Help! My bike has a click

[Graham O]

I need help before I throw a nice bike in the ditch and apply petrol and a match. I have a Kinesis Crosslight about 5 years old, never been dropped, knocked over etc and just light use, but about a year ago it developed an annoying click and/or double click on pedalling, so it has had even less usage in the last year. However I resolved to do something about it and change the configuration to suit my current riding. It has had new chainset, new sprockets, new chain, new front mech, new Hollowtech bottom bracket and yet it still clicks when the right hand crank is under load at about the 3 o'clock position.
Not all noises come from the bottom bracket, so I have adjusted and greased the saddle - click is still present whether sitting on the saddle or standing. The handlebars have been rotated up and down, shifted left and right, gripped at the hoods, the tops and right next to the stem and the click continues.
The biggest problem is that it has never been consistent, on a flat road with constant effort, it will click for 10 pedal revolutions and then go quiet for 20 or more, but always it comes back. Pedalling one legged is silent as is just rotating the pedals without effort applied. The cranks rotate freely and without binding anywhere.
I've watched Youtube "Does your bike tick?" videos, but I am just really at the end of my patience with the thing.
I fitted the new chainset yesterday (asked on here about preload on the plastic insert) and just been out on it. The click is different in sound to before the changes as it is louder although it seems to need more pressure on the pedal to appear.
About the only thing I haven't checked is whether the bottom bracket shell was correctly faced.

If anyone has any ideas or suggestions, they really would be much appreciated.

[al_yrpal]

Bet its a pedal. Tighten any screws on the pedal and examine any joints on the pedal for micro movement.

Also

[Graham O]

Bet its a pedal. Tighten any screws on the pedal and examine any joints on the pedal for micro movement.

Also

Thanks for reminding me. I tried different pedals, no effect. Oh, and I also have new shoes so it's not the cleats in the shoes creaking.

[slowster]

I would be inclined to try a square taper cartridge bottom bracket and chainset, on the basis that if the click then disappeared it would confirm that the problem was with the Hollowtech II set up, e.g. its need for the shell to be faced as you suggest. Any square taper BB and chainset that you might already have - or can get hold of - should do for such a test, i.e. regardless of the chainring size or whether its a single, double or triple, and regardless of the axle length and chainline.

[Graham O]

I would be inclined to try a square taper cartridge bottom bracket and chainset, on the basis that if the click then disappeared it would confirm that the problem was with the Hollowtech II set up, e.g. its need for the shell to be faced as you suggest. Any square taper BB and chainset that you might already have - or can get hold of - should do for such a test, i.e. regardless of the chainring size or whether its a single, double or triple, and regardless of the axle length and chainline.

That thought did cross my mind and is something I think I can put together, but having spent 200 euros on parts, it's a bit disappointing to put them on ebay for much less. And unfortunately, with Spa cycles not shipping to Europe, (they have the ideal chainset) getting a permanent solution may be a problem. But where there is a will, there is a way.

[Jdsk]

You've added that you've had a good look at the pedals.

Sorry.. but have you looked for a cable being flicked, or a strap?

Refitting the BB etc made a difference... how about doing that all over again?

And unfortunately, with Spa cycles not shipping to Europe, (they have the ideal chainset)...

What would that be, and where are you, please?

Jonathan

[Graham O]

You've added that you've had a good look at the pedals.

Sorry.. but have you looked for a cable being caught, or a strap?

Refitting the BB etc made a difference... how about doing that all over again?

And unfortunately, with Spa cycles not shipping to Europe, (they have the ideal chainset)...

What would that be, and where are you, please?

Jonathan

Nothing being physically trapped as the wheel goes round. Agree that perhaps refitting the BB certainly needs trying.

I'm in Portugal and the Spa chainset is a Super Compact 46/30 or a 44/28.
Possibly, we'll be in the UK before Christmas and since hopefully not flying, could load the car with goodies.

[slowster]

I would be inclined to try a square taper cartridge bottom bracket and chainset, on the basis that if the click then disappeared it would confirm that the problem was with the Hollowtech II set up, e.g. its need for the shell to be faced as you suggest. Any square taper BB and chainset that you might already have - or can get hold of - should do for such a test, i.e. regardless of the chainring size or whether its a single, double or triple, and regardless of the axle length and chainline.

That thought did cross my mind and is something I think I can put together, but having spent 200 euros on parts, it's a bit disappointing to put them on ebay for much less. And unfortunately, with Spa cycles not shipping to Europe, (they have the ideal chainset) getting a permanent solution may be a problem. But where there is a will, there is a way.

I am not suggesting you discard the Hollowtech II chainset and BB, only that you use (any old) square taper as a 'diagnostic tool' to aid you in a process of elimination to determine the cause. If the click disappears that would suggest that the next step would be to get the shell faced. I think the only other possible cause would be if the threads were out of alignment, but I don't know if there is a convenient check for that, or whether it might be best simply to ask your local bike shop to face the BB and also re-tap the threads at the same time just to make sure.

[kylecycler]

At least Graham O has the skills and tools to take his chainset off and remove his BB, so it would then just be a case of taking the bike to the LBS and asking them to tap and face the BB shell - labour would be a lot less than if they'd to do all the rest themselves.

[Graham O]

This has gone from frustrating to something I have to track down! I managed to fit a square taper BB and chainset and
.
.
(wait for it)
.
.
.
the click is still there! If anything, as I reported earlier, it is louder and sounds more like a creak than a sharp click sound.

I've had a good look at the frame and can't see any signs of a broken weld, so there's no reason to suspect a frame problem. The only thing I've not adjusted is the headset, but there's no play in that and the sound does seem to be coming from the bottom bracket area. (although it could just be where the sound emanates from).

I think the next option is to get it to the local bike shop and get them to check on the BB facing. Beyond that, I am really in the dark about what could be causing it.

Thank you to everyone for your help and suggestions. I will post any updates on here.


(My other bike is a Surly Cross Check which suits me perfectly. When I bought the Crosslight, I was very tempted to just buy another Cross Check frame but keep it as a lighterweight faster bike, rather than commuter/tourer/shopper. Perhaps I'll just get a Surly Straggler frame and move components over!)

[cyclop]

Surely far too simple an explanation:........is your quick release fastened up properly(rear wheel of course)?

[kylecycler]

Last time this happened to me, the (square taper) BB had somehow worked slightly loose, or maybe just dried up. All I needed to do was tighten it, but that's obviously not the answer in your case, although it might be the same effect if the faces are misaligned.

One thing you could try before taking it to be faced is winding plumber's Teflon tape around the threads of the BB before you fit it (you need to wind it anti-clockwise on the non-drive side and clockwise on the drive side because of the thread direction, I think - can't remember, actually, but go figure).

I did it once but IIRC it was just precautionary because I'd read about it. The BB didn't creak but I don't think it did before! Worth a try, though. You'll get it locally I'm sure but here it is on ebay - it costs next to nothing:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/10043617196?iid=154090152145

It might only make a difference if there's some kind of imprecision in the threads but I've heard of it curing creaks. Also greasing the faces of the shell, but I'm sure you're doing that.

Disclaimer: assuming it's the BB but it still might not be!

[Graham O]

Surely far too simple an explanation:........is your quick release fastened up properly(rear wheel of course)?

The same thought occurred to me about 10 minutes ago and I've just been outside for a test. Fitted a different rear wheel and no clicking, put the original wheel back in and after 2 or 3 clicks, it was silent even under full load. Now I've been putting wheels in and out for years without problems, so that would suggest that I know what I'm doing, but even so, it does look like the problem could be there. I will investigate more fully tomorrow. I think all my quick releases have been shimano and these are some other brand. Perhaps they need more tension that I've been giving them?

[Jamesh]

I'm guessing it only happens on the road?

If it happens on the workstand post a video?

Perhaps get a helper to create drag with the rear brake?

Cheers James

[kylecycler]

Surely far too simple an explanation:........is your quick release fastened up properly(rear wheel of course)?

Or maybe even the front wheel! Sorry if it's bad form to post a link to another forum but whatever it takes! - I've been searching around and just found this - guy tried everything (including Teflon tape) - you need to read the whole thing - then eventually...

Ok thread drifting back to its start.... and cha ching... we have an answer!!!

After disassembling the head set two times, the bottom bracket two times and lubing up the seat post a few times I finally got to the bottom of the annoying squeak.

I removed the front wheel, applied a little Phil Woods water proof grease on both sides of each fork drop out, put the wheel back into the fork and TA DA!! Cha ching! Now I can sprint and climb hills in peace! No more creak!!! Woo hoo! Not only that but I have given the bike a good 500 mile overhaul in the process.

https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mech ... -tape.html

On my Carrera Subway, btw, occasionally it's when the rear dropouts dry out after I've washed the bike (even if I haven't taken the wheel off) - a CLACK!!! You'd swear blind if you heard it that the frame was cracked, which is what I thought the first time it happened - I even turned back - but no - all I did was take the rear wheel off, lubed the inner faces of the dropouts and... *silence*

I could hear it coming from the rear wheel when I got off and pressed down on the saddle, although when I was riding it only happened when pedalling and I couldn't tell where it was coming from then - it was everywhere, and unbelievably loud!). Happened again a year or so later, cured it the same way.

Edit: Wrote this before I saw Graham O's last post - could be the same thing, then?

Bet my creak was A LOT louder than yours, though!