Breaking in Brooks Saddles

[There's a Plan?]

I just took delivery of my nice new shiny bike, complete with Brooks Team Professional Saddle. It came complete wit ha booklet telling me to apply some stuff. I asked the retailer if this had been applied, he responded "yes, definately". I suspect he would have responded positively to any question posed - is there any way I can tell for sure?

What the booklet didn't tell me was how to break the saddle in. I recall tales of immersion in bottles of red wine followed by 100 + mile rides, and baking the saddle in the sun. Notwithstanding the old wives tales, how best do I make this saddle assume my shape?

TIA

[Mick F]

I've ridden my Brookes Team Pro for about 1000 miles.

From the moment I used it, I fell in love.

All I've done to it, is pollish it with shoe pollish. Why not? The Cherry Blossom people swear by it, they say it's good for all things leather. It's a darn sight cheaper than Froofhide.

When you ride a bike, you don't 'sit' on the saddle - your weight is divided between your hands/arms on the 'bars, your pressure on the pedals, and your bum on the saddle. If your bum aches coz of weight on it, you're not pedalling enough!

My Brookes saddle is wonderful. I used a Maddison G14 for more years than I can remember. It had leather, silicone padding, and looked good. I suffered from numbness and achey bum, I thought that it was 'normal'.

Until I discovered Brookes.

Mick F. Cornwall

[PeterG]

To break it in just ride it. I put a new one on my bike about six weeks ago replacing another one which I'd used for 20+ years (one of the rails broke). It felt a bit odd, but not uncomfortable, at first as the old one had sagged a little but after about a week's commuting (six miles each way) it felt OK. Now, six weeks later, it's really very comfortable. I did spend the first couple of days getting the angle right for me but have ended up with it dead level.

As for treating it I used Proofhide on it every couple of days for a couple of weeks and, after that, once a week. It's important to give the underside a good dollop of the stuff especially if your bike has no mudguards. Carry a plastic bag around and cover the saddle if you leave it in the rain. For the old saddle, I used Proofhide at first until the tin ran out then, like Mick, I used shoe polish every now and then. The idea is not to make it soft -- counter-intuitively a hard saddle is more comfortable provided it fits you.

Best of luck.

[thirdcrank]

I think one problem with Brooks saddles is that the leather seems to vary enormously so one person's experience may not be directly relevant to another's saddle.

I bought a Brooks Professional when they first came out in the early 1960's. In those days it was possible to buy them described as 'pre-treated' or something similar. I went three week's touring the day after I bought it without a problem. That one was stolen and I replaced it, then got it back. So for the last 40 odd years I have juggled the pair about on various bikes.

Also, in the early sixties, I lived for a year in France and had my father send out several Brooks Professionals for French clubmates who could not get them. Most were beautiful leather but one was rock hard, causing all sorts of disappointment.

Several years ago, when Brooks were going through one of their crises, I bought two more from St JSC in anticipation of the first two breaking up. Although the new ones were stamped 'pre-softened' they were and remain rock hard. I cannot imagine them softening in a million years of riding. (A rail recently broke on one of my originals so I am having to try.) In the meantime, I bought a sprung Brooks saddle (apparently intended for mountain biking!) in a CTC shop clearance sale at York Rally about five years ago. The leather was the same beautiful supple material used in my first two saddles. Similarly, over the years I have seen B 17s which seemed excellent and others which seemed to be made out of cardboard. So, the answer seems to be to try to select a supple one before you buy it, which I appreciate is useless if you already have a rock-hard one, or, like me, you have two. Mick Agar

[jb]

I bought one with the big rivets years ago. It was and remains harder than diamond. I suffered that saddle for years thinking it must break in sooner or later – but it never did, not even with half the counties supply of pig fat on it. Later when I bought a new B17 I could not believe how quickly it became the most comfortable saddle I'd ever ridden, it was a revelation. ‘And’ when that eventually reached the end of its stretch (something the old saddle never even hinted at needing) the replacement was great from day one.

‘So’

The moral is – if you get a bad-un, cut your loses and get a new one, its not worth the suffering just for twenty odd quid.

[There's a Plan?]

The cheapest I ever saw one is £45 plus carriage.

[jb]

Must have got a bargain - mind you there on Bike+ for £31.50

[EssexMan]

Just polish it , saddle soap, beeswax, etc. Leather is skin and it needs oilwax. My personal preference is beeswax, but it does cost money and requires elbow work to get it to soften and work into the leather. It will soften with time and riding into the perfect shape for your bum.

The saddle needs oilingwaxing regularly for a long and soft life else it dries, splits and cracks like my first brooks did thru total lack of care.

I should imagine boiling in red wine would destroy it. That said, you can soften ejuvenate heavy leather by warming in oil but it requires a steady low heat and you have to trial it with offcuts from the original piece to ensure it will take it.

[Mick F]

My Brookes Team Pro (Chrome rails) came from Spa Cycles of Harrogate (www.spacycles.co.uk) for £45 + £3 P+P. It was the cheapest I could find. Most other places were asking more the £60!

Mine's as hard as nails - but I NEVER get a sore or achey bum!

Mick F. Cornwall

[Mick F]

If anyone has trouble with a Brookes, try this: http://sheldonbrown.com/real-man.html

Mick F. Cornwall

[blackie]

Mick F.
I believe I got my info from Sheldon Brown. I am not saying this is right, or for anyone to do it. I am sure there are plenty that will disagree but it worked for me. I took advice and made a baco foil well around the saddle, filled it with neatsfoot and soaked it for a while. I then rode rode about 60 miles on it straight away while it was drying. This really did the trick, did not weaken or soften the saddle but broke it in in a matter of one ride. Perhaps I was lucky and this method might not work for the next one. It is just a method to consider. Paul Basildon

[mike]

I have just bought a brooks b17 saddle,In the past I have owned a brooks 66 for my work bike, I have also owned a brooks proff, I have yet to be confortable with the last two after any distance cycled.
I have just returned from a 50 mile ride and although of a mature age I can cope with the distance but after approx 20 miles my bum gets sore even though wearing padded licra shorts I am really thinking of forsaking brooks you cant say I haven't tried. by the way I have done about 80 miles on this saddle.
Mike Green

[blackie]

Mike try giving the soaking a go. If you really are thinking of giving up on Brooks you have nothing to lose.

[TJ]

It's funny how saddles suit some and not others. I have a Brooks B17 on one of my bikes which has been comfortable from day1.

[mike]

Thanks blackie but where do you get the neadsfoot oil from?

mike