you want to replace it, then look for a disc braked Quick-Release rear wheel. I think the 9mm/10mm thing is a bit of a red herring.

[arupaka]

I looked on bikeinn, there are various rear axles described as being 10mm and 12mm and front axles described as 9mm. I think the 12 is a mistake on their part and they are in fact 10mm. The narrower centre section you have measured is normal and is due to the thread being rolled rather than cut. If the threads are 9.8mm you can be fairly confident it is an M10 rear axle.

It sounds like it is probably a 135 OLD wheel.

Spokes break because of poor stress relief leading to rapid metal fatigue and cracking. If you stress relieve the wheel yourself now you may prevent further cracking andou may still get good use of it, or at least be able to keep it as a spare.

Thanks! I'll look for 10mm then. As for bikeinn, there aren't that many tube 700c rear 10mm for disc brakes. I'll check with them about the 12mm, Bikeinn is a bit fuzzy sometimes. Might also look in other shops.

Makes sense, I had the wheel fixed by professionals twice already, in both occasions they appeared to return in mint condition, but spokes kept breaking. Before that I had taken it to Decathlon and they refused to fix claiming it was a hopeless case.
Feels a bit like a dead end, but will probably keep it as a spare.

Looking up the spec of that bike, and considering it's a disc brake, I think you'll find the dropouts are for 135mm OLD hubs.

Basically, if you want to replace it, then look for a disc braked Quick-Release rear wheel. I think the 9mm/10mm thing is a bit of a red herring.

Yeah, so with a larger gauge I understand that it won't fit the dropouts, but 9mm and 10mm are basically the same? can't imagine what could go wrong, but then again I have 0 experience with this stuff Honestly tempted to go for 9mm just because the range of options is much wider.

Still a bit clueless regarding MTB vs road wheel. Any tips?

Thanks everyone for the help.

[alexnharvey]

Looking up the spec of that bike, and considering it's a disc brake, I think you'll find the dropouts are for 135mm OLD hubs.

Basically, if you want to replace it, then look for a disc braked Quick-Release rear wheel. I think the 9mm/10mm thing is a bit of a red herring.

Quoted for emphasis because this is going round in circles a bit. If you are buying a wheel you need to make sure it is a quick release disc brake "mtb" rear wheel (not a "thru-axle").

A "road" wheel would typically be 130mm OLD and the MTB wheels you need to look for will be 135mm OLD.

[mattsccm]

135mm locknut (OLD)
Quick release.
Disc mounts to match your current (either 6 bolt or centre lock) one to use the old disc.
Match the rim width. Look for number 622 x 20 what ever yours is internall. Look at the stickers or engraving on the rim.
Forget anything else. Ignore the axle size. The above decides that.

Do your own research regarding quality and pay as much as you need.

[arupaka]

135mm locknut (OLD)
Quick release.
Disc mounts to match your current (either 6 bolt or centre lock) one to use the old disc.
Match the rim width. Look for number 622 x 20 what ever yours is internall. Look at the stickers or engraving on the rim.
Forget anything else. Ignore the axle size. The above decides that.

Do your own research regarding quality and pay as much as you need.

Great post! You're right, the sticker on my wheel says ETRTO 622x20. So getting a 622x19 is out of question? Given I ride 40c max.
TIA

[mcshroom]

622x19 would be fine.

This is a (rather conservative) chart for tyre widths and rim widths. It says that 19mm internal rims can take up to 44mm tyres.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width

The rim width bit can change a few mm. 622 is the diameter of the wheel though, and you need to stick to that.

[arupaka]

Once again, thank you everyone for your help. Off to some shopping now

Cheers!