jam05 wrote:It's definitely worth getting a light, attached to the dynohub, that also has a standlight so that when you stop, you are also visible. The standlight won't help you see very much though (although a little bit).
The standlight on my IQ fly is brighter than many main cycle lights I've owned! It's good enough to put my bike away in the dark with. Also get a rear light with standlight too that way you've got around the chief issue people say about dynamos ("don't the lights go off when you stop?"). However a new problem emerges in that if you park it outside say a pub someone will seek you out to tell you that you've left your lights on! Kind yes but it can get a little tedious!
"Marriage is a wonderful invention; but then again so is the bicycle puncture repair kit." - Billy Connolly
I have a SON 28, a SON-XS for the Brompton and a new Shimano DH-3N80 (couldn't find it in the UK - try roseversand.de). This latest Shimano hub is much lighter than the SON and appears to have less resistance with the lights off. It's also half the price.
rogerzilla wrote:I have a SON 28, a SON-XS for the Brompton and a new Shimano DH-3N80 (couldn't find it in the UK - try roseversand.de). This latest Shimano hub is much lighter than the SON and appears to have less resistance with the lights off. It's also half the price.
You can't get a 3N80 in the UK 'cos Madison don't import them. Presumably we must use up their 3N71's first. Or you can buy them in Germany like Roger and I. It's a shame I can't find an online supplier in Germany who sells the cable routing kits for SKS mudguards too.
Because it came with the bike, I've just started using a bottle dyno (Nordlicht 2000) for the first time. Impressed in the dry - but not in the wet when simply does not illuminate.
Anyone know if the metal roller sold by sjs an improvement over the rubber one?
And/or tyres with a specific dynamo track?
The price of hub dynos seems a bit excessive for my needs - I just need to be seen on dark/damp mornings and cheap LEDs pretty much fit that requirement.
djnotts wrote:Because it came with the bike, I've just started using a bottle dyno (Nordlicht 2000) for the first time. Impressed in the dry - but not in the wet when simply does not illuminate. Anyone know if the metal roller sold by sjs an improvement over the rubber one? And/or tyres with a specific dynamo track? .
I'm afraid I've heard of lots of complaints from Nordlicht users of poor wet performance. I don't know whether the steel roller improves it, you may be throwing good money after bad.
I use an AXA HR bottle (Spa Cycles ) & never get wet weather problems, even going through farmyard slurry. The Busch & Mueller Dymotec performs well also ( it's even got a spring pressure adjuster so if it slips you can increase the spring loading).
Most touring tyres with a German/Dutch pedigree have a good dynamo track (Continental, Schwalbe, Vredestein ). Italian & French tend not to.
"may be throwing good money after bad" not really! Came on a bike that after ebaying the saddle that was fitted cost me a net 6 quid! So the dynamo and lights (maybe 3 hours use) stand me at a round nothing (in fact could probably sell the set up for a tenner and be in front!). A few quid to try a steel roller no big deal.
fatboy wrote:Also get a rear light with standlight too that way you've got around the chief issue people say about dynamos ("don't the lights go off when you stop?"). However a new problem emerges in that if you park it outside say a pub someone will seek you out to tell you that you've left your lights on! Kind yes but it can get a little tedious!
I once had a B+M 4D-lite Plus rear light that had a couple of contacts on the outside that you could short with a key or something to drain the capacitor, and so avoid that "problem".
I have been running a sanyo bb dynapower to operate a tail globe and iq fly head light the iq really improves the efficiency of the dynamo at around 5 kmh i have full brightness as to running a globe where you need 15 or more ks an hour to get enough light. The only problem I've encountered is riding on dirt trails in the wet the mud tends to get stuck on the surface of the dynamo making it bounce a bit and have to stop and clean it.
So the decision to upgrade to a son hub am still waiting on wheel to be built but from all the reviews I'd say it is going to be worth the wait.
also anyone thinking of running a halogen globe they need an 8 pole dyno on a 4 pole they blow quick they dont seem to like the ac of a 4 pole.
An easy test is to count the grabs on the rotation 4 pulses = 4 poles and 8 = 8 poles.
I thought those old Sanyos all died years ago. I used to favour BB roller dynamos and have some old Soubitez ones in my junk box (1 has survived on my ex's bike for 15 years now - but then it came with ball bearings you could get at). I thought the best BBRD was the Union 8601 which has kept working regularly for the last 14 years. I also have SON dynamos on two bikes and the older has been in daily use (dark seasons) for 10 years now. The newer has done good service for two. I wholeheartedly recommend the SON if you can justify the cost - particularly with the B&M LED headlight
treborfifty8 wrote:I have been running a sanyo bb dynapower to operate a tail globe and iq fly head light the iq really improves the efficiency of the dynamo at around 5 kmh i have full brightness as to running a globe where you need 15 or more ks an hour to get enough light. The only problem I've encountered is riding on dirt trails in the wet the mud tends to get stuck on the surface of the dynamo making it bounce a bit and have to stop and clean it. So the decision to upgrade to a son hub am still waiting on wheel to be built but from all the reviews I'd say it is going to be worth the wait.
also anyone thinking of running a halogen globe they need an 8 pole dyno on a 4 pole they blow quick they dont seem to like the ac of a 4 pole. An easy test is to count the grabs on the rotation 4 pulses = 4 poles and 8 = 8 poles.
