Norman wrote: ↑18 Nov 2021, 11:10am
Presuming this is an Audax or similar,
100 miles in 8 hours isn't that similar to an Audax, you'd get at least another two and a half hours if it was
OTOH you're right it needn't be a race, 100 in 8 is an old CTC event that used to be a part of most DA's calendars and is still run by some local groups. It is still a challenge, and being the CTC there's a compulsory half hour cafe stop, so is effectively 7.5 hours maximum riding time.
I’ve read through most of the thread, but quickly rather than in depth so apologies if applicable.
The one thing that doesn’t seem to have been mentioned is thoroughly servicing the bike. Perhaps that’s because it’s obvious to some folk but, IMHO, it’s not really obvious to all folk. Tight bearings, brakes that rub, wheels that don’t run true and oil-less chains take additional effort to drive along.
I did watch the video about tyres and tyre pressures, IMHO it’s really good and usefully challenges misperceptions. It’s long but it’s worth a second viewing too.
Note to self: don’t fuss about getting narrow tyres, don’t over inflate tyres (deflate a little to get a smooth ride ‘cause a smooth ride is more energy efficient and more comfortable too), don’t ride on noisy tyres (noise is lost energy), do ride on flexible tyres that roll easy (energy not lost in the tyre wall).
Has reliably been mentioned much? A puncture or other mechanical will make your bike much slower so plan for those events and how to avoid them.
Has comfort and fit been mentioned much? Don’t think about the bike in isolation but rather of the bike and rider becoming as one unit. As such how the parts of that unit fit and work together becomes important.
Don’t fret, it’s OK to: ride a simple old bike; ride slowly, walk, rest and admire the view; ride off-road; ride in your raincoat; ride by yourself; ride in the dark; and ride one hundred yards or one hundred miles. Your bike and your choices to suit you.
The best aid I've had to doing longer timed rides (e.g. club reliability) is to
1) know my comfortable average speed (cruising speed, as above) for longer rides
2) figure out what time I need to leave each stop & make sure that I leave then (or a bit earlier)
I've never had any problem getting in within the allotted time that way. I did once skip a lunch stop because there was a long queue, and I was a bit behind. I ate my emergency rations & took a brief unplanned stop later, where I didn't have to queue.
“In some ways, it is easier to be a dissident, for then one is without responsibility.” ― Nelson Mandela, Long Walk to Freedom
Carlton green wrote: ↑19 Nov 2021, 8:01am
I did watch the video about tyres and tyre pressures, IMHO it’s really good and usefully challenges misperceptions. It’s long but it’s worth a second viewing too.
Note to self: don’t fuss about getting narrow tyres, don’t over inflate tyres (deflate a little to get a smooth ride ‘cause a smooth ride is more energy efficient and more comfortable too), don’t ride on noisy tyres (noise is lost energy), do ride on flexible tyres that roll easy (energy not lost in the tyre wall).
I think he makes a great point, that for most riding gains in beating vibration loss beat aero hands down, but feels slower due to lack of vibration.
There's a book by Rene Herse on the subject too, looking at all the science behind it, but getting a copy in the UK is hard.
A novice learning... “the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible.”
Also make sure your hands are resting on the bars without much weight and your arms are slightly bent so that the elbow flexes when you go over a pothole.
This stops you shoulders and neck becoming sore.
Always maintain a pace that is comfortable. If pushing in your going to hit a wall before 100miles is up!
Michelin pro4 are my preferred long ride tyres 28mm come up near 30mm.
I reckon your saddle is (proportionately) much higher than mine. You are about 3" taller than me, say half of that is leg length, so your legs are inch and a half longer than mine .
Your frame is about 1 1/4 inch taller than mine, and you have much more seatpost showing.
I reckon your saddle is (proportionately) much higher than mine. You are about 3" taller than me, say half of that is leg length, so your legs are inch and a half longer than mine .
Your frame is about 1 1/4 inch taller than mine, and you have much more seatpost showing.
I'm also 5'10", the picture, not the best i know, is of my 'tourer' back in 2015. Apart from a bit of dirt its still set up exactly the same today, since June this year its done about a dozen hundred milers, the longest of which, a slightly hilly (1500+m ascent) 106 miler had me riding for @ 8 hours.
I've posted it as it shows we are all different, my bars are relatively 'slammed', there is a lot of seatpost visible and on the hoods i can cruise comfortably on Essex type rolling roads without more than a bit of time related fatigue. You can just about see that my bars are somewhat lower than my saddle, needed in part for my long arms but also as i prefer a more forward tilt to my torso. It will ride 'no hands' with the barbag fitted, its very stable in this set up loaded or not, the tyres are fat for me - 28mm usually run at @ 90psi. I'm not suggesting that the OP should go this 'extreme' but losing some of that bar height willmake it less of a fight to keep the bike upright!
Convention? what's that then? Airnimal Chameleon touring, Orbit Pro hack, Orbit Photon audax, Focus Mares AX tour, Peugeot Carbon sportive, Owen Blower vintage race - all running Tulio's finest!
Hi,
All my bikes are set up the to have same drop at the same reach, ie max reach on the mtb is same as reach on the drop bar hoods.
On the mtb I just bend my elbows to simulate on the bottom of drops.
I too have long arms.
But somethings that has not been mentioned.
Three reasons for getting enough reach-
1) Aero, important as you get near 15 mph.
As others have said.
2) Ergonomics.
If you don't get enough angle between the thigh and thorax, then the muscles in the legs and hip etc do not get pre-stretched for maximum or good performance.
Good performance will also be available at lower exertion levels.
Obviously full efficacy will be at better fitness.
3) Climbing, this becomes very difficult, even getting out of saddle on the flat, as your hands are too close to your body.
Backache........................yep thats what happens if you sit to upright.
Attachments
NA Thinks Just End 2 End Return + Bivvy - Some day Soon I hope You'll Still Find Me At The Top Of A Hill Please forgive the poor Grammar I blame it on my mobile and phat thinkers.
Just a poit about the varied comments. Actually they are much the same. Fair enough. Just consider who you are asking. If you asked the same thing in a forum that is populated by younger riders or those who race you'll get different answers. Not better but different. Ifyou want speed the look at what the racers do. If you want comfort look at someoe else. It is a compromise.
If I raise my saddle significantly, then in order to retain a comfortable bend in my knee at the bottom of the stroke, I have to pedal toe down.
Will somebody please tell me why this is an advantage?
The reason for the "comfortable" bend is so that you can keep control of the rate of extension of the knee at the bottom of the stroke. If you can't control the rate of extension of the knee, you run the risk of over-extension.
If you "bounce" at high cadence (downhill on fixed) or you find high cadence uncomfortable, the rate of extension of the knee at the bottom of the stroke may be un-controlled.
NATURAL ANKLING wrote: ↑21 Nov 2021, 1:45am
Backache........................yep thats what happens if you sit to upright.
But only if you don't make other corresponding changes - such as to reduce the reach of the handlebars or the angle of the saddle..
...many bicycle riders in Europe, Asia and Africa ride in an upright position without any discomfort at all
+1 to a proper, regular service. Not only doese it give peace of mind, a smooth running drive train and well adjusted brakes really does improve the performance of a bike, as does properly inflated tyres.
Basically, don't do it. It's a touring bike, go touring at your own pace. Give up these foolish ideas of pedalling vast distances in few hours into glorious Essex. You're being seduced by the roadies.
Book a couple of Travelodges and have a weekend tour of God's chosen county. You know it makes sense.
004 by 531colin, on Flickr
foot level on bottom pedal by 531colin, on Flickr
